SLC Build (Orange Monster)
#1
SLC Build (Orange Monster)
Okay, So I'm finally starting to get some time to do the build. Here are the stats for the build
- SLC with street tail
- 6.2 (L92)
- I've already got the LS3 Intake.
- Batwing Oil Pan
- LS3 Fuel Rail
- (Will be deleting DOD but keeping VVT)
- (upgrading valvetrain)
- (May do a stroker depending on other finances)
- (P&P headwork possible)
- G50/20 6-speed Porsch Transaxle
Here are some pictures to get you guess started, just a few now, will take more later.
3Feb2015 (1)
3Feb2015 (2)
#3
Here are the things I've done so far for the build (over the past few months with the limited time I have
Brakes/Pedals
1. Ran/Secured hard brake/clutch lines to front and rear of car.
a. Involved drilling holes and tapping mount points for brackets
2. Attached steel braided lines from hardlines to calipers
3. Build and Secure Tilton Pedal assembly
a. You need to shorten the MC rod by an inch for the clutch.
b. Installed all 3 master cylinders to pedal assembly (all three inside car)
c. Tapped floorboard and secured pedal to floor
d. Cut/modify Corvette C6 DBW pedal and attach with rod to Tilton Accel Pedal
e. Drilled/Tapped firewall and mounted DBW pedal assembly.
3. Secured All Three Brake and Clutch Reserviors to Radiator Support/Crash Box
Body
1. Cut Holes for Door Handles (uses Miata outside handles)
2. Cut Rear Vent Holes (will have pictures later)
3. Fabricate Mounting hardware/points for rear tail lights
- Modified Dakota (2004 IIRC) taillights to fit (trimmed corner and turned 90 degrees)
4. Cut Access holes for Fuel Filler
5. Cut Side Air Vents
6. Cut holes for Headlights (though I might change/modify the design on this one,, you'll see later)
I have a lot more that I've done, but will have to write it up when I'm not at work...lol
Brakes/Pedals
1. Ran/Secured hard brake/clutch lines to front and rear of car.
a. Involved drilling holes and tapping mount points for brackets
2. Attached steel braided lines from hardlines to calipers
3. Build and Secure Tilton Pedal assembly
a. You need to shorten the MC rod by an inch for the clutch.
b. Installed all 3 master cylinders to pedal assembly (all three inside car)
c. Tapped floorboard and secured pedal to floor
d. Cut/modify Corvette C6 DBW pedal and attach with rod to Tilton Accel Pedal
e. Drilled/Tapped firewall and mounted DBW pedal assembly.
3. Secured All Three Brake and Clutch Reserviors to Radiator Support/Crash Box
Body
1. Cut Holes for Door Handles (uses Miata outside handles)
2. Cut Rear Vent Holes (will have pictures later)
3. Fabricate Mounting hardware/points for rear tail lights
- Modified Dakota (2004 IIRC) taillights to fit (trimmed corner and turned 90 degrees)
4. Cut Access holes for Fuel Filler
5. Cut Side Air Vents
6. Cut holes for Headlights (though I might change/modify the design on this one,, you'll see later)
I have a lot more that I've done, but will have to write it up when I'm not at work...lol
Last edited by guitaraholic; 02-06-2015 at 09:57 AM.
#4
I went with the SLC for a few reasons.
1. SLC is about 300-400 hours to build vs 1000-2000 hours. I saw one GTM in person, it looked really good but the guy has had it for 3 years and is still working on it.
2. I believe the SLC in terms of handling and performance is a better platform to start off with. Not saying the GTM cannot be a great peformer, but I think it will take a bit more to get it there.
3. SLC you have more freedom to pick your engine and transaxle, athough for the moment, I went with the typical LS(x) and G50
4. The car definitely grabs your attention.
Cons - NO ROLL UP WINDOWS!, it's the only part about the car I don't like, and maybe later on I might address that (elise doors maybe?), but that is a lot of body and chassis work, and I don't have the time for that right now. I just want to get it up on the road
1. SLC is about 300-400 hours to build vs 1000-2000 hours. I saw one GTM in person, it looked really good but the guy has had it for 3 years and is still working on it.
2. I believe the SLC in terms of handling and performance is a better platform to start off with. Not saying the GTM cannot be a great peformer, but I think it will take a bit more to get it there.
3. SLC you have more freedom to pick your engine and transaxle, athough for the moment, I went with the typical LS(x) and G50
4. The car definitely grabs your attention.
Cons - NO ROLL UP WINDOWS!, it's the only part about the car I don't like, and maybe later on I might address that (elise doors maybe?), but that is a lot of body and chassis work, and I don't have the time for that right now. I just want to get it up on the road
#5
To Modify or Not to Modify the Headlights
I don't mind how the headlights on the car look now,, but I dont' like how they are mounted, nor do I like screwing in to attach the headlight covers. You have to take the actuall HID headlight Socket/Bulb unit, and screw it onto the body, you also have to fabricate a mounting system to the body.
Here is how they look in the "stock configuration"
And Here is how they are mounted
But I was thinking,, what if you used an OEM headlight assembly that I could fabricate a "bucket" from under the bonnet and simply be able to bolt the entire headlight assembly on. The challenge was finding headlights that had enough rake as to follow the body lines of the car, and also well obvious look good. Here is what I found. I'm on the fence about it, but I believe nodges in one direction or another would push me in the right direction
Before you say anything. I just taped it on top to hold it, (no missing with photoshop), the lines match up, and gives an overall general idea how it will look. I'll probably hire a body guy to to this because I can work with Fiberglass, but not comfortable making it look perfect as it would need to being on the outside of the body. Keep in mind, these are free used/damaged ones I got for moch up purposes only. I'll be getting new/updated versions if I go that route.
BTW, can you guess what they are from?
I don't mind how the headlights on the car look now,, but I dont' like how they are mounted, nor do I like screwing in to attach the headlight covers. You have to take the actuall HID headlight Socket/Bulb unit, and screw it onto the body, you also have to fabricate a mounting system to the body.
Here is how they look in the "stock configuration"
And Here is how they are mounted
But I was thinking,, what if you used an OEM headlight assembly that I could fabricate a "bucket" from under the bonnet and simply be able to bolt the entire headlight assembly on. The challenge was finding headlights that had enough rake as to follow the body lines of the car, and also well obvious look good. Here is what I found. I'm on the fence about it, but I believe nodges in one direction or another would push me in the right direction
Before you say anything. I just taped it on top to hold it, (no missing with photoshop), the lines match up, and gives an overall general idea how it will look. I'll probably hire a body guy to to this because I can work with Fiberglass, but not comfortable making it look perfect as it would need to being on the outside of the body. Keep in mind, these are free used/damaged ones I got for moch up purposes only. I'll be getting new/updated versions if I go that route.
BTW, can you guess what they are from?
#7
Trending Topics
#11
6.2 Came out of the 2011 Escalade, I believe that one had DOD(L99 maybe?).
#12
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Andrew
#14
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Andrew
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
I like your thoughts on celica buckets. The way Fran designed that body line though the original helps shape the corner. I think it's going to be a lot of fiberglass work to make it look as good as the rest of the car. Assuming you are keeping the gelcoat? What's the interior plan?
#17
#19
This weekend (Just some small stuff)
- Installed Sparco Fuel Filler Cap (wasn't installed before just moched up)
- Fitted 3 1/2 x 1/2 grade 8 bolts to link crossmember and engine mounts, I still have to drill and secure the crossmember to the chassis.
- Drilled and secured roll cage (took some massaging to get it aligned/symetrical, probably didn't help car has been sitting in a garage for almost 2 years while I've been oversees and things kinda settled. Did get all holes drilled and symetrical (though one side off by a little less than 1/8 on the front, grrrr,).
- Installed shorter grade 8 bolts and smaller spacers for steering wheel colum. This raised the steering wheel up a bit, as it was right at your knees before.
- Ran/secured fuel hard line from top of fuel tank to firewall (had to bend the line myself and secure to firewall)
- (Interal Fuel Pump Mod) Fabricated 1/4" thick alluminum access hole cap for fuel pump. I also drilled the hole for the plate and will be securing them with rivet butt plates. Going to need to bring tank to a welder sometime in the next week or two to have the plate welded to top of tank.
(Will post pictures a little later today)
- Installed Sparco Fuel Filler Cap (wasn't installed before just moched up)
- Fitted 3 1/2 x 1/2 grade 8 bolts to link crossmember and engine mounts, I still have to drill and secure the crossmember to the chassis.
- Drilled and secured roll cage (took some massaging to get it aligned/symetrical, probably didn't help car has been sitting in a garage for almost 2 years while I've been oversees and things kinda settled. Did get all holes drilled and symetrical (though one side off by a little less than 1/8 on the front, grrrr,).
- Installed shorter grade 8 bolts and smaller spacers for steering wheel colum. This raised the steering wheel up a bit, as it was right at your knees before.
- Ran/secured fuel hard line from top of fuel tank to firewall (had to bend the line myself and secure to firewall)
- (Interal Fuel Pump Mod) Fabricated 1/4" thick alluminum access hole cap for fuel pump. I also drilled the hole for the plate and will be securing them with rivet butt plates. Going to need to bring tank to a welder sometime in the next week or two to have the plate welded to top of tank.
(Will post pictures a little later today)
#20
I like your thoughts on celica buckets. The way Fran designed that body line though the original helps shape the corner. I think it's going to be a lot of fiberglass work to make it look as good as the rest of the car. Assuming you are keeping the gelcoat? What's the interior plan?
As for the interior, I was thinking something simple yet OEM "ish" looking. Going with black/carbon fiber (got the CF interior upgrade), and some brushed aluminum trimming in a few places.