Isolde

iTrader: (4)

This will be a slow thread, but I'm going to show my efforts to make my own. Input and questions welcome.
I have a pair of '01 4.8L LR4s, and I want one in my '94 Camaro. The truck pan I modified for my '86 Camaro is likely to prove nowhere near fitting, and I'd rather not buy a '98-up LS1 crossmember either. I may "clearance" the 3.4L crossmember if it proves necessary. Anything to save a dollar.
The '98-up pans are $220+, and I see no good reason why, especially when there are so many available.
I ordered a new pan gasket, $23+ shipping, and I cheated a little bit by ordering a new in-pan pickup tube, or suction screen, or whatever you like to call it, for $43, delivered.
Then I spent $36 on 2 sheets of mild steel. One is quarter inch by 12 inches by 24 inches, the other is eighth inch by10 inches by 42 inches.
Not sure yet about the drain plug or oil filter, probably remote-mount the filter.
I'm not going to count the cost of the drill, but I'll count the cost of any and all drill bits used for this. Likewise jigsaw blades but not my jigsaw, cutting discs but not my angle grinder, welding supplies but not my welder.
Sure, this seems a bit heavy, I'll weigh the finished result.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

How about counting the value of your time? What about the capital expenditure on a welder and the time and metal it takes to practice (if you don't already have one or know how to use it)?

I bet when you add it all up, you are better off just buying the parts that already fit and save yourself a bunch of trouble. Having said all that, I am in for some fabrication mayhem.

Andrew

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

Is this going into a rock crawler?

Theres some items that I just cant be bothered to build. This is one item. Sub'd for progress.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Are you going to make a complete lil pan from scratch ? And out of the steel metal ?..

I have seen and have sold 98+ F-Body pan for $125-$150... if you could score one in that range
You will be ahead of the game.
Will be watching this thread to see what develops.
BC

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

When I don't have a family to spend my free time with, and there's no way available to me to earn more money during that free time, then I can use that time for this, and count my labor as free. I enjoy making things, it doesn't feel like work. So my time is worth nothing.
I checked ads on several websites, including here and ebay, $220 was the cheapest.
I have the GMPP retrofit musclecar oilpan kit, I test installed it once, in my s-10, now I'm scrapping the S-10 so I'm thinking about trying to sell my GMPP pan kit for half the going rate for new.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I don't even recall if the front kmember for the 3400 is the same as the LT1. But IIRC, the 94 LT1 pan is darn near identical dimensions as the 86 LB9 pan, so I'd at least bother test fitting it. That said, I'd like to see the modded pan for the 86. P.S. I love working on the top of my recycle / trash bins for the extra high work surface too.

Andy1

Isolde,

How are you going to ensure flatness of the mating surface of the pan after you finish welding it up? You know it won't be flat when you're done. At minimum, I'd suggest you get it Blanchard ground.

Andy1

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

In to watch some sparks fly.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

It will help a great deal if he bolts the flange to the motor while welding. If done properly I don't see it being too big of a deal with that gm gasket.

tfi racing

iTrader: (2)

This is going to be a lot of fun,please take lots of pictures of your progress and keep us posted!

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

My modified truck pan is still an inch deeper at the front than the '98-'02 Z28 pan. Pics of my progress on that pan are scattered through the first 3 pages of this thread: http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-l...-choosing.html

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

This is the plan. One of my 4.8s is mostly apart, on my engine stand, for ring gapping, head porting, and I was going to do rod bolts. But since I can't afford a custom tune, required for more than 5.6 psi of boost on stock heads and stock cam, I don't need the rod bolts nor the rings gapped. So I sold the ARPs. The porting is mostly done, so now it just needs another stock '01 4.8L cam to replace the one I trashed in favor of the LS9 cam I sold.
I expect the heat of welding to destroy the gasket, so I've been thinking about doing the welding without the tube or gasket in place. Tack everything together, then weld the pan floor, then the vertical velds, and do the flange last.
Today I'll center punch all the bolt holes,so the drill doesn't wander. I hope to start the drilling, if I can make time.

68maroSam

iTrader: (1)

Are you migging or tigging this together?

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

I can Mig, but here, the "Argon" bottle isn't legal in a residential garage. So stick welding it is. Noone's ever been willing to teach me Tigging for free, so to heck with Tig.

68maroSam

iTrader: (1)

Wow, I didn't know they regulate where Argon can be. Hope that doesn't happen to my area. I am just over the mountain from you. In this situation my suggestion is tig is your best tool to use, but I understand you use what you have. If you want to pm me, I can offer up my wire feed mig or tig. You would have to use them at my place and all I ask is to pitch in for the consumables. These bottles are expensive to refill and the wire isn't much cheaper. I will gladly teach you what I know about tigging, but I am somewhat a beginner myself.

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

Funny thing is, Argon is an inert gas, it can't burn / explode. I think the problem is the cylinder itself. You know what happens if the valve gets knocked off.
Anyway, I got paid to learn Mig, then I got paid to learn stick. Then I had my ugly welds tested, and they passed. So I no longer care how my welds look. That's what grinding, JB Kwik, and paint are for, as I see it. I've fabbed plenty of hitches, none has ever cracked a weld, AFAIK.
Your offer is very kind, so I appreciate it, but I'll decline for now.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

If you get a nice smooth weld with stick I will be amazed and my hat is off to you. To me stick welding is for oil rigs and heavy equipment, not for precise welds and appearance.

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

The first rule of stick welding is cut the sticks in half. I like a quarter length for initial tacking.

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

I'm about half done, pics soon.

Isolde

iTrader: (4)