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5.3 vega swap final touches and questions

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Old 10-14-2015, 01:44 PM
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Default 5.3 vega swap final touches and questions

Finishing up the vega. A few more things before I can run the motor. It's a 5.3 from a 04 Silverado. The entire car is wired. The only thing left to wire is the alternator.

Currently the alternator is just bolted on not wires. The 4 pin plug has only two of the centre wires in it. I believe these run to the computer. Pin 15 and pin 75. Can someone verify?

The positive stud on the rear of the alternator has about 10 inches of wire hanging off of it. Unsure if I can continue this wire or run a new one entirely.
My main question is should this alternator charge wire go directly to the battery or to the horn relay or to the power distribution stud that powers the whole car? I have read so many different ways to do it. Can I use 10 gauge wire and 14 gauge fusible links. Many places say to go bigger but mad electrical says 10 is enough.

The alternator is the stock unit from the 5.3. The car has intellitronix digital gauges, single speed crown Victoria electric fan, headlight relays, Walbro 255 pump, lights, wipers and that's about it for electrical. I am not sure what the stock 5.3 alternator rating is but it should be enough.

The other thing I am not sure about is the serpentine belt routing. Does it matter which side of the water pump the belt contacts.
Old 10-14-2015, 01:58 PM
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The Silverado alternator runs more accessories in the truck than you have in your car, so I can only assume that it will be plenty adequate.

For the alternator power wire... I don't know for sure about where it goes, but everything I have heard says to use the biggest gauge of wire possible.

2004 Silverado belt diagram:

Old 10-14-2015, 02:04 PM
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the wire off the alt stud should run to the battery. 10ga is enough. I ran mine to the starter stud then used a 2ga cable from the stud to the battery and it works fine.

You are correct on the alt plug.
Old 10-14-2015, 02:06 PM
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It's not allowing me to post pictures but I can't run it like the stock configuration because the way the car is setup I had to turn the lower thermostat housing 180 degrees so it points toward the crank opposed to the fender. That means the lower rad hose ends up right where the belt runs from the crank to the tensioner. The only way it looks like it can work is if the belt comes on the opposite side of the water pump but I am not sure if that would spin the pump the wrong way.

I have it drawn up wish I could upload the picture
Old 10-14-2015, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by aggie91
the wire off the alt stud should run to the battery. 10ga is enough. I ran mine to the starter stud then used a 2ga cable from the stud to the battery and it works fine.

You are correct on the alt plug.
Thanks for the reply. Did you run 10 gauge wire using the 5.3 alternator also did you use fusible links on each end of the wire if so what size?
Old 10-14-2015, 02:12 PM
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As long as the water pump is spinning opposite of the crank, you should be fine.
Old 10-14-2015, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 72vega383
Thanks for the reply. Did you run 10 gauge wire using the 5.3 alternator also did you use fusible links on each end of the wire if so what size?
Yes, I used 10ga. I did not use a fusible link. A 14ga fusible link would be correct to use. Only use it on the battery end.
Old 10-15-2015, 08:03 AM
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I was doing some more reading and madelectrical recommends going from alternator to a power distribution point instead of direct to the battery. So your not charging the battery only maintaining it and the cars electrical system is actually running off the 14 volts of the alternator. Does that make any sense doing it this way. I would think I would add a fusible link at the alternator end?
Old 10-15-2015, 08:45 AM
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Ok, some facts....it's easier to correct the thermostat housing than relocate alt.
Also the alternator doesn't care which direction it rotates, next if it was controlled by the PCM/ecm without the bcm, then wire it up. Just make sure your donor vehicle didn't use any other power monitoring devices like power moding/Vicm Etc. Then rock on, it'll be fine.
Make some tire smoke.
Old 10-15-2015, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bbtech
Ok, some facts....it's easier to correct the thermostat housing than relocate alt.
Also the alternator doesn't care which direction it rotates, next if it was controlled by the PCM/ecm without the bcm, then wire it up. Just make sure your donor vehicle didn't use any other power monitoring devices like power moding/Vicm Etc. Then rock on, it'll be fine.
Make some tire smoke.
Sorry if my post was a little difficult to understand. I may have not worded it correctly.

I was asking about the rotation of the water pump (not the alternator) I know it needs to turn opposite of the crank. I am just not sure if the way I have the belt routed if it will spin the right way.

As for the alternator I checked the part number and it came up as a ad244 alternator the plug is a 4 pin with only the 2 centre wires. I don't think I want to use the PCM to control the alternator due to the fact that I would like to run a light on the dash so I know if it's stops charging. My plan is to run a 10 gauge wire with a 14 awg fusible link from the alternator post to the main power distribution on the car. Anyone know exactly how to wire the alt itself?
Old 10-15-2015, 10:46 AM
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If the smooth side of the belt is on the water pump pulley you are all set. Oh, use photobucket for pictures.

Last edited by Alwhite00; 10-15-2015 at 10:56 AM.
Old 10-15-2015, 02:28 PM
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Thanks Alwhite00 that clears it up for the water pump.

I was just at the local "big truck" supply store and was looking at some wire it's actually pretty well priced. In that case I am not gonna mess around with the 10 gauge. I can get a 25 foot roll of 6 gauge for about 40 bucks. I cannot find fusible link anywhere though so my thoughts are.

Run 6awg from alternator output to one side of a 150 amp mega fuse.about 10 feet of wire.

Then from the other side of the fuse run two 6awg wires.
-One to the battery.
-Second to the main power distribution.

Then a 2awg from the battery to the starter about 6 feet.

My thinking is that if the charge wire ever shorts or there is any problem the 150 amp mega fuse will blow cutting power off to the battery and the entire cars electrical system. Without causing any damage. Just blow the fuse.

If you think this will work let me know. I think 6 awg should be plenty but I can get 4 if it's really needed.

Last edited by 72vega383; 10-15-2015 at 05:04 PM.
Old 10-15-2015, 05:02 PM
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Anything I should do differently?
Old 10-15-2015, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 72vega383

As for the alternator I checked the part number and it came up as a ad244 alternator the plug is a 4 pin with only the 2 centre wires. I don't think I want to use the PCM to control the alternator due to the fact that I would like to run a light on the dash so I know if it's stops charging. My plan is to run a 10 gauge wire with a 14 awg fusible link from the alternator post to the main power distribution on the car. Anyone know exactly how to wire the alt itself?
Hook your charge indicator light to the L or I terminal of the alternator & the S terminal of the alternator to the battery post of the alternator.

Russ Kemp
Old 10-16-2015, 08:23 AM
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Look up alternator bible on pirate4x4.com
You should find all you need for proper wiring.



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