lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Yes the 5th gen. module drops right in, much cleaner install no external fuel pressure regulator and return line, which also means less money and parts and less chances for leaks, you usually can't beat oem designed and tested systems, you remove the float arm from the 5th gen. module and toss it in the scrap bin, it is just clipped on, as it is a different ohm setting than your gauges, unless you are using a 5th gen. dash module, and the Ricks tank has a fuel level sender that is in a specific ohm range depending on your gauge it is in a separate opening next to the fuel module.

The fuel module has a filter and regulator built in, look at ryeguys thread he did a nice write up on converting the 5th gen. module or go to the vaporworx website they explain how to use the 5th gen. module, on the tank go to Ricks Tanks website you can buy just the tank bare or turn key they offer them in stamped steel (restomod series) at reasonable prices or stainless steel at a bit more money. I'm local to Ricks Tanks so I'm spoiled on their service, I've used about 5 of their tanks and I can say this is definitely a case where you get what you pay for, as far as ease of installation, fit, quality, and works like a oem set up.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Google:
Ricks Tanks Restomod
The part number for fbodys is #050910 that is for a bare tank, call them and ask for Hector 915-760-4388 he will give you all the options depending on your engine and vehicle setup.

CamaroLance

I'm definitely going the way you suggested. I agree you can't beat an original tested part. The question I have is how you hook up the fittings if I'm using a
-6AN? I'm so happy I wrote on this thread and found out about this tank. Thanks a lot... it's worth it to write in! I included a picture of the float assembly that I looked up. Curious to know if that's the correct one? If so how do you hook up those lines? So nice to have a little knowledge of what's going on before I call a vendor up and feel like I don't know what I'm talking about so I appreciate the response and I wasn't aware they made this tank.



You mention the gas filter is included in the pump unit...we never have to worry about changing it?

Thanks in advance for your response. I'm excited to get started in this next phase!

CamaroLance

Ryeguy2006a...I am trying to google that part # you posted a picture of for the fuel pump sending unit and I am not coming up with anything. Is there a brand name of the part # 323-02077?

Thanks in advance.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

To connect a 6an line you need the Earls fitting part# AT991966ERL
For your fuel level sending unit it sits in a separate hole next to the fuel module there are different sending units depending on the fuel gauge you will be using, if stock gauges on a 67 camaro it is a 90 ohm sending unit, buy the one from resto mod they are the most accurate and made for your specific tank vs. buying one of those one size fits all eBay ones.

The fuel filter is on the fuel pump that is in the fuel module, they will last as long as the pump lasts and are considered non serviceable, meaning when your pump goes out and you replace the fuel module at that time it will come with a new filter, those pumps will last 150k miles no problem. "Google" or "you tube" "67 68 69 Camaro restomod fuel tank" or "Ricks Tanks restomod" there are some good tutorials on Ricks Tanks products.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I wished I had a better answer for you, but when I first got the pump I searched the same part number and didn't come up with anything. I wanted to make sure that it was actually from a V8 model and not the V6 as they were different. I am not sure where that salvage yard came up with that part number on the tag I took a picture of. Your best bet is searching on someplace like RockAuto and getting the AC Delco part number for that fuel pump assembly.

And for what it's worth you may want to keep an eye out on eBay for a low mileage take out like mine. I think the OEM pumps new are right around $300, and I got mine for $59 bucks shipped.

RixTrix

Swirl pot?

tracetrimble

I'm all about value with my build as well. Here's what I did. I scored a Tanks Inc setup off CL cheap, and ran stock nylon tubing all the way to the front. It was cheap, looks clean, and no concerns with fumes. I haven't fired it up yet, but it won't be long.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...67-camaro.html

CamaroLance

lizeec..thanks for replying. I contacted Hector @ Ricks's tanks. He's telling me the price for everything is a little over $1000. The tank itself is $400 I'm trying to understand how much everything else stuffed into the tank is costing. I mean $400 for the tank so $600 for a pump and sending unit? That's a lot of cheddar just to spend on the gas tank not including the line going up to the rail. No doubt it's probably the best option just don't know if I can spend that much. tracetrimble...thanks for the link you sent. I found some interesting info on that.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

They can get expensive quick, but that is a turn key set up, I'm sure a good chunk of that money is a NEW fuel module, if you have some time on your hands and are resourceful you can source a used fuel module for cheap, even on this forum there is a 5th gen. parts for sale classifieds section, or on other camaro forums, like ryeguy said he bought his for $59.00

I bought mine on a camaro forum complete 10k mile take out fuel module had all the wiring and plugs and lock ring shipped to my door for $85.00, a lot of the camaro guys when they go forced induction or very high horsepower they take out their stock stuff. I sourced the 4th gen. pressure regulator on Amazon $45.00 the adaptor from vaporworx for like $15.00, Earls 6an adaptor was like $30.00, fuel module o-ring $10.00, sending unit $115.00 you can get out the door for around $700.00

The fuel line to the rail would be the same cost for any fuel tank you decide on, but you don't need the external fuel pressure regulator and quick disconnect fittings which will run you another $100-$125 and you don't need a return fuel line and fittings.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

I would be willing to bet that when Rick's priced out that tank for you they also included the PWM module along with the pump. PWM is basically a way to electronically regulate the 58psi. The PWM units are great, but not very budget friendly.

Another great option is the fuel recess tray RetroWorx that Vaporworx sells. That is a piece that you would have to weld into your stock tank, but gives you a way to mount your fuel pump and it also comes with the adapter for the 4th gen FPR.

https://www.vaporworx.com/product/rwtak/

CamaroLance

All this talk about tanks and sending units and no one's mentioned venting. Today I called back Hector @ Ricks. I spoke to him and it only includes Gen 5 fuel pump not computer controlled. It doesn't include a vapor canister which is for that port on the side of the tank. I still would need a hose & venting. What are you guys doing for venting? How are you venting the tank? If I chose this option, I'm looking at closer to $1200 now which is a lot more than I will be willing to spend on all this. Venting is really important.

TomM

iTrader: (56)

Hector's tank uses a 5th Gen fuel module, with a 4th gen regulator and venturi installed in the module to self regulate the pressure to 58 PSI. It includes a fuel sending unit, wiring harness for the module, o-ring and all, and you can also get the corner pickups if desired.

In addition, they offer the ZL1 fuel module installed. You would need to contact Carl Casanova (yes, his real name) to get the Vaporworxs PWM. You really only need this if you are running a boosted application. It comes as a complete system, including PWM, pressure sender, fittings and wiring. Slick piece, I am using one on my blower car...

The Rick's tank also has a 1/4" NPT fitting for a vent line. Any number of ways to do that, from a simple fuel filter to the II-Much charcoal vent canister.

Your original question is the "best" gas tank to use, well IMO, Rick's is it. I have installed 5 of them and have had no fuel starvation issues at all.

Here are some pictures of the vent setup with the II-Much vent installed....















T,

tracetrimble

Venting... gas caps on first gens are vented, and it's hard to locate a vent/rollover valve above it. I am capping the vent port, and relying on the gas cap.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

X2, I was going to rely on the vented gas cap.

will69camaro

iTrader: (19)

So two posts above is what I was getting at, if you're asking for the best, it's Ricks. No question. With the Vaporworx setup.

Are there cheaper solutions? definitely. But there are sacrifices with each.

I'm running a ricks with Dual CTS-V pumps and vaporworx "pressureworx" controller to manage the fuel pressure with MAP pressure and keep it PWM. Second pump is triggered off a Holley Dominator output. Should be a trick setup and support 1200+hp and have stock car performance for reliability.

Motown 454

iTrader: (15)

I have the Ricks tank with a single CTS V fuel pump with Carls vaporworx "pressureworx" system on my LSA/4l85 drive train in my 69. It's not running yet but Carls system is well made.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

On my 5 tanks from Ricks that I have used on projects I just capped the 1/8 NPT fitting in the back and used vented fuel caps, never had an issue with fuel vapors on my cars and they are always in garages.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

What a great thread for info!

JoeNova

I run a Rick's pro-touring tank with billet hat and dual 340 lph pumps.
All said and done, I have $1400 in the setup.

If I built anything that could get by with a single pump, the $500 tanks-inc solution is without a doubt the way I would go.