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who has modified their own ls1 harness?

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Old 04-19-2005, 01:03 AM
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Default who has modified their own ls1 harness?

I have done several efi conversions on ford mustang EFI and it is really easy. All i had to do was look at the wiring diagram and i had it running in a couple of days.

I would really prefer to do my own harness if it is possible. The harness is out of a 99 Z28. so does anyone have any pointers or information. where can i get a wiring diagram? I got the mustang diagram from the local library but the book only goes up to 91

any wiring diagrams or pin out information would be great
thanks
chris
Old 04-19-2005, 04:25 AM
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yeah, its not hard at all, its literally like 6 wires to get it running, and 12 to get her on the road (without smog BS)

http://payne.stanford.edu/LS1-FD-links.htm

There are a bunch of links with wiring info, but it is for a RX7, so some of the data is not important to you.

Good luck with the swap!
Old 04-19-2005, 02:26 PM
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I have. What's your email address. I can email you what you'll need.

-Dave
Old 04-19-2005, 02:58 PM
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heres some bits from some PMs i had with a friend on another board:







************************************************** ******

what year LS1 is it? i only know the 99-02 wiring, not the 98 wiring (the freak year.. lol)



these are all the connector pinouts: http://66.83.134.202/travis/LS1swap/...connectors.txt


let me take a min to explain what that means (i know i wish someone did that for me first.. lol)


when you get a pullout that has the harness on the car, everything is connected except:

3 connectors that were underhood. (named C100,C101,C105)
2 connectors that used to connect under the dash (220,230)


so these 5 connectors are teh ONLY wires we're worred about.

in a nutshell... give ignition power to the pink wires, constant power to the orange ones, take off VATS, and it runs.

the other wires you hook up are just gauge wires, reverse lights, ect.... nothing hard.

its ALMOST a stand alone harness already... only diff is it will have a couple extra wires left after its hooked up.. not a big deal..


****** wrote on 04-15-2005 01:22 PM:
Also, a tach adapter is need to change the signal for the stock tach, correct?
correct. you can get them off ebay cheap.



also, i bought HPtuners... you will either need HPtuners, or have your PCM flashed to remove the trouble codes and VATS.... if you buy HPtuners, this is NOT hard to do.. i could give you a step by step on doing it easily.... but HPtuners is a little pricy. a tune is a cheaper route, but HPtuners gives you the scanner thats very useful.. along with the ability to change stuff at will... your call on that.


*********************

biggest tip i can tell ya on buying one:
avoid 98 Fbod engines and corvette motors. the 'vette motor is WORSE for ya since it requires switching almost everything "vette specific" to fbod specs... the 98 was a oddball year with a diffrent wiring harness (less support and help online) and a PCM that just isnt as good.... 99+ fbody engines only.

VATS works like this on 3rd gens:
you put the key with the "chip" in.
the "chip" is just a resistor. but it has to be the right one.

when the correct resistor is in:
the VATS module on your thirdgen does two things.




enables the starter relay.. this allows the engine to turn over

sends a signal to the ECM.. this signal is a constant pulse at a specific frequency. without this pulse, the ECM will not fire the injectors.



when the wrong resistor (or no resistor is in):



security light comes on

car will not start for 4 mins, even if the correct key is in there (to prevent someone from just going thru all the combos fast).... everytime its retried in that 4 min peroid, 4 MORE mins are added, upto the max time. i dont recall what the max time is.

biggest tip i can tell ya on buying one:
avoid 98 Fbod engines and corvette motors. the 'vette motor is WORSE for ya since it requires switching almost everything "vette specific" to fbod specs... the 98 was a oddball year with a diffrent wiring harness (less support and help online) and a PCM that just isnt as good.... 99+ fbody engines only.

VATS works like this on 3rd gens:
you put the key with the "chip" in.
the "chip" is just a resistor. but it has to be the right one.

when the correct resistor is in:
the VATS module on your thirdgen does two things.
  1. enables the starter relay.. this allows the engine to turn over
  2. sends a signal to the ECM.. this signal is a constant pulse at a specific frequency. without this pulse, the ECM will not fire the injectors.

when the wrong resistor (or no resistor is in):
  1. security light comes on
  2. car will not start for 4 mins, even if the correct key is in there (to prevent someone from just going thru all the combos fast).... everytime its retried in that 4 min peroid, 4 MORE mins are added, upto the max time. i dont recall what the max time is.


**********************


VATS works like this on 4th gens:
you put the key with the "chip" in.
the "chip" is just a resistor... but it has to be the right one.

when the correct resistor is in:

the Body control module (BCM) on the 4thgen does two things.
  1. enables the starter relay.. this allows the engine to turn over
  2. sends a signal to the PCM.. this signal is either a pulse like the 3rdgens, but at a diffrent frequency.... OR in the case of the late late LS1s, its a serial commucation thing where the BCM talks to the PCM saying all is well.... without this, it does not fire the injectors, and it does not spark the coils.

when the wrong resistor (or no resistor is in):
  1. security light comes on
  2. car will not start for 4 mins, even if the correct key is in there (to prevent someone from just going thru all the combos fast).... everytime its retried in that 4 min peroid, 4 MORE mins are added, upto the max time. i dont recall what the max time is.




so heres what i did.
  1. i left the stock VATS 3rdgen system ALONE..... someone tried to steal my car once... VATS was the ONLY thing that saved it.
  2. in HPtuners, the VATS can be turned off in the fbody PCM by clicking a checkbox... REALLY REALLY EASY... with this box checked, the car will run. it will set DTCs (trouble codes) because parts are missing (like rear O2s, AIR, EGR, fuel tank pressure, coolent level sensor, ect.. because stuff isnt there basicly, but with HPtuners, thoes are easy to fix. just more clicking.) but the car runs.

    hereswhat you COULD do... on ebay theres a box like the tach adapter box. this box sends the proper signal to the PCM... wire it in (ignition power, ground, PCM signal) and its set... but you need to flash the PCM anyway for the DTCs... so you might as well skip that and either have your tuner take it out, or do it yourself in HPtuners. (another $50 in lesson saved.. lol)
  3. the 3rdgen VATS to PCM wire goes nowhere...... if you're wondering why leave it..... the starter disable. without the proper VATS key, it still wont crank over.




for EVERY wiring diagram on a 91 Fbody go here: http://66.83.134.202/travis/91FbodyWiring/

i also have some 92 Fbody diagrams someone emailed me, but i know nothing about them.. the 91 ones are almost all exactly the same as the 92s... where the slight diffs are should not matter with this swap.

btw, save everything i link to your hard drive.... my server may not be up forever.
Old 04-19-2005, 08:20 PM
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stroked342@aol.com


thanks!!!!!

I have been researching it and i have come to the conclusion that it will not be that hard. It would be nice to have a company modify the harness and flash the ECM but for that cost I could buy my own HPTuner and still save over $200. I am on a budget and $200 is a fuel pump and some lines for me

thanks for the help. I will post all my research on here for future reference. If somone could host it on a site i could do a step by step procedure.
Old 04-20-2005, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by SatisTraction
stroked342@aol.com


thanks!!!!!

I have been researching it and i have come to the conclusion that it will not be that hard. It would be nice to have a company modify the harness and flash the ECM but for that cost I could buy my own HPTuner and still save over $200. I am on a budget and $200 is a fuel pump and some lines for me

thanks for the help. I will post all my research on here for future reference. If somone could host it on a site i could do a step by step procedure.

why, i just happen to own www.swapls1.com and www.HowToSwapALS1.com ....

ive just been too busy to actually getting around to making anything about it... the only things up is somthing i thru together in a half hour.... if you want to type somthing up, id gladly host it.
Old 04-20-2005, 01:33 PM
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OK. it will be a while but i will do it. I am going to build the car and then tear it down for paint. when i put i pack together i will write it up and take pics.
Old 04-20-2005, 02:07 PM
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no prob.. im telling myself the same thing... im going to do a write up and take more pics when i tear it apart for paint... lol
Old 04-20-2005, 09:10 PM
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did any of you leave the diagnostic plug connected so taht you could connect a tuner for the computer?
Old 04-21-2005, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SatisTraction
did any of you leave the diagnostic plug connected so taht you could connect a tuner for the computer?
Definitely. Also need it for a scanner so it's a good investment. Troubleshooting an LS1 without a scanner is a real PITA.
Old 04-21-2005, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SatisTraction
did any of you leave the diagnostic plug connected so taht you could connect a tuner for the computer?


yup.

all i did was go into the junkyard and grab one off of a GM ODBII car.....
Attached Thumbnails who has modified their own ls1 harness?-obd-ii_pinout.jpg  
Old 04-21-2005, 10:53 AM
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that is what i needed!!!
Old 04-21-2005, 12:19 PM
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yea, i posted that up months ago, but with this sites screwy search feature, even searching under my name for it wont make it come up...
Old 04-22-2005, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDude1

when you get a pullout that has the harness on the car, everything is connected except:

3 connectors that were underhood. (named C100,C101,C105)
2 connectors that used to connect under the dash (220,230)


so these 5 connectors are teh ONLY wires we're worred about.

in a nutshell... give ignition power to the pink wires, constant power to the orange ones, take off VATS, and it runs.

the other wires you hook up are just gauge wires, reverse lights, ect.... nothing hard.

its ALMOST a stand alone harness already... only diff is it will have a couple extra wires left after its hooked up.. not a big deal
wow I didn`t realize the f-body harness was that compact, does anyone know if the truck harnesses are that simple. I was thinking of getting a truck engine instead of an f-body because the iron motors are cheaper.
Old 04-22-2005, 01:18 PM
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theres one more wire not listed there.. its a thick purple wire that goes to the starter.

when it gets +12v, the starter turns the motor over.
Old 04-22-2005, 08:24 PM
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Mr Dude, you're my new hero! You may have just saved me $650 on a "custom" harness. I'm really leaning towards wiring this thing up myself.... thanks for the info, keep it coming!

*You should make a LS1/3rd gen WIRING sticky topic with your info. What do you think?? Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease!
Old 04-22-2005, 08:29 PM
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Oh yeah, Mr Dude- did you just take your harness thru the small hole under the AC box?? Neil at Hawks told me that is how they do all their cars Anyone else tried this??
Old 04-25-2005, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by GTA91
Oh yeah, Mr Dude- did you just take your harness thru the small hole under the AC box?? Neil at Hawks told me that is how they do all their cars Anyone else tried this??
i made my own hole...
Old 04-25-2005, 11:15 AM
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I paid Speartech to modify mine and that made it very simple to install and he did the modification/labels in just one week.

but now that I see how easy it is to do, I suggest people modify their own if they have the time. it is very simple to get the car up and running.
Old 04-25-2005, 08:39 PM
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this subject should be cleaned up and made into a sticky!!!!


Quick Reply: who has modified their own ls1 harness?



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