LS1 pace setter header in a 67 PICS
05-31-2005, 08:23 PM
#1
LS1 pace setter header in a 67 PICS well i finally found some tine to work on the LS1 swap. I need to do some grinding and have them coated. the second tube back may need some work before i coat them. these are the 99 race (no smog)1 3/4" headers
Last edited by SatisTraction; 07-05-2005 at 07:04 PM.
06-01-2005, 10:01 PM
#2
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the second tube back may need some work before i coat them
How about a ding to get a little clearance? Did you have to modify anything besides the first tube? Looks great! How is the ground clearance?
How about a ding to get a little clearance? Did you have to modify anything besides the first tube? Looks great! How is the ground clearance?
07-05-2005, 06:59 PM
#4
Originally Posted by ahowudoin
the second tube back may need some work before i coat them
How about a ding to get a little clearance? Did you have to modify anything besides the first tube? Looks great! How is the ground clearance?
How about a ding to get a little clearance? Did you have to modify anything besides the first tube? Looks great! How is the ground clearance?
well i finished the drivers side. the ground clearance is as good as it can get. they are about 3/4" from the floors.
now it is about time to send the frame to the blaster for rust removal. I know it looks like crap but I have all new parts to put back on. DSE -2" springs, QA1 shocks, power coated lowers with delrum bushings, speed tech tubular uppers, IROC Z steering box, ETC. all i need is a hotckins sway bar and i will be set!!
07-06-2005, 05:22 PM
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A little while back you said how you were going to cut ouit the area of the donor car with the slave and master cylinder and weld that into the 67, hows that coming because i am thinking about doing the same thing, and have fun with rust removal... and keep your fingers there arent cracks in the subframe.
07-06-2005, 06:21 PM
#7
i have not really looked into the master cylinder part yet, sorry i cant help more.
the rust removal is a pain. today i replaced about 2' of the drip rail above the drivers door. it was a major PITA. i can believe the previous owner let it set outside and ruin. if you look at the last pic you can see where it was when i found it. The good news is that I only paid $3400 for seven 1st gen's from that guy. His house looks like a junk yard
the rust removal is a pain. today i replaced about 2' of the drip rail above the drivers door. it was a major PITA. i can believe the previous owner let it set outside and ruin. if you look at the last pic you can see where it was when i found it. The good news is that I only paid $3400 for seven 1st gen's from that guy. His house looks like a junk yard
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10-04-2005, 01:02 AM
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10-07-2005, 12:18 AM
#15
Hey, SatisTraction.
Looks like we're doing the exact same project. Seeing as you've already done your headers, maybe you could help me out. I've got a few questions. Mine should arrive either tomorrow or monday from summit.
1. Why did you angle the collectors? were they pointed down, to where you could gain clearance? Or was it laterally (pigeon toed or duck footed)?
2. Should i, before putting them in with the steering box in place, cut the tubes where it's necessary, (measure down from flange, also cut at flange, )and do the necessary fab work from there, or what? I'm curious as to how you figured all this out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My baby's going to the body shop in the next week, as i finished welding in my last piece of sheet metal (left side quarter flare).. so she'll be gone for a while. Also waiting to use the mill at work to finish the oil pan notching process.
Thanks in advance.
olly
Looks like we're doing the exact same project. Seeing as you've already done your headers, maybe you could help me out. I've got a few questions. Mine should arrive either tomorrow or monday from summit.
1. Why did you angle the collectors? were they pointed down, to where you could gain clearance? Or was it laterally (pigeon toed or duck footed)?
2. Should i, before putting them in with the steering box in place, cut the tubes where it's necessary, (measure down from flange, also cut at flange, )and do the necessary fab work from there, or what? I'm curious as to how you figured all this out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My baby's going to the body shop in the next week, as i finished welding in my last piece of sheet metal (left side quarter flare).. so she'll be gone for a while. Also waiting to use the mill at work to finish the oil pan notching process.
Thanks in advance.
olly
10-10-2005, 12:45 PM
#17
ok, i cut the collector off because i wanted to be able to remove the 1st tube. you just grind the weld off and remove the collector. then cut the 1st tube about 1/2" from the flange. bolt the header on and the steering box. modify as needed. I only needed about a 6" section of straight 3/4" pipe to fill the gap. you can see it in the top pic.
the second tube was almost OK. i just cut it about 1/2" from the flange and then ground off about 1/16" and welded it back up.
the second tube was almost OK. i just cut it about 1/2" from the flange and then ground off about 1/16" and welded it back up.
10-17-2005, 09:40 PM
#20
Heard in the external engine section, that i just get a 3 inch pipe, and clamp it in. I think i'll just do a '45 degree elbow, cut to length to keep the exhaust paralell to the frame, then merge that into a summit 3 inch "X". I'll post on how it turns out.
olly
olly