gogogadget

iTrader: (1)

I need to buy injectors, intake plumbing and wire the gauges before it will run.

Thanks to LS1tech members for all the help.

ex-SS-ve

iTrader: (9)

looks good . what you doing for gauges ? stock? and how did you get the 3 plugs that go from the engine harness to the interior harness to work.? repin or what? let me know . got a ls1 in my 93 z28

gogogadget

iTrader: (1)

I got a guy (ls1tech board member) to fix the harness so that those would plug right in.

I have an autometer pro comp voltage, water temp, and oil pressure gauges.

The oil wasn't necessary (the other two were) as the stock gauge was supposed to work, but I wanted a good gauge with all the money I already had in the project.

clubhouserider

iTrader: (1)

I think your motor looks excellent! THe only question I have is what are you going to do for an intake setup, since its an LT1 bodied car. Are you going to use an LT1 cold air intake system or a Ram air setup of some sort. I'm sure that 90mm intake setup will need some serious airflow.

JerseyLS1TA

iTrader: (2)

Nice, that is going to be one helluva sleeper

gogogadget

iTrader: (1)

I have a few options. My original LT1 setup was a homemade 3.5" steel elbow after the maf and into a 9" k&n cone. A 4" rubber elbow will fit for between the TB and the MAF (85mm), but I will have to drop down to 3.5" to guarantee that the hood closes.

Another option is to keep all 4" and do some heating and smashing to get clearance for the ABS/radiator area on the drivers side. That is the only problem with the 4" fitting. The 3.5" fits just fine with a small dent to clear the ABS block.

The final option is to re-route the top radiator hose and run the 4" elbow straight down, turn, and go over to one side.

If I go the 4"/3.5" route it will allow me to re-use my existing steel elbow and filter, and I only have to buy the 4" rubber elbow and the 4-to-3.5 coupler and some clamps. That costs less than $30 (+clamps) and I may do that just to get it running and design something better soon after.

Airflo.com has all the stuff for a good price.

bluecamaroz28

It's nice. Where did you get the LS2 motor and how much?

gogogadget

iTrader: (1)

I bought it new from a chevy dealer. You will get about the same price from any of the competitive places. $5625 delivered, if I remember right.

If you want something new and have zero parts for an LS1 to begin with, it is a good way to go. A 402 shortblock can be had for less, but then you have no heads/intake/fuel rails/etc.

CHRISPY

Looks great, I would go the 4 into 3.5 inch route personally and avoid all that extra heat from the rad. The 4 inch necked down to 3.5 inch with 9 nine inch K&N will flow plenty for that motor and get air from a nice cool place.

Great work BTW! Was it hard getting the motor mounts to work etc? How many hours total do you think you have in the project?

Cheers,
Chris

jpolser

iTrader: (3)

The hardest part of the whole job was the time spent researching things, followed by locating a source to buy all the parts. I knew nearly nothing about LSx engines, other than it would fit.

I bought a k-member used, engine brackets used, and new engine mounts. That allowed me to roll the old stuff out, bolt the new engine and suspension onto the new k-member, and roll it back under the car.

It took about 3 hours to get the old engine rolled out, and a little less than that to get the new one bolted in. Add a few hours for wiring, etc.

The longest time spent was changing the oil pan and moving the ls2 around the shop, up and down, etc. It was much easier than I thought it would be, but I planned my butt off for this and bought what was needed (shop crane, hoist, etc).

jpolser

iTrader: (3)

oops - using my brothers computer again (as gogogadget).

TAF Motorsports

iTrader: (10)

very cool

thinkBIG

But what if you plan on upgrading all those things (heads/intake/fuel rails/etc) anyway, would you still go that route? Let's say the car you want to drop it in requires you have it inspected. Would you buy a long block LS2 drop it in, have it inspected, remove it, sell the parts, and replace them with the new parts and use the accessories off the purchased long block? Or would you purchase a sleeved short block (427 LS2 in my case), the aftermarket, heads, intake manifold, etc., source out the accessories (alternator, belts, pullies, etc.) and find a way of getting it inspected?

Great job on the car by the way. I am in my planning stages as well, so I hope you don't mind me asking.

Thanks, Luigi

jpolser

iTrader: (3)

I am replying on my brother's computer again (cannot log out for some reason).

I do have to pass tailpipe emissions to get an inspection sticker. That is one reason for not changing the cam before installing the engine. The rest comes down to money. I have started from scratch - accessories, exhaust system, torque converter, gauges, flexplate, injectors, wiring harness, cable TB, etc. Lots of money in parts just to make the thing run (besides the $5625). I considered all the options, and for the money the stock crate engine seemed to be the best "starter" engine. Once it is inspected I will swap the cam. I didn't want to buy different heads because of all the options coming to market now that have no track times (just flow sheets). Whenever I figure out which set will work best, I will do that.

I wanted a "new" car. The current 94 had a 130k mile heads/cam engine and it was just a little neglected in areas. Now it has a zero miles engine, all new interior, and it will pass emissions without effort - that allows me to just relax and drive the car awhile so I can decide on what I want to do next. A heads/cam LS2 will give me more power than anything I have driven so far.

"Find a way of getting it inspected" has a habit of not happening when you need it to (from my experience). Once my car hits the age limit allowing for a safety-only inspection, I will have more displacement and a much bigger cam, but that is years away.

thinkBIG

Thank you for the response, I am in the exact same situation as you described and I think your course of action is ideal for me as well.

I appreciate you taking the time out to explain it to me,

Luigi

thinkBIG

What do the additional parts cost (pulley, belt, alternator, powersteering pump, a/c pump, starter etc.) or did you use parts from your old motor?

bluecamaroz28

Was that a complete engine with brackets, pulleys, alternator and the rest? Looking to see if it comes sort of turn-key for Conversions & Hybrids swap projects.

jpolser

iTrader: (3)

Complete except for alternator, ps pump, and starter.

It comes with a corvette balancer, water pump, exhaust manifolds and oil pan.

jpolser

iTrader: (3)

Tensioner assembly is $65 new
Alternator- I got a deal one for $100 brand new with brackets
PS pump- $100 used, included lines, cooler, pulley, resevoir and brackets
Starter was $55 used

I have a condensor and lines, but no AC compressor yet (it is December).

The old motor was an LT1; nothing bolts up to the LS1/2/6.

bluecamaroz28

Will LS1/6 stuff bolt to the LS2 engine?