leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

carlc was nice enopugh to send me a power steering box to see if it would clear my headers. i have stainless works headers for factory steering. alot of pepole have been complaining about there headers neeeding to be smacked with a hammer to clear a power box, so i have no idea what this box is out of. iroc? carlc should no. but it clears. only one spot is tight (about .030") but i would rather grind on the head a little (or swap bolt for allen head cap screw, just thought of that while typing) than smack my new headers around. in case anyone is wondering, im useing the car shop adapter plates with energy susp. poly mounts. any questions that this does not cover or any other veiws anyone would like please let me know, and i'll try to take a picture. so here's a few.

this is the two boxs side by side



this is the tight spot on the manual box, tons o' room



and hers the tight spot on the power box



and that is my new 6 week old son brewski (don't know how that got here)

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

That looks like an 800 series Saginaw box. Came stock in everything from my 1967 chevelle to a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

Skele4door

iTrader: (1)

You'll probably want a bit more clearance than that. Even with stiff polyeurethane mounts your motor will move around some and it'll end up clearancing itself on that steering box while making a lot of racket.

CarlC

iTrader: (9)

Thanks to Leon for the fitment trial.

So, in short, it fits! It appears that your mounting plates are similar to the Autocraft and ATS plates.

Leon, it would be helpful to post a picture and the Stainless Works part number of the installed header. Your design has a #3 tube that routes differently than Rybar's and there is a very high possibilty of confusion.

I wish I had a spare pitman arm for you to fit. I may be able to find a junker. I'll let you know ASAP.

Do you have a picture of the collector and how close it is to the floorboard?

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

I remember reading a thread on here a year ago that the Carshop plates are copies of the S&P plates.

If you take the S&P plates and flip them upside down and put them on the wrong sides (may require some grinding?), then would be pretty close to the ATS-style plates (and Autokrafts appear to be a copy of the ATS plates). I think the ATS plates are thicker than the Carshop plates, so you might need run the backing plate under the ES poly mount that would normally be omitted with the ATS plates.

I think the ATS plates put the engine about an inch lower than the S&P plates, which can create some header clearance issues. I've only tried Hooker supercomps with my ATS-style plates, and I was making contact with the steering box in two places and the pitman arm in one.

Here's what a right-side Autokraft plate looks like when it's installed. Note the engine mount is upside down:

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

i'll take a picture later today, and is the pitman the same for power as manual? because i have the one on my o;d box. but does anyone have a middle header bow?

Slow 346

iTrader: (33)

Manual steering pitman arms are different than a PS one.

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

guess im gonna have to find a pitman arm if im gonna try to use this. and a power steering pump!!!

hey carl here's those other pictures you asked for.

if the ats mounts put the motor lower than my car shop mounts you may have a problem with the headers hitting the box, imgoing to try useing a button head allen bolt and see how much better it clears, but that might not be for a coupple days.

driver header from the top



driver header from the side


this is a shot of the ground clearance from the pass side.



and you can see hear my trans pan is lower than the headers. so these tuck nice and tight.

CarlC

iTrader: (9)

Leon,

Thanks for the pics.

If the header is moved aft and down, which may be the case using different mounts, will there be sufficient room to install the power steering hose on the inboard connector on the box? A top-view picture would help.

Also, do you have a measurement/picture of how far the rear of the engine if from the firewall?

Will you be able to use a stock type plug wire, or is a 90* needed for #5?

DCx

iTrader: (12)

are the headers 1 3/4? they look pretty beefy.

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

carl im not sure wich mounts your using but this is what the car shop ones look like.




and heres a pic of the firewall clearance. tomorow i'll take a measure (its over a hundred right now). also tomorow i'll try one of the stock wires, i hadn't even thought of that.

samdogmx

iTrader: (14)

what headers are those?

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

they are stainless works part number CALS1SB . and they are 1 3/4"

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

the number 5 plug wire sits right on the number 3 header tube, i have been looking and cant find a part number for a plug wire set that has a 90 on the ends. i thought the newer vette ones were 90 ? does anyone know?

DCx

iTrader: (12)

do you think they would last if they had some heat resistant sleeves on them?

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

i dont know but , i see all these ls2 and ls3 drawings in magazines (not actual photos) and they have 90 deg. ends? yet every picture on like summit etc, is of generic wires , not even ls1 wires?

Moose

iTrader: (5)

man I'm learning a bunch.. I really don't want to convert my car to rack and pinion right away. I've been trying to figure out what headers will work with the stock steering box and this post is great.

I guess it going to take sometime to figure out what motor mounts and headers work together.

CarlC

iTrader: (9)

Leon,

Did you get a chance to measure the firewall distance?

Infamous

I have heard the ATS mounts mated with the Hooker plates will work for the Hooker LT's on first gens with the original Saginaw box.

Mankind

ahh, just put the headers upside down!!!! (*_*).