68 camaro a/c, oil pan, wiper motor
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68 camaro a/c, oil pan, wiper motor
I am starting to put a ls1 6 speed into a 68 camaro and have a few questions. Has anyone notched the frame to use the stock f body a/c compressor on a first gen? Has anybody used the autokraft oil pan? Will the wiper motor interfere with anything on the ls1?
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Notching the frame is only an option for people using the BRP mount plates. Most first-gen people use S&P-style or ATS-style mount plates, and the only option is to relocate the compressor. BRP plates move the engine up a little and forward a couple of inches, and require you to convert to rack & pinion in addition to notching the oil pan. S&P keeps the engine in about the original smallblock location, and ATS keeps it at the same fore/aft position as S&P but lowers it about an inch. Hooker makes a set of plates that keep about the original height, but move the engine back about two inches so there's almost no clearance to the firewall.
I'm using ATS-style plates and the Autokraft pan. No problem with wiper clearance. I did have problems with wiper and heater core clearance when I tried the Hooker mount plates. I can't remember now if I had the Hookers or the ATS-style plates installed when I had brake booster clearance problems (it hit one of the coils).
Eventually I'll put a Vintage Air GEN-IV system in it, and I'll have to buy or fabricate some brackets to mount the Sanden compressor up high on the right side of the engine.
When I do my next LSX swap, I'll probably go with real ATS plates and the ATS pan.
Tons of pics off of the page linked in my sig
I'm using ATS-style plates and the Autokraft pan. No problem with wiper clearance. I did have problems with wiper and heater core clearance when I tried the Hooker mount plates. I can't remember now if I had the Hookers or the ATS-style plates installed when I had brake booster clearance problems (it hit one of the coils).
Eventually I'll put a Vintage Air GEN-IV system in it, and I'll have to buy or fabricate some brackets to mount the Sanden compressor up high on the right side of the engine.
When I do my next LSX swap, I'll probably go with real ATS plates and the ATS pan.
Tons of pics off of the page linked in my sig
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Thanks for the replys. I was thinking of getting the ats mounts or the car shop mounts. Whats the difference between the autokraft and the ats pan? I am also wondering if the stainless works headers would fit better than the hooker headers.
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With the S&P plates, you should clear the 68 and 69 wiper motor, but the 67 wiper motor will NOT clear. You should consider pulling your heater core and adding a gentle bend to the nipples to help clear the #7 coil. You will not clear the 11" booster. To keep the AC in the stock location, you will want to go to a tubular subframe.
#6
Originally Posted by Rodder
BRP plates move the engine up a little and forward a couple of inches, and require you to convert to rack & pinion in addition to notching the oil pan.
The BRP setup moves the engine forward so you can use the stock f-body accessories without cutting the oil pan. The factory (box)steering assembly is trashed and you install a (LS1)rack.
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Thanks for all the info. The heater core was changed to a big block style a few years ago, which moves the hoses away from the back of the motor. So I should be good there. The car has manual brakes now but I might add power when I install the clutch m/c bracket. Looks like I will want the small booster. I hope that will clear. I guess a/c will wait for now. How is the s&p oil pan? I have seen the pick up tubes not being quite right.
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We have no issues at all with the S&P oilpan. Clears everything well, we have good oil pressure, and no leaks. Get the steel adapter plates instead of the aluminum, they are thinner and will fit your mounts better. A 9" or 8" booster will clear great. Some pics in our thread...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/684612-story-our-ls1-swap-into-67-camaro.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/684612-story-our-ls1-swap-into-67-camaro.html
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S&P sells the aluminum adapters. They are nice, but the thickness gave us fits. A lot of people are selling steel plates now. CPP is selling plates with mounts for about $60, but I don't know which style they are.
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Originally Posted by chrisp3
Thats not not exactly true.
The BRP setup moves the engine forward so you can use the stock f-body accessories without cutting the oil pan. The factory (box)steering assembly is trashed and you install a (LS1)rack.
The BRP setup moves the engine forward so you can use the stock f-body accessories without cutting the oil pan. The factory (box)steering assembly is trashed and you install a (LS1)rack.
I'll reiteratate my recommendation for ATS mounts/pan/etc though. Great parts, great support, and everything designed with performance in mind. The S&P mount plates and crossmember seem to be fine, although there are several members here who've had problems with S&P pans/pickups. And I still hate the BRP setup, which is kind of ironic since I think I live about 10 miles from them.