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68 camaro a/c, oil pan, wiper motor

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Old 07-31-2007, 09:18 PM
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Default 68 camaro a/c, oil pan, wiper motor

I am starting to put a ls1 6 speed into a 68 camaro and have a few questions. Has anyone notched the frame to use the stock f body a/c compressor on a first gen? Has anybody used the autokraft oil pan? Will the wiper motor interfere with anything on the ls1?
Old 07-31-2007, 11:53 PM
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i have no clue about any of the other questions but the wiper motor shouldnt be a problem, mine isn't
Old 08-01-2007, 01:50 AM
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Notching the frame is only an option for people using the BRP mount plates. Most first-gen people use S&P-style or ATS-style mount plates, and the only option is to relocate the compressor. BRP plates move the engine up a little and forward a couple of inches, and require you to convert to rack & pinion in addition to notching the oil pan. S&P keeps the engine in about the original smallblock location, and ATS keeps it at the same fore/aft position as S&P but lowers it about an inch. Hooker makes a set of plates that keep about the original height, but move the engine back about two inches so there's almost no clearance to the firewall.

I'm using ATS-style plates and the Autokraft pan. No problem with wiper clearance. I did have problems with wiper and heater core clearance when I tried the Hooker mount plates. I can't remember now if I had the Hookers or the ATS-style plates installed when I had brake booster clearance problems (it hit one of the coils).

Eventually I'll put a Vintage Air GEN-IV system in it, and I'll have to buy or fabricate some brackets to mount the Sanden compressor up high on the right side of the engine.

When I do my next LSX swap, I'll probably go with real ATS plates and the ATS pan.

Tons of pics off of the page linked in my sig
Old 08-01-2007, 08:46 AM
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Thanks for the replys. I was thinking of getting the ats mounts or the car shop mounts. Whats the difference between the autokraft and the ats pan? I am also wondering if the stainless works headers would fit better than the hooker headers.
Old 08-01-2007, 10:05 AM
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With the S&P plates, you should clear the 68 and 69 wiper motor, but the 67 wiper motor will NOT clear. You should consider pulling your heater core and adding a gentle bend to the nipples to help clear the #7 coil. You will not clear the 11" booster. To keep the AC in the stock location, you will want to go to a tubular subframe.
Old 08-01-2007, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Rodder
BRP plates move the engine up a little and forward a couple of inches, and require you to convert to rack & pinion in addition to notching the oil pan.
Thats not not exactly true.

The BRP setup moves the engine forward so you can use the stock f-body accessories without cutting the oil pan. The factory (box)steering assembly is trashed and you install a (LS1)rack.
Old 08-01-2007, 09:09 PM
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Thanks for all the info. The heater core was changed to a big block style a few years ago, which moves the hoses away from the back of the motor. So I should be good there. The car has manual brakes now but I might add power when I install the clutch m/c bracket. Looks like I will want the small booster. I hope that will clear. I guess a/c will wait for now. How is the s&p oil pan? I have seen the pick up tubes not being quite right.
Old 08-01-2007, 09:54 PM
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We have no issues at all with the S&P oilpan. Clears everything well, we have good oil pressure, and no leaks. Get the steel adapter plates instead of the aluminum, they are thinner and will fit your mounts better. A 9" or 8" booster will clear great. Some pics in our thread...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/684612-story-our-ls1-swap-into-67-camaro.html
Old 08-01-2007, 10:42 PM
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Does s&p have the steel adapter plates? I think car shop plates are steel.
Old 08-02-2007, 11:10 AM
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S&P sells the aluminum adapters. They are nice, but the thickness gave us fits. A lot of people are selling steel plates now. CPP is selling plates with mounts for about $60, but I don't know which style they are.
Old 08-03-2007, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by chrisp3
Thats not not exactly true.

The BRP setup moves the engine forward so you can use the stock f-body accessories without cutting the oil pan. The factory (box)steering assembly is trashed and you install a (LS1)rack.
I just double-checked and you're right. I still hate the BRP mount for moving the engine forward, and haven't heard anything good about their rack conversion (horrible turning radius? bump steer?).

I'll reiteratate my recommendation for ATS mounts/pan/etc though. Great parts, great support, and everything designed with performance in mind. The S&P mount plates and crossmember seem to be fine, although there are several members here who've had problems with S&P pans/pickups. And I still hate the BRP setup, which is kind of ironic since I think I live about 10 miles from them.




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