1997 240sx with LS1
10-10-2007, 03:52 PM
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1997 240sx with LS1 My car is almost completed. It only has wiring, exhaust and tuning to make it run.
I am hoping for 400hp but would like to see 450hp. I believe I'm going to take a hit from the headers but we'll see how they hold up on the dyno. My main concern is not with peak numbers but with the power curve itself. Just looking at all these LSX dyno sheets I know I'll be happy no matter how it turns out.
The headers, mounts, and pan will be completely redone this winter, I just need the car running now for a event.
The engine consists of:
This is a picture of the original engine with 88,000 miles. I hope not building the bottom end doesn't come back to haunt me.
And here are the latest pictures.
View http://www.d-rated.com/new/?view=ls1pics for more and full size pictures.
Need to make the shift handle come back about 1 inch.
The Hood clears!
All leftover parts will soone be for sale
I am hoping for 400hp but would like to see 450hp. I believe I'm going to take a hit from the headers but we'll see how they hold up on the dyno. My main concern is not with peak numbers but with the power curve itself. Just looking at all these LSX dyno sheets I know I'll be happy no matter how it turns out.
The headers, mounts, and pan will be completely redone this winter, I just need the car running now for a event.
The engine consists of:
- SI5 231 237 .589 .595 112 +4 Cam
- Patriot Performance 59cc Stage 2 Heads
- LS6 ported Oil Pump
- LS7 Lifters
- Hooker Headers
- Exedy Hyper Single
- 42.5# Injectors
- ARP Rod Bolts
- FAST 90mm Intake
- NW 90mm TB
This is a picture of the original engine with 88,000 miles. I hope not building the bottom end doesn't come back to haunt me.
And here are the latest pictures.
View http://www.d-rated.com/new/?view=ls1pics for more and full size pictures.
Need to make the shift handle come back about 1 inch.
The Hood clears!
All leftover parts will soone be for sale
Last edited by okis14; 10-10-2007 at 04:02 PM.
10-10-2007, 04:06 PM
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I ran at all the USdrift events except the All-Star and GT-Live since I didn't have the car.
If you mean the Hyperfest demo in Baltimore then yup, that was me, but with the KA and not LS1. I'm going to have a new beast now and can't wait!
If you mean the Hyperfest demo in Baltimore then yup, that was me, but with the KA and not LS1. I'm going to have a new beast now and can't wait!
10-10-2007, 06:28 PM
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looks good man.
as for the shifter, i had to move mine about an inch or 2 back also. i just put it in a vice, hit it with a torch, then used a breaker bar to bend it. worked awesome.
as for the shifter, i had to move mine about an inch or 2 back also. i just put it in a vice, hit it with a torch, then used a breaker bar to bend it. worked awesome.
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10-11-2007, 01:54 PM
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Nothing really surprising came from it although I sold my wiring harness with my KA not thinking I'm going to need it. Actually, I won't need it this winter but for now I do.
All the information on what to get to build the engine and most of the information on how to put it in (mainly just looking at pics to see how people made their crossmember) came from this site.
It's a pretty straight forward job though. I didn't do the fab work cause I suck at welding and the shop that is doing it is using my car as a prototype to make kits. Maybe by the end of this year they might have some nice kits ready. Their kits will have polyurethane mounts and no cutting of the crossmember should be needed. I can't go into details yet.
At this point the only thing I'm worried is the head\cam combo. I am hoping the cheaper route doesn't cost more in the end but for my goals it should be fine. I'm no LS1 expert though.
All the information on what to get to build the engine and most of the information on how to put it in (mainly just looking at pics to see how people made their crossmember) came from this site.
It's a pretty straight forward job though. I didn't do the fab work cause I suck at welding and the shop that is doing it is using my car as a prototype to make kits. Maybe by the end of this year they might have some nice kits ready. Their kits will have polyurethane mounts and no cutting of the crossmember should be needed. I can't go into details yet.
At this point the only thing I'm worried is the head\cam combo. I am hoping the cheaper route doesn't cost more in the end but for my goals it should be fine. I'm no LS1 expert though.
10-11-2007, 07:44 PM
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If the oil pan wasn't the restriction, the only thing someone would have to do is beat out the tunnel a little making this swap just as easy as an SR swap.
It's still in a design concept now but looking at my car we don't see any reason why it shouldn't work.
---Edited in
Taken from Rangers2339 post
Check out his pic
If you could have any type of pan you wanted then the cross member doesn't need to be notched.
Last edited by okis14; 10-11-2007 at 07:53 PM.
10-11-2007, 08:33 PM
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well of course, but theres no factory rear sump pan that fits lol. the rack is in the way. so dry sump, custom pan or notch crossmember? even for someone in their own garage, having their crossmember cut and welded is gonna be way cheaper than a custom pan/pickup/tray.
Last edited by Kamin; 10-11-2007 at 08:47 PM.
10-11-2007, 09:36 PM
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There are more people that will buy kits and do it themselves or take the kit to a shop and have them do it. How many people take their cars to get SR swapped? And that is probably the easiest swap to do since there is no fabrication involved and shops charge anywhere from $600 and up.
If someone does have a shop do it, it shouldn't cost more to buy a "bolt-on" kit then to pay the shop in labor charges to custom make everything. For the pan, they are going to have to spend at least $250 on a GTO pan (unless they get it used) and $60+ per hour in labor. That alone can can take a huge chunk out of the price for a custom pan.
If it is convenient for people and at a reasonable cost, people will want it. There is nothing you can do about the DIY people but they are the minority.
Bottom line is that the cross member does not have to be notched. Is it worth paying a little extra to make it easier to install? For most I will say yes, for the DIY guys no.
But it is still in design mode, if the cost becomes too high then the pan idea will be scratched.
10-12-2007, 06:59 PM
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Doing anything yourself is always going to be cheaper. There just isn't any way around that for any type of automotive work.
There are more people that will buy kits and do it themselves or take the kit to a shop and have them do it. How many people take their cars to get SR swapped? And that is probably the easiest swap to do since there is no fabrication involved and shops charge anywhere from $600 and up.
If someone does have a shop do it, it shouldn't cost more to buy a "bolt-on" kit then to pay the shop in labor charges to custom make everything. For the pan, they are going to have to spend at least $250 on a GTO pan (unless they get it used) and $60+ per hour in labor. That alone can can take a huge chunk out of the price for a custom pan.
If it is convenient for people and at a reasonable cost, people will want it. There is nothing you can do about the DIY people but they are the minority.
Bottom line is that the cross member does not have to be notched. Is it worth paying a little extra to make it easier to install? For most I will say yes, for the DIY guys no.
But it is still in design mode, if the cost becomes too high then the pan idea will be scratched.
There are more people that will buy kits and do it themselves or take the kit to a shop and have them do it. How many people take their cars to get SR swapped? And that is probably the easiest swap to do since there is no fabrication involved and shops charge anywhere from $600 and up.
If someone does have a shop do it, it shouldn't cost more to buy a "bolt-on" kit then to pay the shop in labor charges to custom make everything. For the pan, they are going to have to spend at least $250 on a GTO pan (unless they get it used) and $60+ per hour in labor. That alone can can take a huge chunk out of the price for a custom pan.
If it is convenient for people and at a reasonable cost, people will want it. There is nothing you can do about the DIY people but they are the minority.
Bottom line is that the cross member does not have to be notched. Is it worth paying a little extra to make it easier to install? For most I will say yes, for the DIY guys no.
But it is still in design mode, if the cost becomes too high then the pan idea will be scratched.
changing the oil pan is going to cause issues with oil amounts (it already sucks tons of oil on track and you should run an extra quart), and if you extend the front of the pan, theres NO way a stock sway bar will clear. not only that but then the pickup is in an incorrect location and you could run it dry under certain conditions. it sounds like a nightmare trying to rebuild a pan the right way.
just my opinion, best of luck to them i hope they can finally supply a correct kit rather than the garbage thats out there now
will you be at the proam nationals in laughlin? ill be driving, see you there if you are going
its always fun poking around other peoples ls1 swapped 240's because EVERYONE does it differently hehe
10-12-2007, 10:34 PM
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Last post on the kit as I don't want to go into much detail about it.
Capacity, sway bar, and oil surge shouldn't be a problem and won't be compromised. In fact, the pan should fix the capacity problem. If at any time there seems to be a flaw in the design it will be scratch. Nobody wants to sell a bad pan. At least you would hope so.
The only real problem I see is the filter since the pan will need to be larger. Although it is easy to just relocate it, that adds to extra cost. The goal for the pan is to remove the entire core sending process as that just adds more overhead. It's all about convenience for the customer and the distributor.
If it turns out to be too expensive then a notched crossmember will be with the kit. Oh, we aren't talking about modifying the GTO pan either
.
There is still a lot of research to be done and once the effort of doing it multiple ways is sized, the one that is most cost effective and convenient will be the one to go with. It may even come down to building any kit won't be worth it.
It's going to be a balance between supply, convenience and cost. People like us are going to drive up the demand.
As for Laughlin, I'm considering myself going but I'm not sure. I really don't think it's worth it. I like the people at FD, driving with the best is awesome, and the tracks are badass but it just isn't privateer oriented. I give a big salute to those privateers that go to every event...Joon Meang.
I've done it for 2 seasons now and I feel I'm just burning money away. I really need to get the car dialed in. I haven't had an FD event where something major went wrong. Laughlin may be the first time I drive with the LS1.
I might bow out next season and just compete at local events to get the car set then go back the following season. I have a feeling I'm going to go through 3 - 4 cams and numerous of dyno tunes.
Capacity, sway bar, and oil surge shouldn't be a problem and won't be compromised. In fact, the pan should fix the capacity problem. If at any time there seems to be a flaw in the design it will be scratch. Nobody wants to sell a bad pan. At least you would hope so.
The only real problem I see is the filter since the pan will need to be larger. Although it is easy to just relocate it, that adds to extra cost. The goal for the pan is to remove the entire core sending process as that just adds more overhead. It's all about convenience for the customer and the distributor.
If it turns out to be too expensive then a notched crossmember will be with the kit. Oh, we aren't talking about modifying the GTO pan either
.There is still a lot of research to be done and once the effort of doing it multiple ways is sized, the one that is most cost effective and convenient will be the one to go with. It may even come down to building any kit won't be worth it.
It's going to be a balance between supply, convenience and cost. People like us are going to drive up the demand.
As for Laughlin, I'm considering myself going but I'm not sure. I really don't think it's worth it. I like the people at FD, driving with the best is awesome, and the tracks are badass but it just isn't privateer oriented. I give a big salute to those privateers that go to every event...Joon Meang.
I've done it for 2 seasons now and I feel I'm just burning money away. I really need to get the car dialed in. I haven't had an FD event where something major went wrong. Laughlin may be the first time I drive with the LS1.
I might bow out next season and just compete at local events to get the car set then go back the following season. I have a feeling I'm going to go through 3 - 4 cams and numerous of dyno tunes.
10-13-2007, 01:36 AM
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i totally understand about that one man, i hurried my swap so much because i thought i might get a chance at proam. turns out i got an invite and im glad i have a few events under my belt with the new engine. it took me a while to get used to it but im still not 100% yet. biggest thing to remember is the rotational mass. my first time drifting it i went for a 2-3 upshift and looped it because i was on the gas too fast. no turbo spool haha. biggest thing for me was to lift earlier for transitions and roll into the throttle gently
TORQUE IS AMAZING lol
regardless, i hope you guys get an awesome kit developed. best of luck with the rest of it. cant wait to see the final details.
240guy - those are hooker block huggers for a street rod LS1. i used them on mine too they require some decent modification but are super cheap and look untouched when you are done.
TORQUE IS AMAZING lol
regardless, i hope you guys get an awesome kit developed. best of luck with the rest of it. cant wait to see the final details.
240guy - those are hooker block huggers for a street rod LS1. i used them on mine too they require some decent modification but are super cheap and look untouched when you are done.
