Serious about drag racing your C5 or C6? step in
12-07-2009, 12:22 PM
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Staging Lane
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Serious about drag racing your C5 or C6? step in As most are aware, we’ve been working towards innovating a number of drag specific parts for your C5 or C6. As time marches on, we have found that many of you have decided to make your cars geared more for your specific racing needs, which is where we come in! Using my own 99 Convertible, and other customer vehicles as a test cars, we feel as though many of these products are now plenty proven and ready for resale for your own drag racing Projects.
Here’s a breakdown of the mods developed with Drag racing in mind!
1) The Pfadt Drag System
2) Pfadt Drive Train Mounts
3) Pfadt Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft
4) ECS Powerglide Package
5) ECS 15 in Wheel / Spindle Kit
6) ECS HD Axles
7) ECS Halfshaft Safety Loops
8) ECS Spool Kit
9) ECS Manual Rack and Pinion Steering Assembly
10) ECS Alternator Relocation Kit
11) ECS Torque Tamer
12) ECS manual brake master kit
Working closely with the team at Pfadt Race Engineering, we’ve assembled a proven suspension set up that can yield 1.2 (and dropping) sixty foots at the track, and actually remain relatively “streetable” if your car shares time on the strip and on the street. As the developer of the ECS parts, and the only shop to actually use them to break new ground we are proud to offer them up!
For those who want to retain the IRS, Starting with a solid overall suspension was critical. Pfadt stepped up to the plate by designing a true adjustable suspension that works. The combination of a Drag Specific Coil Over, Poly urathan or spherical C-Arm bearing kit, and a ridged rear sway bar have proven to be aggressive, yet comfortable on the street, but up to the task of keeping the tires planted and the rear suspension square to enable to the car to jump out of the hole.
So with more than a few sub 1.3sec 60’s, I think we can now say that the Pfadt Drag packages works! We are offering it in two stages:
Drag 1 System:
The Stage 1 system is comprised of Pfadt Coil Overs set up with Drag Specific Springs a Pfadt Competition Rear Bar and Pfadt Poly Control Arm Bushings. This set up is a bit more forgiving on the street, but helps greatly towards reducing the bushing deflection and resulting toe-in that is inherent under hard launches with the stock rubber bushings in C5 and C6.
Pricing is as follows: C5/C6 Steel Frame - non C6 Z06: $2755.00 C6 Z06 Aluminum Frame: $2850.00
Drag 2 System: (exactly what I run)
The Stage 2 System is pretty much the same set up as far as the Coil Overs and Sway bars, but it includes the Spherical Bearing vs. a bushing. The Sphericals are a very trick part and as they are solid units, they will eliminate any deflection. If your primary use will be at the drag strip, this should be your choice!
C5/C6 Steel Frame - non C6 Z06: $4210.00 C6 Z06 Aluminum Frame: $4305.00
To anchor the rest of the driveline, I’m also using Pfadt Engine Mounts and Pfadt Trans/Diff Mounts. These two components are selected to reduce the driveline shake inherent in these cars. The mounts are much more rigid, thereby all but eliminating the movement of the Driveline. :thumbs:
Engine Mounts: Retail $250.00
Pfadt Trans / Diff mounts: C5 Retail $340.00 C6/C6 Z06 Retail $290.00 3. Rear Pillow Blocks: Retail $125.00
Not in the car yet, but will be shortly, is the Pfadt Carbon Fiber Driveshaft System: It’s a shame that it goes inside the torque tube!
Aside from looking like artwork, The Pfadt Carbon Fiber drive shaft assembly weighs only 4.28 pounds! That is a weight savings of 52%. What's important is that this weight reduction is rotating mass!
The Pfadt C5/C6 Carbon Fiber Shaft Retails for $2000
As good as the Pfadt Components are, we felt that there was still some room for improvement in driveline from a standpoint of strength and durability, as well as a opportunity to reduce weight. . One of my favorite things about the current set up is that it’s dead reliable… it literally has only been on the lift to swap the drag pack to street tires and to change the oil! Nothing like having a car you can turn the key and drive.
ECS Powerglide
Obvioulsy, the first change we made was the Powerglide conversion. This was a huge step up in durability. You can tell me all day long that the glide makes it a full time racecar, but the reality is, when you’ve broken as many trannys as we have, not having to worry about blowing a trans is a vast improvement. Plus it gives your newer car a "hot rod" feel on the street, if you have had 60's cars in the past, it puts the car somwhere in the middle while street driving. You can run a 10 sec index class all year long and your biggest worry will be lights and launch.
The ECS Powerglide Package is comprised of a Reid case and custom internals assembled to accept the custom shafts we have manufactured to work with the C5/C6 and C6Z rear ends. The Kit comes completely assembled with the trans, adapter plates, tail housing and trans/rear end brace. It’s literally a bolt in swap. You select your converter and shifter based upon your build. With my 3.42 ratio, street driving is not bad, and I can still tool around at 60+mph. :thumbs: The best part is, if you wanted to return to stock, it would be pretty much undetectable. There is no cutting, no pounding – no body modifications at all, and installs as fast as a stock trans swap. We have the part numbers etc for a shifter and cable that bolt right in, and looks factory (on steriods) when you reinstall the stock shift boot. No need to make the interior look shaby with this mod, or bringing it to an interior shop to do it. :thumbs:
I am running a std C5ZO6 rear, with 3.42 gears (cryo'd) both hardened shafts, and our spool kit. We do offer the PG with a C6Zo6 shaft also btw.
Many people have been asking me how we keep the diff's together at these levels. What is not taken into consideration by most is that the torque multiplication threw the glide is much less then a six speed, or 4l60 or 4l80. Thus making the entire drive train more reliable, not just the transmission.
For example;
the first gear of a powerglide (which can be changed) is 1.8, so if you are making 1000ftlbs of torque, the pinion will see 1,800 ftlbs of torque to it.
The exact same 1000ftlbs of torque to a six speed ZO6, which has a 2.97 first gear ratio, will see a pinion torque of 2,970 ftlbs.
The same 1000ftlbs of torque going threw a 4l60, with a 3.06 first gear ratio, ends up at 3,060 ftlbs of torqe applied to the pinion.
Common sense can tell you that with at least another 1000ft lbs of torque being applied to the stock rear housing, the chance of failure is drastically higher.
So with better 60' times, better/faster trans brake, more reliability from the whole drive train as a whole, for a racer it is a no brainer. The price is reasonable enough that a few years later you want to switch back to your stock trans because you dont have the time to race as much, or whatever, you can switch back to the stock trans in an afternoon, and sell the set up for reasonable return. It would cost less to do that, then to race with a 4l60 that needs to be rebuilt each year, let alone the other advantages.
The Powerglide package comes complete for $6999
15 in Spindle Kit:
you want more hook, you need more tire. The factory spindles greatly reduce our options. We changed that by designing a completely new spindle that works with factory ball joint and c-arms. The smaller height of these spindles allow for the use of a 15in rim and tire package. I run them with a 15X11 Weld wheel combo with Mickey Thompson ET Drags 28x11.5x15. No noticble difference at all on the street, but with 1.2 60 foots, I feel this was a great addition to the cars overall set up.
We put the package together with a Strange Slotted Rotor and Caliper package. It’s a direct bolt in, and the bigger sidewall is a huge benefit if your making real power and coming out hard.
Turbo guys, we have a dual rear caliper option available and in use already, call for pricing.
The Spindle kit retails for $1995.00
Here’s a breakdown of the mods developed with Drag racing in mind!
1) The Pfadt Drag System
2) Pfadt Drive Train Mounts
3) Pfadt Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft
4) ECS Powerglide Package
5) ECS 15 in Wheel / Spindle Kit
6) ECS HD Axles
7) ECS Halfshaft Safety Loops
8) ECS Spool Kit
9) ECS Manual Rack and Pinion Steering Assembly
10) ECS Alternator Relocation Kit
11) ECS Torque Tamer
12) ECS manual brake master kit
Working closely with the team at Pfadt Race Engineering, we’ve assembled a proven suspension set up that can yield 1.2 (and dropping) sixty foots at the track, and actually remain relatively “streetable” if your car shares time on the strip and on the street. As the developer of the ECS parts, and the only shop to actually use them to break new ground we are proud to offer them up!
For those who want to retain the IRS, Starting with a solid overall suspension was critical. Pfadt stepped up to the plate by designing a true adjustable suspension that works. The combination of a Drag Specific Coil Over, Poly urathan or spherical C-Arm bearing kit, and a ridged rear sway bar have proven to be aggressive, yet comfortable on the street, but up to the task of keeping the tires planted and the rear suspension square to enable to the car to jump out of the hole.
So with more than a few sub 1.3sec 60’s, I think we can now say that the Pfadt Drag packages works! We are offering it in two stages:
Drag 1 System:
The Stage 1 system is comprised of Pfadt Coil Overs set up with Drag Specific Springs a Pfadt Competition Rear Bar and Pfadt Poly Control Arm Bushings. This set up is a bit more forgiving on the street, but helps greatly towards reducing the bushing deflection and resulting toe-in that is inherent under hard launches with the stock rubber bushings in C5 and C6.
Pricing is as follows: C5/C6 Steel Frame - non C6 Z06: $2755.00 C6 Z06 Aluminum Frame: $2850.00
Drag 2 System: (exactly what I run)
The Stage 2 System is pretty much the same set up as far as the Coil Overs and Sway bars, but it includes the Spherical Bearing vs. a bushing. The Sphericals are a very trick part and as they are solid units, they will eliminate any deflection. If your primary use will be at the drag strip, this should be your choice!
C5/C6 Steel Frame - non C6 Z06: $4210.00 C6 Z06 Aluminum Frame: $4305.00
To anchor the rest of the driveline, I’m also using Pfadt Engine Mounts and Pfadt Trans/Diff Mounts. These two components are selected to reduce the driveline shake inherent in these cars. The mounts are much more rigid, thereby all but eliminating the movement of the Driveline. :thumbs:
Engine Mounts: Retail $250.00
Pfadt Trans / Diff mounts: C5 Retail $340.00 C6/C6 Z06 Retail $290.00 3. Rear Pillow Blocks: Retail $125.00
Not in the car yet, but will be shortly, is the Pfadt Carbon Fiber Driveshaft System: It’s a shame that it goes inside the torque tube!
Aside from looking like artwork, The Pfadt Carbon Fiber drive shaft assembly weighs only 4.28 pounds! That is a weight savings of 52%. What's important is that this weight reduction is rotating mass!
The Pfadt C5/C6 Carbon Fiber Shaft Retails for $2000
As good as the Pfadt Components are, we felt that there was still some room for improvement in driveline from a standpoint of strength and durability, as well as a opportunity to reduce weight. . One of my favorite things about the current set up is that it’s dead reliable… it literally has only been on the lift to swap the drag pack to street tires and to change the oil! Nothing like having a car you can turn the key and drive.
ECS Powerglide
Obvioulsy, the first change we made was the Powerglide conversion. This was a huge step up in durability. You can tell me all day long that the glide makes it a full time racecar, but the reality is, when you’ve broken as many trannys as we have, not having to worry about blowing a trans is a vast improvement. Plus it gives your newer car a "hot rod" feel on the street, if you have had 60's cars in the past, it puts the car somwhere in the middle while street driving. You can run a 10 sec index class all year long and your biggest worry will be lights and launch.
The ECS Powerglide Package is comprised of a Reid case and custom internals assembled to accept the custom shafts we have manufactured to work with the C5/C6 and C6Z rear ends. The Kit comes completely assembled with the trans, adapter plates, tail housing and trans/rear end brace. It’s literally a bolt in swap. You select your converter and shifter based upon your build. With my 3.42 ratio, street driving is not bad, and I can still tool around at 60+mph. :thumbs: The best part is, if you wanted to return to stock, it would be pretty much undetectable. There is no cutting, no pounding – no body modifications at all, and installs as fast as a stock trans swap. We have the part numbers etc for a shifter and cable that bolt right in, and looks factory (on steriods
) when you reinstall the stock shift boot. No need to make the interior look shaby with this mod, or bringing it to an interior shop to do it. :thumbs:I am running a std C5ZO6 rear, with 3.42 gears (cryo'd) both hardened shafts, and our spool kit. We do offer the PG with a C6Zo6 shaft also btw.
Many people have been asking me how we keep the diff's together at these levels. What is not taken into consideration by most is that the torque multiplication threw the glide is much less then a six speed, or 4l60 or 4l80. Thus making the entire drive train more reliable, not just the transmission.
For example;
the first gear of a powerglide (which can be changed) is 1.8, so if you are making 1000ftlbs of torque, the pinion will see 1,800 ftlbs of torque to it.
The exact same 1000ftlbs of torque to a six speed ZO6, which has a 2.97 first gear ratio, will see a pinion torque of 2,970 ftlbs.
The same 1000ftlbs of torque going threw a 4l60, with a 3.06 first gear ratio, ends up at 3,060 ftlbs of torqe applied to the pinion.
Common sense can tell you that with at least another 1000ft lbs of torque being applied to the stock rear housing, the chance of failure is drastically higher.
So with better 60' times, better/faster trans brake, more reliability from the whole drive train as a whole, for a racer it is a no brainer. The price is reasonable enough that a few years later you want to switch back to your stock trans because you dont have the time to race as much, or whatever, you can switch back to the stock trans in an afternoon, and sell the set up for reasonable return. It would cost less to do that, then to race with a 4l60 that needs to be rebuilt each year, let alone the other advantages.
The Powerglide package comes complete for $6999
15 in Spindle Kit:
you want more hook, you need more tire. The factory spindles greatly reduce our options. We changed that by designing a completely new spindle that works with factory ball joint and c-arms. The smaller height of these spindles allow for the use of a 15in rim and tire package. I run them with a 15X11 Weld wheel combo with Mickey Thompson ET Drags 28x11.5x15. No noticble difference at all on the street, but with 1.2 60 foots, I feel this was a great addition to the cars overall set up.
We put the package together with a Strange Slotted Rotor and Caliper package. It’s a direct bolt in, and the bigger sidewall is a huge benefit if your making real power and coming out hard.
Turbo guys, we have a dual rear caliper option available and in use already, call for pricing.
The Spindle kit retails for $1995.00
12-07-2009, 12:23 PM
#2
Staging Lane
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HD Axles –
These HD axles were developed with serious hp in mind! These axles Include larger diameter 300M axle bars (increased from 1.125" to 1.375"), larger 33 spline outer CV (increased from 30 spline), and hubs (with bearing) to accommodate the larger outer spline. This kit also uses our 108mm Porsche-style inner CV joints with our chromoly bolt-on inner flanges. In order to achieve optimum strength, we have increased the diameter of the seal surface on the bolt-on inner flanges and include new axle seals to accommodate them. Rated to 1000HP with a 1-year warranty. Also available are the new direct replacement 300M differential spline output shafts, also with a 1-year warranty.
Price $2299.00
ECS Halfshaft Safety Loops:
NHRA requires half shaft loops for Corvettes running faster than 10.99. We spoke to an NHRA tech before we started our design and followed what they required. We have our C5 kit ready and in production with the C6 units soon to come. It takes only 15-20 minutes to install these half shaft safety loops.
ECS Spool Kit:
In quest for more traction, many of you have tried aftermarket carriers with the hopes of more consistent traction and eliminate blowing clutches. Problem is, on the road the feel like a locker, or just short of a spool, and are heavy. So that got us thinking.
With that in mind, we developed this easily installed, easily reversible spool kit for C5’s and C6’s. Its effective, inexpensive and now proven. These bolt directly into the stock C5/C6 carrier. The car does bind some in sharp turns as expected, but was completely tolerable, (to a racer that is) but probably not something for your DD.
Price: $194.99
The ECS Manual Rack & Pinion steering system reduces weight and parasitic drag caused by the factory power steering and pump assembly. This kit comes complete with a Flaming River pinto style rack, aluminum rack extensions with Teflon sleeved tie rod ends, bump steer kit, 3 Sweet universal joints (one machined to fit the C5 Steering shaft), aluminum mounting brackets with auxiliary steering shaft support, and all necessary mounting hardware and jam nuts. Some fabrication to the front cradle is required but the system is carefully designed to maintain the stock steering radius.
Pricing for everything is $1,395, and $99 for the alt relocation kit if purchased together as pictured below.
Our alternator relocation kit allows you to relocate your alternator where the factory air conditioner mounts. This feature allows the serious drag racer to drive the alternator off the 4 rib provision on stock or overdrive crank dampers. This optional kit comes with brackets, hardware and a new alternator pulley. (comes with a different pulley than shown – this was a mock up photo).
Although great for a supercharged car like my own, NA guys can go with an electric water pump and no longer need their 6 rib serpentine belt with these mods! Leaving a ton of room for things like a vacuum pump assy, or whatever you can dream up.
Sold seperately for $149, includes hardware.
Torque Tamer
For the high hp guys we have made a new product we call the "torque tamer" that supresses the torque arm lifting effect of the entire drive train upon heavy launches that causes a great deal of stress to the rear of the torque tube. Most straight axle cars have what is know as a torque arm to stop the entire differential from spinning in the opposite direction of the wheels, which transfers the torque from the wheels to the body of the car. Our Corvettes have a Torque tube which now does all of that. On a stock car, the weight of the trans assembly, and strength of the tube is plenty enough to supress the flexing of the torque tube itself. Once we start adding gobs of HP, this is not enough. What happens is that the torque tube flexes pretty badly, with the bulk of the load right at the rear of the tube.
The torque Tamer keeps the torque tube from flexing at that point, and distrubutes the torque load throughout the car better then just the motor mounts only. It also protects the driveshaft from taking the flex as well.
$189
bolt in manual brake master kit
once you have gone with lightweight brake rotors and calipers, it's time to finish off the system correctly. We have came up with a manual brake master kit that bolts directly into the stock booster placement. The factor pedal works great, and we supply the rod needed to bolt to it. The placement of the master is raised from stock, so the fulcrum point of the pedal is higher, giving you an easier pedal.
In a nutshell that’s 12 products that if you are serious about drag racing your C5 or C6 you should consider. We’ve assembled a few cars in house with varying combinations of these components and all have improved short times and ET’s. Give Mike or Chris a call to discuss installation rates, as it varies greatly depending on the combination of parts selected.
All products are currently available from ECS!!!! Lets Go racing!!! :thumbs:
We have several other custom ECS parts that we will be adding to this list and updating as time allows. From hide away parachute mounts, flywheels, and more!
Thanks for taking the time to read all of this![/QUOTE]
These HD axles were developed with serious hp in mind! These axles Include larger diameter 300M axle bars (increased from 1.125" to 1.375"), larger 33 spline outer CV (increased from 30 spline), and hubs (with bearing) to accommodate the larger outer spline. This kit also uses our 108mm Porsche-style inner CV joints with our chromoly bolt-on inner flanges. In order to achieve optimum strength, we have increased the diameter of the seal surface on the bolt-on inner flanges and include new axle seals to accommodate them. Rated to 1000HP with a 1-year warranty. Also available are the new direct replacement 300M differential spline output shafts, also with a 1-year warranty.
Price $2299.00
ECS Halfshaft Safety Loops:
NHRA requires half shaft loops for Corvettes running faster than 10.99. We spoke to an NHRA tech before we started our design and followed what they required. We have our C5 kit ready and in production with the C6 units soon to come. It takes only 15-20 minutes to install these half shaft safety loops.
ECS Spool Kit:
In quest for more traction, many of you have tried aftermarket carriers with the hopes of more consistent traction and eliminate blowing clutches. Problem is, on the road the feel like a locker, or just short of a spool, and are heavy. So that got us thinking.
With that in mind, we developed this easily installed, easily reversible spool kit for C5’s and C6’s. Its effective, inexpensive and now proven. These bolt directly into the stock C5/C6 carrier. The car does bind some in sharp turns as expected, but was completely tolerable, (to a racer that is) but probably not something for your DD.
Price: $194.99
The ECS Manual Rack & Pinion steering system reduces weight and parasitic drag caused by the factory power steering and pump assembly. This kit comes complete with a Flaming River pinto style rack, aluminum rack extensions with Teflon sleeved tie rod ends, bump steer kit, 3 Sweet universal joints (one machined to fit the C5 Steering shaft), aluminum mounting brackets with auxiliary steering shaft support, and all necessary mounting hardware and jam nuts. Some fabrication to the front cradle is required but the system is carefully designed to maintain the stock steering radius.
Pricing for everything is $1,395, and $99 for the alt relocation kit if purchased together as pictured below.
Our alternator relocation kit allows you to relocate your alternator where the factory air conditioner mounts. This feature allows the serious drag racer to drive the alternator off the 4 rib provision on stock or overdrive crank dampers. This optional kit comes with brackets, hardware and a new alternator pulley. (comes with a different pulley than shown – this was a mock up photo).
Although great for a supercharged car like my own, NA guys can go with an electric water pump and no longer need their 6 rib serpentine belt with these mods! Leaving a ton of room for things like a vacuum pump assy, or whatever you can dream up.
Sold seperately for $149, includes hardware.
Torque Tamer
For the high hp guys we have made a new product we call the "torque tamer" that supresses the torque arm lifting effect of the entire drive train upon heavy launches that causes a great deal of stress to the rear of the torque tube. Most straight axle cars have what is know as a torque arm to stop the entire differential from spinning in the opposite direction of the wheels, which transfers the torque from the wheels to the body of the car. Our Corvettes have a Torque tube which now does all of that. On a stock car, the weight of the trans assembly, and strength of the tube is plenty enough to supress the flexing of the torque tube itself. Once we start adding gobs of HP, this is not enough. What happens is that the torque tube flexes pretty badly, with the bulk of the load right at the rear of the tube.
The torque Tamer keeps the torque tube from flexing at that point, and distrubutes the torque load throughout the car better then just the motor mounts only. It also protects the driveshaft from taking the flex as well.
$189
bolt in manual brake master kit
once you have gone with lightweight brake rotors and calipers, it's time to finish off the system correctly. We have came up with a manual brake master kit that bolts directly into the stock booster placement. The factor pedal works great, and we supply the rod needed to bolt to it. The placement of the master is raised from stock, so the fulcrum point of the pedal is higher, giving you an easier pedal.
In a nutshell that’s 12 products that if you are serious about drag racing your C5 or C6 you should consider. We’ve assembled a few cars in house with varying combinations of these components and all have improved short times and ET’s. Give Mike or Chris a call to discuss installation rates, as it varies greatly depending on the combination of parts selected.
All products are currently available from ECS!!!!
Lets Go racing!!! :thumbs:We have several other custom ECS parts that we will be adding to this list and updating as time allows. From hide away parachute mounts, flywheels, and more!
Thanks for taking the time to read all of this!
[/QUOTE] 
12-09-2009, 01:14 PM
#4
FormerVendor
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Thanks venom,
The coil overs and spherical bearings-etc etc, make the car a little harder on the street, as any coil over would, but the softer spring rates up front for the drag pack is very street friendly IMO. Actually all the Pfadt products are very street friendly IMO, motor and rear mounts will transfer some more vibration, but not terribly.
The spool kit can be felt, but it is not intrusive on the street, just when your in tight turning conditions like a parking lot or if your pushing the car while turning the wheel, is when it is felt the most.
The manual steering and brakes are something we have to recommend as a track use item only, simply from a liability stand point. The rear brakes on the spindle kit are fine for street use with stock front brakes and master, but once you go all manual and race brakes all the way around, braking is not as good as stock. With that being said, I put over 2k on my car this summer on the street, I love the way the car drives. It's like a modern day muscle car to me, keep in mind though that my first car was a 67 GTO that had manual steering and 4 wheel drum manual brakes, which was my everyday car for 5-6 years throughout college. So to me it's a 1000 times better then how that car stopped or turned, and I put 70k on that car while I owned it, so you have to decide what your willing to sacrifice to be better at the track.
The power glide kit depends a great deal on converter and gear selection, but if you want a gist of what it will feel like, drive around in forth gear. I tack around 26-2700 rpm at 60-65 mph, that is where I feel the car can sustain that rpm and mph without any issue's. I never took my car far, or an turnpikes etc anymore anyway, so it works fine for me, it may not for you.
Most the items listed will have some sacrifice involved with them, we do not make any claim otherwise, which is why we say they are for serious drag racer's. Although I have every item listed in my own car now, and street drive the heck of it, so these choices have to made by you. I personally feel my car with these mods and my smooth running FI motor, is more "street able" then a otherwise stock car with a huge cam in it, it's all opinion.
The best thing with all of the mods listed though, is if in a few years you find yourself not racing as much, or just dont have the time or interest anymore, everything can go right back to stock without any damage or fabrication work.
I hope I covered your question well enough, if you have any more do not hesitate to ask.
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12-10-2009, 10:30 AM
#8
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12-16-2009, 01:08 PM
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They didnt "develope slop", they kind of just had more then the original stocker have, and never changed. I watched it pretty closly on the local cars we have installed them on, and they are all the same still. The manufacturer claims the HD bearing requires more play, honestly I thought it was BS at first, but like I said, they are all the same as day one so...
12-17-2009, 07:55 AM
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They didnt "develope slop", they kind of just had more then the original stocker have, and never changed. I watched it pretty closly on the local cars we have installed them on, and they are all the same still. The manufacturer claims the HD bearing requires more play, honestly I thought it was BS at first, but like I said, they are all the same as day one so...
12-19-2009, 01:20 AM
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I just bought a 2004 C5 Z06 with a few mods about 4 months ago. Comp cam 236/238,PRC dual valve springs,ASP under drive pulley,fast 90/LS2 throttle body, TSP long tubes and Y pipe, corsa extreme catback,LS7 clutch/flywheel, DTE rear end brace, and Nitto 555r drag radials. I took it to the track 1st run went through the waterbox for a few seconds, staged and dumped the clutch about 3G, it smoked the tires. The second run I tried slipping the clutch but it still smoked the tires the first 60 ft. I still like to drive it on the weekends around town. Would the drag 1 system help me alot in the 60 ft. and still drive around town?