84MonteSS

iTrader: (2)

I posted this in the auto trans section with no response, so I thought I'd try here. I took my car to the track friday night for the first time this year, beginning to tune for the cam. It's mild, 224/230 .535/.544 110lsa. 84 Monte, raceweight ~3500lbs. 26" MT DR, 3.90 gears, Yank 3400. Trans is a TH350C...DA was around +1200, and the best I could muster was a 1.79. Here's why I'm mad-

Stock ZZ4, 3.42 gears, 2400 converter, same tires- 1.80 60' (Great DA)

Same as above, change converter to Yank 3400- 1.79 60' (Decent DA)

Same motor, put 3.90 gears in- 1.76 60' (great DA)

Also, no matter how I launch it the converter flashes to 3000...feels a little lazy then starts pulling. Any ideas? Not enough power for the converter? Too big/small? I'm really frustrated.

ndfrsd6

iTrader: (5)

whats your tire pressure in your tires

84MonteSS

iTrader: (2)

Right around 20 psi.

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

What intake manifold is on it? It should be a Perf. RPM Air Gap.

Wheres the timing at?

Any suspension mods at all?

Those 60's arent that bad, really...for the motor you have and the sled (no offense) that your trying to get rollin' IMO.

84MonteSS

iTrader: (2)

It is an RPM Air-Gap. Timing was at 35 total, took it down to 32 and picked up a tenth and 1 mph. The only suspension mod is lakewood anti-hop bars. Haha I know they aren't that bad, but I'm just wondering why I didn't get a better 60' after the cam install. I was hoping for low 70's.

ndfrsd6

iTrader: (5)

20 psi is a little high i would drop to 18 see how it reacts and go to 17 ect but that may help cut a .1

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

buddy of mine had a 80's monte, could never hook it at the track. Are you spinning the tires? Are you getting good weight transfer?
I used to tell him to take that big *** front swaybar off but he would never listen, LOL
Any video?

84MonteSS

iTrader: (2)

Not spinning at all, do you think a little more air pressure would help? I don't think going lower would do any good. I believe its getting a good transfer, the anti-hop bars don't let the rear squat; it sits up nice and stays there the whole run. Man the way these cars handle, taking off the swaybar could be a death sentence I don't have any video of it, but I might go to Atco tonight so if a buddy comes along I'll have him tape it and I'll post it up.

84MonteSS

iTrader: (2)

Do you think I should take off the sway bar at the track? I never thought about it really...

gruntwork

iTrader: (2)

If your not spinning, than your suspension/tire setup is working. If you dead hook and it feels a little lazy then picks up, your converter might not be loose enough.

If you are only flashing to 3000 then I think that is the culprit right there. A good 60' will happen when you effectively use your powerband off the line.

84MonteSS

iTrader: (2)

^^^ Yea I'm thinking that's the problem. I don't really want to drop more money for a different converter though

gruntwork

iTrader: (2)

I hear ya, I always try to avoid spending money on a build twice for the same thing.

Your other option may be to follow one of the main rules in a drag buid: Drop weight, ex. lightweight racing seats, lightweight drag wheels, !back seats, !spare and jack, etc.

I plan on doing the above things as well, because I don't really want to change my setup much. Also, a lot of people take off the front sway bar at the track only, then put it back before the drive home. That could be another 15lbs right there.