a98ws6

iTrader: (48)

I am almost ready to start throwing the car together and as far as motor its finished other than the cam and springs. Its going to be a max effort 383. No street duty other then the occasional car show and the drive to and from the track. I have been kicking around the idea of switching to a carb intake with the ford distributor in front. If I sell everything I have as far as injectors, intake, tb, harness, computer, coils and relo kit, etc... how much would the carb conversion run me roughly. Keep in mind I would still have to pay to have the computer tuned after everything was going to be put together. I figure it would come out pretty even and clean up the engine bay even more?

Nabdrill

iTrader: (19)

It's a really broad concept... you can spend as much as you want. Carb, fuel sys, fuel lines, reg, throttle bracket, intake, cowl trimming, ignition, air filter setup. I just did it with the 6ls ignition and I don't dare guess what I have in it. But tuning should be easier.

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

I have a boat load into my carb setup.... Front Dist timing cover, 7531 ignition, ATI balancer, cowl work, hood, fuel system etc etc. I can tell you its over $3000 (I got sick to my stomach after I ball parked to that number and stopped counting) I question myself all the time if it was worth it - dont know yet but but Ill find out once I make the first few passes.

It can be done on the cheap though 6010 box, cheap carb, and a much simpler fuel system... probably around $1500-2000

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

if its a race car thats NA or on juice i wouldnt think twice about it... you need a digital/programmable box if your racing on small tires any way...

the 7531 box is around 800 it self... and i you do a belt drive distributor youll have 1500 wrapped up in that easily from machine work and parts... low pressure fuel pump, and hoses and fittings and carb.... thats another 1500....

its pretty cheap...

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

my car was previous efi, but im goin carb. using the msd ignition box and ls coils for ignititon. using stock intank upgraded walbro 255lph pump. with aeromotive fpr that allows use of efi pump with carb psi. also using a -10 return back to tank and -8 feed from tank area.
all i will need for now is single 255lph since engine will be n/a holley 750 HP

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

Heres a little breakdown of mine... granted this is a race setup.

Front dist. timing cover - $400
Carb Intake - $450
Balancer - $350
Distributor - $250
Coil and Ign. Box - $1200
Fuel System (Magnafuel pump, lines, reg, and fittings) $1500
Hood (sunoco pin on, fitted, and painted) $1000
Carb - $1000

So roughly over $6000, for what I want out of the car, I would have went to a BS3 or similar EFI setup and probably would have about the same or more money into that.

This is for a nitrous race car, for a mild strip car a lot of less expensive parts could be used.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

I got all my **** off a wrecked race car and a used carb dude let me try it out for a month before I bought it to make sure it worked for me...

I got $400 in everything and $300 for my carb.



It sickens me what I spent on DFI, single plane, etc.etc.etc.etc. I HATE EFI FOREVER!!

a98ws6

iTrader: (48)

So the 6LS box is junk? I thought I read it had trouble with aftermarket cranks? Also you guys all say a balancer, and I just ordered a ATI 10% underdriven one w/o A/C. Would that work? Can I use any of my stock fuel parts. I have the Racetronix upgraded parts for my 98. Not worried about cutting the cowl or a hood. Those aren't a problem. I had planned on spraying the car with a 150-200 shot. My current setup is:
New smoothed and painted ls6 intake with bolts with new fast intake gaskets.
New Speed Inc billet rails with custom all black braided fuel line and black fittings.
Racetronix 37lb injectors.
Ported and painted Tb.

Other stuff I could sell is the computer, harness, coil packs, Thunder Racing coil relocation kit w/wires, and new Racetronix fuel pump with upgraded wiring kit if I can't use it with the carb.

I think with everything, I could easily have over $1k to put toward the swap but don't want to spenk $3k. Also I need to add $450 for a tune for the EFI if I stick with it.

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

The 6LS box isnt junk. Just depends on your goals as do most of the other parts. Im sure you could get away with using some of your stock fuel system parts, and ATI Serp balancer (if you use the 6LS box).

What are your plans for the car?

a98ws6

iTrader: (48)

Plans are a 10 sec N/A 9 sec N2O car. Only driven to and from the track and the occasional car show. Its got a 383 full bolt ons and suspension and a Th400 and Moser 9". Has a decent amount of weight loss also. Just trying to figure out if a carb is the right thing for me and my car???

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

Chances are youll be fine with the 6LS box, those ET ranges are well within its capabilities.

I would consider selling your racetronix pump, and plumb in a decent -8 (-10 if you think youll want to go faster in the future ) fuel line and low pressure pump. Your balancer will be fine, might want to pin it, and set up a timing pointer.

Most of the problems Ive heard of with the 6LS box and aftermarket cranks stem from not getting enough RPM to trigger the ignition - make sure your starter, battery etc can really get some cranking RPM's.

I dont think it will cost all that much for what your plans are. Since youre planning to sell the EFI stuff, you shouldnt have to put much out of pocket til you get to a hood etc.

a98ws6

iTrader: (48)

As far as the ignition, do you have to have a digital box? Can't use say a 6AL or something along those lines?

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

with a single plane and carb you will have to trim the cowl.... or youll bitch every time you need to adjust anything....

GM really screwed us over on the whole cowl thing.... bastards

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

with the distributor timing cover you can run just about any ignition box. Youll need a trigger, either a flying magnet crank trigger, the new LSx trigger from MSD that uses the stock reluctor wheel, or a magnetic pickup distributor.

If you go that route, you need to have a balancer that has timing marks and is less than about 6.5" OD

BAKED

iTrader: (14)

You don't even need the box... I'm using the stock computer to run my ignition. You can also use your stock pump and lines. Just put a bypass regulator and regulate it down to 8 or 9 psi. The pump will only build as much pressure as the regulator lets it..... Just buy a single plane and a carb. You will need to cut the injector plug ins off your harness and a few other odds and ends.

I can't believe you guys spent so much money on that ****!

a98ws6

iTrader: (48)

Your setup sounds like something id be interested in, but explain in more depth how your using the stock computer and your fuel setup?

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

you can do this with an ls6 intake and cheap ls6 plate kit. only a simple tune up needed. stock parts work wonders. FAST intake/TB make it even easier.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

when you race on small tires and make north of 1000 hp the box becomes a must... and yes a big fuel pump is needed to make big HP... i would not cut anything off that stock harness... i might undo the pins to the ecu but even at that i'd be skeptical of a electrical fire.... i wouldnt run any racecar off the reluctor wheel in the back of these motors.... that thing is pressed on... a flying magnet is a must also for a fast car....

team39763

iTrader: (3)

So do you not like the MSD 6LS? I think it runs off the reluctor wheel too. I've been trying to make up my mind whether I want to build my racer with the MSD controller or switch to a distributor. But I'd rather not have a distributor that's one reason why I picked this motor(LQ4) over a traditional sbc.

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

Depends on what you expect out of the setup. If youre planning on a race setup with nitrous or high rpm n/a I would recommend stepping up from the 6LS to a digital 7 with a distributor and flying magnet. If youre wanting a mild street/strip car with a smaller hit of juice (300 or less) the 6LS will be more than fine.