Carter01

iTrader: (11)

I will be making a new rim/slick combo purchase next week and I do not want to screw the rims if I can get by without doing so. I have heard that there is certain type glue that you can use on the bead when mounting the tires that will replace the need for rims screws. Can anyone tell me what type glue, where to purchase it from and how to apply this glue? I searched many different posts but could not find a straight answer. FWIW I plan on going mid 10s this year on spray with approx 1.5 60ft times.
Thanks,
Andy

cbra-klla

iTrader: (52)

i did that with stock wheels and drag radials...ive seen people run in the 5's in the eighth with no screws also

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

Thanks cbra-klla but what type glue is it and how do you apply it?

Doughboy692

I have never seen someone "Glue" tires to rims and I have mounted and seen more than a few sets of slicks mounted in the last 23+ years that I have been racing. I can go into the 1.3X 60 foots with my car no screws, no bead locks, and not a whole lot of air pressure just tire on rim and have never slipped the tire on the rim. If you are worried about it line the valve stem up on one of the letters on the tire do the same on both sides and when you get back from making a pass and you are checking the car over you can just look down and see if they slipped. The other thing I do is I NEVER use Ru-glide (its the slippery stuff that is used to mount passenger car tires to make them easier to slip over the rim) And before I mount a tire I clean the bead of the tire and the rim with windex to make sure there is nothing there that would cause less than optimal seating of the bead.

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the reply Doughboy692, so you have a different view point and that is letting the tire itself lock in place without the glue. Is it very hard to get the tire over the rim without the slippery stuff? Not trying to be a smartA but how often did you check your slicks to ensure that they were not slipping? Reason I ask is the way I found out my ET Streets were slipping is I had marked the tire/rim so I could slow down the video to actually count he revolutions I was spinning and I noticed the marks no longer lined up after some hard launches.

cbra-klla

iTrader: (52)

i meant i cut 1.5's without glue or screws.. id suggest taking the tires off and cleaning them good like metioned before, trying that again

koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

permatex hi-tack

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm

TS6

iTrader: (41)

3M weatherstrip adhesive works well.

yak

iTrader: (15)

you can use the lube on the rim to pop the tire on and then clean it off before setting the bead. To see if your tire is slipping just put some chalk on the tire where the valve stem is, if they aren't lined up anymore after a pass, it's slipping.

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the replies, I really hate to drill holes into my new rims/slicks so I will deff try some of these techniques. I mean all I'm shooting for is low 1.5s and some of you have hit 1.3s so I should have no problems at my power level.
Andy

Doughboy692

I check them EVERY run. I have them set up like I wrote above. I run Hoosier Drag slicks and I line up the valve stem with the big H then when I put the tires on the car I make sure both valve stems are in the same position. After a run when I get back to the pits first thing I do is hit the button on the weather station to record weather data, then hook up battery charger to help the fans and water pump cool it back down, then I check post run tire pressure and it only takes a quick look while I am there to make sure I dont have another problem like a twisted axle, a spool with spines that have slipped on the axle or a tire that has slipped on a rim because the only way things can change position is if something is broken or slipped. Then onto fueling the car and other stuff. I bracket race and I have a set strict routine so I can turn the car around fast to make the next round even if we are round robin and have to do it in the lanes and still be safe. It also helps so that if you are having a problem and trying to sort the car out you can rule alot of things out fast. Like I wrote before I check it every run and have never slipped a tire on a rim even with the 60 foots in the 1.3's on a good track that hooks hard and I have thousands of runs in the last 23 years. I am building a second car and intend on doing the same thing with it, IF it does not work (tire slips) I will goto bead locks but I doubt it will we will have to wait and see.