Launching a 6 speed with stock rear end and 275 drag radials?
06-01-2010, 05:20 PM
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Launching a 6 speed with stock rear end and 275 drag radials? I did a search on launching but can't find anything besides advice on built rearend/2step/slick cars. I can not get a decent 60 foot and I think its me not the car. 9 passes last saturday at a local track with my Nitto 275 555R drag radials and best 60foot I could muster was a 2.17 with a 12.97@111.28. For my mods and dyno numbers I know it's slow but I've tried dumping it at 2000 and it spins a bit and then bogs, tried 2500 next and spins a bit more and then I am feathering it in and out going between spinning and bogging back and forth till second and then it spins/fish tails about half way through second gear before finally catching. Another guy told me there to try 3500-4000 and slip and feather the clutch in and out with the gas pedal all the way down till I stop spinning then go from there. It seems like it'd be really hard on my clutch, anybody else do this or have any advice or with these tires am I just limited to about this?
*tires are at about 18psi
*tires are at about 18psi
Last edited by NW Iowa WS6; 06-01-2010 at 05:26 PM.
06-01-2010, 05:23 PM
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Also this track is pretty slow in general it seems. Stock or lightly modded LS1's run low 14's here with best ones doing high 13's I've seen with about 2.0 60 foots and my buddy in an 03 cobra with 479rwhp did 12.88@109.?? with a 2.26 60foot on Nitto 285 NT05 street tires
Last edited by NW Iowa WS6; 06-01-2010 at 05:33 PM.
06-01-2010, 08:33 PM
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I Launch at 3500 and slip the clutch on my MT ET streets and I cut 2.1 60 ft but im also running 25PSI in the tire. What PSI are you running in the tire? You might just want to move up to a DOT drag radial and go from there.
06-01-2010, 09:28 PM
#5
what cluitch to you have?
Your going to need to do a 3000 3500 maybe 4000 fast slip, while slowing going to WOT. Not good for the clutch let it cool between passes I had a ramHD with vert mild bolt ons. Getting low 1.8s 1.7s on my stock 245 summer tires doing that.
Basicly you want to keep the rpms over were it boggs and pulls down the motor, clutch out (3-3,500?) but not nuke the tires, having the clutch fully out WOT. Ya its REALLY bad for the clutch, but I ended up running it for 2 more year going low 11's on slicks all out 6500 dumps. Wearing it out to the min. thickness.
http://vimeo.com/1822370
Your going to need to do a 3000 3500 maybe 4000 fast slip, while slowing going to WOT. Not good for the clutch let it cool between passes I had a ramHD with vert mild bolt ons. Getting low 1.8s 1.7s on my stock 245 summer tires doing that.
Basicly you want to keep the rpms over were it boggs and pulls down the motor, clutch out (3-3,500?) but not nuke the tires, having the clutch fully out WOT. Ya its REALLY bad for the clutch, but I ended up running it for 2 more year going low 11's on slicks all out 6500 dumps. Wearing it out to the min. thickness.
http://vimeo.com/1822370
Last edited by studderin; 06-05-2010 at 09:01 PM.
06-02-2010, 02:48 AM
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I ran my nittos @ 20 lbs and came out of the hole right around 4K. Slipped the hell out of the clutch and eased into WOT and i was in the 1.8 60' range with bolt ons and 4.11s
can i ask why the **** you are running 25 psi on ET streets?! I run mine at 23 on the street and 16 @ the track... im not surprised your not cutting a ncie 60', your prolly bouncing/spinning down the track. My ET Streets give me 1.6 60's cam only
can i ask why the **** you are running 25 psi on ET streets?! I run mine at 23 on the street and 16 @ the track... im not surprised your not cutting a ncie 60', your prolly bouncing/spinning down the track. My ET Streets give me 1.6 60's cam only
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06-02-2010, 09:32 AM
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I was deciding between it and the MT ET street but chose Nitto because it was $85 less for a pair but maybe the MT would have been better. These tires hook really good on the street though so I was hoping for more out of them. Sounds like more people slip the clutch a bit, maybe I am just gonna have to practice that and get used to it. I have a Spec stage 3
06-02-2010, 11:57 AM
#10
I was deciding between it and the MT ET street but chose Nitto because it was $85 less for a pair but maybe the MT would have been better. These tires hook really good on the street though so I was hoping for more out of them. Sounds like more people slip the clutch a bit, maybe I am just gonna have to practice that and get used to it. I have a Spec stage 3
6 speed + Niitos on drag strip = fail
Just go for the fun and understand there inherit limitations for manuals drag racing.
06-02-2010, 01:56 PM
#11
I was deciding between it and the MT ET street but chose Nitto because it was $85 less for a pair but maybe the MT would have been better. These tires hook really good on the street though so I was hoping for more out of them. Sounds like more people slip the clutch a bit, maybe I am just gonna have to practice that and get used to it. I have a Spec stage 3
With a M6 car, and the average race weight they run, to REALLY be effective you need to run on a bias-ply slick, thats number 1. If you insist on a drag radial, the only one out there that I have used that I would consider using again is the M/T ET Street Radial and thats with a good burn out.
In the end you need to leave the line HARD, 5k clutch dumps and the car will cut a good 60 foot.
Slipping clutches or bogging off the line either stresses the clutch or leads to sub par times.
Your issue is that you have a 10 bolt rear and want to look like a hero, welp time to drop some coin on a 9" and spend some money to ensure the rear lives and you cut a good time.
Otherwise just bog it and learn to quick shift and hope for a ok time.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 06-02-2010 at 02:27 PM.
06-02-2010, 08:58 PM
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I ran my nittos @ 20 lbs and came out of the hole right around 4K. Slipped the hell out of the clutch and eased into WOT and i was in the 1.8 60' range with bolt ons and 4.11s
can i ask why the **** you are running 25 psi on ET streets?! I run mine at 23 on the street and 16 @ the track... im not surprised your not cutting a ncie 60', your prolly bouncing/spinning down the track. My ET Streets give me 1.6 60's cam only
can i ask why the **** you are running 25 psi on ET streets?! I run mine at 23 on the street and 16 @ the track... im not surprised your not cutting a ncie 60', your prolly bouncing/spinning down the track. My ET Streets give me 1.6 60's cam only
06-03-2010, 11:28 AM
#15
I see a couple problems.
1) If you went to Thunder Valley - the track is not known for great track prep
2) Nittos suck
3) 10-bolt.
I know that there are people out there that have gone better than 1.9 on stock rear-end and nittos but not a common thing. My 10-bolt did last a number of years, but eventually it wouldn't do the 1.5-1.6 that I wanted. The 12-bolt was great until we started to make real power (best of 1.3's). Now the 9" that I have is great - it will take anything that I throw at it.
You have to decide if you really want to spend the money on a good rear-end and clutch or just enjoy what you have. IMO, save up money for a good 9" (still streetable).
We go to Thunder Valley a lot. Look us up. See if we can help.
David
1) If you went to Thunder Valley - the track is not known for great track prep
2) Nittos suck
3) 10-bolt.
I know that there are people out there that have gone better than 1.9 on stock rear-end and nittos but not a common thing. My 10-bolt did last a number of years, but eventually it wouldn't do the 1.5-1.6 that I wanted. The 12-bolt was great until we started to make real power (best of 1.3's). Now the 9" that I have is great - it will take anything that I throw at it.
You have to decide if you really want to spend the money on a good rear-end and clutch or just enjoy what you have. IMO, save up money for a good 9" (still streetable).
We go to Thunder Valley a lot. Look us up. See if we can help.
David
06-03-2010, 11:58 AM
#16
[QUOTE=studderin;13416367][QUOTE=BlackScreaminMachine;13414068]You slip that clutch I guarrentee a clutch replacement with in 1,000 miles. people who tell you to slip DO NOT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT.
Slipping a clutch will damage it and people do it to make up for incorrect suspension/tire settings.
06-04-2010, 03:24 AM
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Nitto's 555's are barely better than a street tire. The NT05's may be slightly better with their 00 treadwear rating, but just slapping on tires, especially not the right size will only get you so far. Taller is better than wider as the footprint gets longer from front to back. That allows you more traction in all conditions and will make you more consistent.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_FAbHk7KLA
Not an amazing 60'. Only a low 1.8, but I did it on 18"s with a M/T drag radial, stock gearing, and more than full weight with front sway bar. Took lots of trial and error and I only did it once. Without a full drag setup an m6 off the line will be very touchy. You can't launch an M6 consistently on radials, it's just not going to happen. You can't slip the clutch the same way every time in the right powerband to find that medium between spin and bog, plus your clutch will just roast.
Only way to properly and consistently launch a m6 is with....
-Full suspension adjusted properly, front suspension is very important! read my sticky above for more info
-Bias ply slick on a 15" wheel
-Tall tires with the proper gearing (28"s with 4.30's with revs close to 7k is nice)
-Car needs to be lightweight
-5-6K dumps
If you want to drag race, you need to build a drag car. Street and strip cars do neither very good.
S60 with 4.11's is going in mine this year with more suspension and bogarts. I'm hoping for 1.6's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_FAbHk7KLA
Not an amazing 60'. Only a low 1.8, but I did it on 18"s with a M/T drag radial, stock gearing, and more than full weight with front sway bar. Took lots of trial and error and I only did it once. Without a full drag setup an m6 off the line will be very touchy. You can't launch an M6 consistently on radials, it's just not going to happen. You can't slip the clutch the same way every time in the right powerband to find that medium between spin and bog, plus your clutch will just roast.
Only way to properly and consistently launch a m6 is with....
-Full suspension adjusted properly, front suspension is very important! read my sticky above for more info
-Bias ply slick on a 15" wheel
-Tall tires with the proper gearing (28"s with 4.30's with revs close to 7k is nice)
-Car needs to be lightweight
-5-6K dumps
If you want to drag race, you need to build a drag car. Street and strip cars do neither very good.
S60 with 4.11's is going in mine this year with more suspension and bogarts. I'm hoping for 1.6's
Last edited by joblo1978; 06-04-2010 at 03:42 AM.
06-04-2010, 10:14 AM
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Thanks for all the help and the write up everyone now I am not sure what to do about slipping it or not, maybe I will just have to accept my car with the stock rear end and no slicks isn't gonna get much better than 2.17 60foots.
-and Navy David SS, yup I was at marion at thunder valley
-and Navy David SS, yup I was at marion at thunder valley
06-04-2010, 11:48 AM
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Dude, just think about it...
Why would transferring your engine's power to the wheels slowly yield faster acceleration?
If you're slipping the clutch, you might as well be spinning your tires.
Why would transferring your engine's power to the wheels slowly yield faster acceleration?
If you're slipping the clutch, you might as well be spinning your tires.
Thanks for all the help and the write up everyone now I am not sure what to do about slipping it or not, maybe I will just have to accept my car with the stock rear end and no slicks isn't gonna get much better than 2.17 60foots.
-and Navy David SS, yup I was at marion at thunder valley
-and Navy David SS, yup I was at marion at thunder valley