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Help with picking a tire for turbo M6 car!!

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Old 06-19-2010, 09:59 AM
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Default Help with picking a tire for turbo M6 car!!

So im thinking of trying to run the same size that i had last time i was at the track (275/50/15MT DR). but i have alot more power now that hits pretty good. im only running a 3.42 gear and im thinking a 28inch tall tire will kill me out of the hole.
ive had my best 60foot with 4500rpm off the 2-step, making 3psi of boost. 20PSI in the tires (1.67). i also just got some strange SA coilovers for the front now. my old PB was with stock spring and struts. so im thinking i can get more out of that size tires.

power info is in the sig. i DONT like slicks and im running a DR no matter what!

thanks guys
Old 06-19-2010, 11:12 PM
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so looks like its going to be trail and error.
Old 06-19-2010, 11:15 PM
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Maybe try some LCAs and relocation brackets and the same tire. Or 295/45/17s i think is the size MT has.
Old 06-19-2010, 11:22 PM
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sorry forgot to say that the car has everything you could want, just not rear shocks and i need to put on the coilovers in the front still.
i was looking at that size tire for the 17s. but the ZR1s are a ton
Old 06-20-2010, 12:18 AM
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You mean the weight of the Zr1s?
Old 06-20-2010, 09:11 AM
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yes my ZR1 weight alot they are like 47lbs each
Old 06-20-2010, 10:52 PM
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so im thinking of just say f$&% it and get some 325/50/15 and never think about it again. any input on that idea
Old 06-21-2010, 06:06 AM
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If you're not willing to run a slick good luck, stick cars need the bias sidewall to absorb some of the shock. You might get lucky with a radial, and have some random good luck, but it will never be consistant.
Old 06-21-2010, 08:50 AM
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i like to drive the car on the street with my prostars, and i plan on going to a auto over the winter . well thats the plan
Old 06-21-2010, 06:00 PM
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You will best off with a Slick DOT or full race. Stick for ever or you change to an auto next year.

If you don't want that advice the good luck on getting to the end of the track with a reasonable time.

You can drive a DOT slick on the street just the same as you can the DR. Neither are a good idea just because any water and you screwed, also you will be stone chipping your fenders if you get into any stones on the street too.
Old 06-21-2010, 06:24 PM
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good luck launching an M6 in boost with a radial, probably wont happen

my car hates radials at the track. i run a 275/50/17 M&H Radial on the street that hooks well enough, and a 28x1050x15 ET Drag at the track that hook greats even launching in boost off the two step

fwiw i also drive my car around town a lot on the slicks

Last edited by Tally TransAm; 06-21-2010 at 07:55 PM.
Old 06-21-2010, 06:56 PM
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Try a Hoosier DR ive seen cars with 17" rims out back pull the wheels really good on them although it was a auto.
Old 06-22-2010, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Tally TransAm
good luck launching an M6 in boost with a radial, probably wont happen

my car hates radials at the track. i run a 275/50/17 M&H Radial on the street that hooks well enough, and a 28x1050x15 ET Drag at the track that hook greats even launching in boost off the two step

do you have a auto or M6

fwiw i also drive my car around town a lot on the slicks
Originally Posted by AChotrod
Try a Hoosier DR ive seen cars with 17" rims out back pull the wheels really good on them although it was a auto.
i was looking at some hoosier 27/11.5/15 DR but jegs has them on back order.

here is a link of my cars holeshot with the 275/50 DR you can see the front left is off the ground a whole inch LOL. how does the car look to you guys as far as weight transfer?
my cars rear lifts during weight transfer, i have a short spohn TA, relo. brakets, with the LCAs on the bottom hole. i think they are at -2 degs last i check
http://bowtie0069.fotki.com/la-invas...9/img5507.html

thanks for the input guys i do listen to what you all have to says and take it in to account
Old 06-22-2010, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
If you're not willing to run a slick good luck, stick cars need the bias sidewall to absorb some of the shock. You might get lucky with a radial, and have some random good luck, but it will never be consistant.
Listen to him.
Old 06-22-2010, 07:59 AM
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My car is an M6. I could slip the clutch on radials and cut low 1.7's but if I tried to launch hard it would hit the tires too hard and blow them off. On the et drags its in the low 1.5 range and with a little more dialing in should be in the high 1.4's next time out
Old 06-22-2010, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Tally TransAm
My car is an M6. I could slip the clutch on radials and cut low 1.7's but if I tried to launch hard it would hit the tires too hard and blow them off. On the et drags its in the low 1.5 range and with a little more dialing in should be in the high 1.4's next time out
whats been your best time?
Old 06-22-2010, 10:39 AM
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Yeah, auto = radials and manual = slick. Even then slicks are more forgiving on a non-perfect surface even with an auto.
Old 06-22-2010, 04:56 PM
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In my mind drag racing = BIAS. Unless running a class the only proof I have found of radials being faster was one guy with slips gaining .1 and 2-3 mph consistently. Not really faster in my mind with all the finicky attitude of a DR it isn't worth it.
Old 06-23-2010, 02:37 AM
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i think your car setup is 70% of hooking up. we got guys cutting 1.3X 60 foots on DRs
im just saying my car does not hit the tires that hard. im also not a fan of the side to side feeling you get with slicks. i know my car will go over 130mph in the 1/4.

so did anyone look at that pic i posted? and if you did what do you think? its nothing crazy but it looks like the car is transfering its wieght well for the most part. it was only a 4500rpm drop after all
Old 06-23-2010, 11:47 AM
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With your power I would think a 28" tire would be the best. I'd use a 275/60/15 or 325/50/15 if you can make them fit. I'll bet you'll still roast those pretty good.



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