Unstang

iTrader: (26)

What kind of loss in ET & 60' is normal for a car with a 1" drop?

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

holy crap unstang is alive and posting..whats up dude, how you been? hows good old dead moines

i can't give a positive answer on your question, but i can asure you putting stiff *** lowering springs in the back will kill your weight transfer. if you're dead set on it the only way to combat it some would be some soft shocks in back to get the car squatting a bit again but it still won't be optimal..and unless you put a Hal that can be easily adjusted the car will ride really goofy on the street with a stiff spring and a soft shock.

just put hals in front and slam the front down and leave the back..mine looks killer like that on prostars

Colonel

Assuming you can still hook you should go faster due to better aerodynamics and less energy wasted on body movement...but that's a big IF.

Really, the lowering of the car is not the killer of traction...it's the changing of the LCA angle and the stiffer spring rates that kill you. That's why I simply removed my rear spring cushions to lower the rear. If I wanted more I would cut the stock springs a bit (the fronts are cut.) This will leave the spring rate much closer to stock than going to lowering springs. I also used LCA relocators to get the geometry back to stock...well, better than stock actually. I hooked many low 1.6 60s on Nittos with a 3550 raceweight like this. Last time at the track I was DEAD hooking consistant 1.55 60s on 16x10.5 ET Streets.

So, the answer is, lowering could actually help your ET if done in the right manner.

PunkNPonys

iTrader: (2)

Hey colonel, how much did you cut out of the front? A full coil or just half of one? Does the car look funny with the front springs cut and the rear not? I was thining about doing this same thing.

Unstang

iTrader: (26)

Hey Sean, It is cold here in Dead Moines! I am just trying to think about racing to get me thru the winter. I got you PM from a long time ago, just didn't know it was in there. (newbie)

Thanks for the info everyone. I might have to come up with a better plan, I am already slow, I can't afford to gain ET.

Colonel

red, it's been awhile and my memory is fuzy but it seems like it was 2/3 of a coil. Lemme see if I can dig up that old thread and find out for sure.

The car looks perfect with the front cut and the rear spring cushions removed. I didn't lower the car as much as most people. It's a TRUE 1.5" drop I'd say. Some so-called 1.5" drops are much more than that.

CHRISPY

I am installing a set of stock springs (1.5 coils all around cut) after the weather warmsup. Also Installing SLP Bilstein shocks as well.

LCA relocators are already in the car so I should have a good basis for comparision

Cheers,
Chris

KCFormula

iTrader: (4)

I think mine stayed the same. I have the "John Ames" Eibach springs which have VERY low spring rates out back so if I can get my car to hook properly I would not doubt that I could gain some by lowering.

blackz93

iTrader: (2)

a friend of mine has an LT1 trans/am that isnt extremely fast that cuts 1.40 60's

his best is a 1.39

car runs 6.9 at 100 in the 1/8...

lowered two inches...looks sweet

PunkNPonys

iTrader: (2)

Well it looks like lowering springs dont effect ET too much. Hopefully i will be getting the prokit soon and then we will see how much it affected the ET when i go back to the track.

Colonel

Don't get the wrong idea. If you go installing STIFFER springs then your weight transfer WILL suffer and your traction potential will suffer as well. And if you don't correct the LCA angle then your traction will suffer. These two things can make a HUGE difference!

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

Thats what I was saying, since I thought all lowering springs are stiffer than stock, no?

for example the 2000 Firehawk I had for awhile last year couldn't sixty foot to save its life..car was totally stock and would do high 2.2's no matter what..damn thing just wouldn't transfer anyway with the stiff suspension those cars come with..car was flat as a board out of the hole i swear.

Colonel

Thats what I was saying, since I thought all lowering springs are stiffer than stock, no?"

I haven't researched all of the springs available lately but you can cut the stock springs to lower the car. It works well and it doesn't raise the spring rate enough to notice. This is what I did and my car hooks great.

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

Do u guys(that have cut stock springs) have any pics of your cars, to see what difference they make?

Colonel

It could make whatever difference you want. You can cut a little or alot. I cut enough to drop mine about 1.5".

blackz93

iTrader: (2)

maybe if you didnt want them to get too stiff when you cut them you could buy some early year(i think 93-96) v6 springs from a junkyard and use them.

they have a softer spring rate and should be a good compromise between lower and stiffer...IMO

Colonel

Good point. I've thought about that too.

racer88

1.74-1.78 consistent on a good track, 1.84-1.92 at my home track. Lowered with suspension techniques springs 1.25 drop all around, no sway bar on my M6 with Nitto's before my 12 bolt and after, same 60's