Help me keep my Car Cool!!!!!
08-21-2010, 02:51 PM
#1
Help me keep my Car Cool!!!!! Hey guys I've run out of ideas and I figured you'd know best.
The car in my sig will not stay cool. 427 SBC 1 670 HP Iron block.
I have a Griffin radiator setup vertical. It measures 27.5 X 19 X 3.25. Two rows of 1.5" tube in the radiator. Dual puller fans pulling 2700 - 3000 cfm with a shroud setup and shipped to me direct from Griffin. Meziere electric water pump 35gpm.
I cut a slot in my front bumper to try and get some air to hit the radiator directly but it did not help very much. Then I built a chin spoiler out of aluminum and that helped cool it down to about 210.
I'm trying to get this thing down to 180 cruising. Any ideas?
~Jim~
The car in my sig will not stay cool. 427 SBC 1 670 HP Iron block.
I have a Griffin radiator setup vertical. It measures 27.5 X 19 X 3.25. Two rows of 1.5" tube in the radiator. Dual puller fans pulling 2700 - 3000 cfm with a shroud setup and shipped to me direct from Griffin. Meziere electric water pump 35gpm.
I cut a slot in my front bumper to try and get some air to hit the radiator directly but it did not help very much. Then I built a chin spoiler out of aluminum and that helped cool it down to about 210.
I'm trying to get this thing down to 180 cruising. Any ideas?
~Jim~
08-21-2010, 04:05 PM
#2
Are you running pure water? Pure water will cool better. You want to run water wetter and maybe a tiny bit of antifreeze so that nothing corrodes. Also make sure you go back to antifreeze if you live in a cold climate.
A separate trans cooler will help if you don't already have one. Also an oil cooler will make a world of difference.
A separate trans cooler will help if you don't already have one. Also an oil cooler will make a world of difference.
08-22-2010, 10:31 AM
#3
Right now I am running pure distilled water. No additive at the moment.
I have a seperate tranny cooler as well.
I've never tried an Oil cooler before. How much will it drop the temps?
I'm not having a problem at an idle it idle at 180 all day. Te problem is I can't cruise. I'm guessing it's an air flow problem but all my efforts so far have been in vein.
~Jim~
I have a seperate tranny cooler as well.
I've never tried an Oil cooler before. How much will it drop the temps?
I'm not having a problem at an idle it idle at 180 all day. Te problem is I can't cruise. I'm guessing it's an air flow problem but all my efforts so far have been in vein.
~Jim~
08-22-2010, 10:47 AM
#4
Do you have a thermostat or a water restrictor? I have seen in some cases the water may flow too quickly through the rad to extract the heat and you will keep re-circulating the high temp water.
08-22-2010, 12:35 PM
#5
I was thinking that may be an issue. I do not have a thermostat or reducer.
I was told by griffin that a reducer would speed the water up though. So wouldn't that make it pass through the radiator even faster? Or is it going to create a log jam per say and keep it in the radiator longer? I can't put a t-stat in the car due to the Brodix manifold.
Thanks guys,
~Jim~
I was told by griffin that a reducer would speed the water up though. So wouldn't that make it pass through the radiator even faster? Or is it going to create a log jam per say and keep it in the radiator longer? I can't put a t-stat in the car due to the Brodix manifold.
Thanks guys,
~Jim~
08-22-2010, 01:32 PM
#6
I was thinking that may be an issue. I do not have a thermostat or reducer.
I was told by griffin that a reducer would speed the water up though. So wouldn't that make it pass through the radiator even faster? Or is it going to create a log jam per say and keep it in the radiator longer? I can't put a t-stat in the car due to the Brodix manifold.
Thanks guys,
~Jim~
I was told by griffin that a reducer would speed the water up though. So wouldn't that make it pass through the radiator even faster? Or is it going to create a log jam per say and keep it in the radiator longer? I can't put a t-stat in the car due to the Brodix manifold.
Thanks guys,
~Jim~
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEZ-WN0072/
08-22-2010, 04:37 PM
#7
Oil cooler should keep your temps 15 plus cooler.
I would say water wetter for sure you need something to stop corrosion. A restrictor may help so those two should be good for 10 plus. If they aren't enough then the oil cooler will easily pick up the last of the slack. Also doing the first two then you know how much cooler you need from the oil cooler. Also if you get lucky you will save your self $100 plus for the oil cooler.
I would say water wetter for sure you need something to stop corrosion. A restrictor may help so those two should be good for 10 plus. If they aren't enough then the oil cooler will easily pick up the last of the slack. Also doing the first two then you know how much cooler you need from the oil cooler. Also if you get lucky you will save your self $100 plus for the oil cooler.
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08-23-2010, 04:44 AM
#9
I'd start with the water wetter, I've seen cars lose 10 to 15 degrees with that depending on the car.
The tstat, for your use, if you can get away without it, I would. But, that would be the next thing to try.
The radiator you have in the car should be plenty big, I can't imagine that's not enough... if the water wetter and tstat don't do it, then I'd be looking for another potential problem, like maybe a bad pump or a blockage or something.
Oil coolers are never a bad thing... but is a pretty extreme thing to have to do for the issue you're having. Of course if you have a remove oil filter already in the car it's not a big deal to put one in, pretty simple at that point....I'd just hold off on that as a last resort.
The tstat, for your use, if you can get away without it, I would. But, that would be the next thing to try.
The radiator you have in the car should be plenty big, I can't imagine that's not enough... if the water wetter and tstat don't do it, then I'd be looking for another potential problem, like maybe a bad pump or a blockage or something.
Oil coolers are never a bad thing... but is a pretty extreme thing to have to do for the issue you're having. Of course if you have a remove oil filter already in the car it's not a big deal to put one in, pretty simple at that point....I'd just hold off on that as a last resort.
08-23-2010, 07:09 AM
#10
I thought that I was not getting enough air flow to the radiator so I cut the front bumper but that didn't help at all.
What's got me confused is it's running cool while idiling but getting hot on the road. Should be the other way around.
I'm going to try the water wetter and Remote T-stat housing first. I'm also going to try and build a bigger air dam as well. Hopefully I won't need the oil cooler.
~Jim~
What's got me confused is it's running cool while idiling but getting hot on the road. Should be the other way around.
I'm going to try the water wetter and Remote T-stat housing first. I'm also going to try and build a bigger air dam as well. Hopefully I won't need the oil cooler.
~Jim~
08-23-2010, 05:38 PM
#13
If it is a flow issue then the higher rpm will make the water move too fast and not transmit the heat, water wetter will help big time with this issue because is brakes suface tention and will counteract the current problem.
08-24-2010, 07:50 AM
#15
When dealing with cooling problems I always had to look at a few things.
1) Malfunctioning Parts
2) Blockage
3) Incorrect settings
Addressing one at a time....
One of the biggest misconceptions is that when you buy a new part is the assumption that because it is "new" that there cannot be a problem with it. So starts your task of ensuring each part works correctly. For example have you boiled your thermo to see when it opens up?? Have you verified when your fans turn on?? Have you had your radiator sent out to ensure there are no leaks??
Blockages refer to many things but the most common being either Air Bound pockets, or debris. Especially if you had to use RTV thread sealant in bolts that go into the water jackets. Considering its not fully overheating, sounds like a partial air blockage.
As far as settings are concerned, every set up is different, some manual, or some work based on temp. Are yours fully on from the minute the engine starts and is pulling air? Does it work off a switch??
IMO Getting the radiator checked is a good start, putting the car up on jack stants, and making the radiator fill spot the highest point, bleed the crap out of it, make sure every bit of air is out of it. At the same time use the Water Wetter and dont use any or very little coolant. Just make sure to mix it for the winter if cold weather is an issue. Run the fans full time, and do put a thermo in there and see if it can be regulated.
There can always be a case where the cooling system as a whole is insufficent but like JL said, that should be MORE then enough.
1) Malfunctioning Parts
2) Blockage
3) Incorrect settings
Addressing one at a time....
One of the biggest misconceptions is that when you buy a new part is the assumption that because it is "new" that there cannot be a problem with it. So starts your task of ensuring each part works correctly. For example have you boiled your thermo to see when it opens up?? Have you verified when your fans turn on?? Have you had your radiator sent out to ensure there are no leaks??
Blockages refer to many things but the most common being either Air Bound pockets, or debris. Especially if you had to use RTV thread sealant in bolts that go into the water jackets. Considering its not fully overheating, sounds like a partial air blockage.
As far as settings are concerned, every set up is different, some manual, or some work based on temp. Are yours fully on from the minute the engine starts and is pulling air? Does it work off a switch??
IMO Getting the radiator checked is a good start, putting the car up on jack stants, and making the radiator fill spot the highest point, bleed the crap out of it, make sure every bit of air is out of it. At the same time use the Water Wetter and dont use any or very little coolant. Just make sure to mix it for the winter if cold weather is an issue. Run the fans full time, and do put a thermo in there and see if it can be regulated.
There can always be a case where the cooling system as a whole is insufficent but like JL said, that should be MORE then enough.
08-24-2010, 12:09 PM
#16
I'm going to and raise the front of the car today and see if there are any air pockets that I did not get out the first time. If that doesn't work I'm going to pull the front nose off and see if it'll run at temp with the extra air flow. This should tell me what the problem is.
The fans are on a toggle switch. I have them running at all times. They are working properly and so id the pump. I can sit and idle w/o them on and over heat but once I flip the switches is drops to 180 and never moves.
I'm also going to try the water wetter.
~Jim~
The fans are on a toggle switch. I have them running at all times. They are working properly and so id the pump. I can sit and idle w/o them on and over heat but once I flip the switches is drops to 180 and never moves.
I'm also going to try the water wetter.
~Jim~
08-24-2010, 02:14 PM
#17
I'm going to and raise the front of the car today and see if there are any air pockets that I did not get out the first time. If that doesn't work I'm going to pull the front nose off and see if it'll run at temp with the extra air flow. This should tell me what the problem is.
The fans are on a toggle switch. I have them running at all times. They are working properly and so id the pump. I can sit and idle w/o them on and over heat but once I flip the switches is drops to 180 and never moves.
I'm also going to try the water wetter.
~Jim~
The fans are on a toggle switch. I have them running at all times. They are working properly and so id the pump. I can sit and idle w/o them on and over heat but once I flip the switches is drops to 180 and never moves.
I'm also going to try the water wetter.
~Jim~
I'd empty the system out. Start over with just water w/ Water Wetter. I forgot to ask if the car still ran heater core, IF it does then you need to make sure thats cleared out and since thats the highest point in the cooling system it most certainly be a spot of air bounding.
LT1's used to be notorius for this and LS1 were even worse as they hand no provisions for any real bleeding of the coolant system.
08-24-2010, 06:33 PM
#19
I am having the same issue with mine. Stays around 210 to 215 while driving. Never gets hot at idle. It has been 95 degrees here and about the same in humidity - so know that can't be helping.
I did put a washer in my t-stat housing with a 5/8" hole to help restrict the water in case it was flowing through too fast. I then took the washer out with nothing in the housing and I noticed no real change except longer to heat up to operating temp at idle obviuosly. I am going to remove my front mount IC and drive it to see if it is possibly an airflow issue. If that helps it...I may have to run ducting from IC to radiator to chanel air to it. I am also going to try the water wetter as everyone seems to have good luck with it. I put a bleeder in my top radiator hose to help get rid of air pockets by bleeding there as well. If i could drop 10 degrees with water wetter I would be stoked!
You said you built an aluminum air dam...did you put it where the stock one goes?
I did put a washer in my t-stat housing with a 5/8" hole to help restrict the water in case it was flowing through too fast. I then took the washer out with nothing in the housing and I noticed no real change except longer to heat up to operating temp at idle obviuosly. I am going to remove my front mount IC and drive it to see if it is possibly an airflow issue. If that helps it...I may have to run ducting from IC to radiator to chanel air to it. I am also going to try the water wetter as everyone seems to have good luck with it. I put a bleeder in my top radiator hose to help get rid of air pockets by bleeding there as well. If i could drop 10 degrees with water wetter I would be stoked!
You said you built an aluminum air dam...did you put it where the stock one goes?
Last edited by bpope; 08-24-2010 at 06:41 PM. Reason: I should always proofread before posting so I don't look like I can't spell or use proper grammar.
08-24-2010, 08:47 PM
#20
I popped the bumper off and ran it today. Timed it and bled the system with the front of the car about 4' in the air.
It ran 195 and no cooler. I was expecting it to run much cooler then that with the radiator that exposed. Next step is going to be moving the trans cooler and building an air tunnel for the front of the car similar to what the stock setup up was. This thing is driving me nuts!!!!!
~Jim~
It ran 195 and no cooler. I was expecting it to run much cooler then that with the radiator that exposed. Next step is going to be moving the trans cooler and building an air tunnel for the front of the car similar to what the stock setup up was. This thing is driving me nuts!!!!!
~Jim~