At what RPM should I shift at for best e.t. with my mods?
#3
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Sorry, I don't have a dyno sheet.
Before I put the MAFT on I went 13.48 @ 106.4 with a 2.2 60'. Once I put the MAFT on the SOTP felt better, but I haven't been back to the track (with the car running correctly) to see if the e.t. improved. The reason I'm telling you this is because some one told me my e.t. should have been a lot better and maybe I was shifting too high. I don't know if any of that information helps.
Before I put the MAFT on I went 13.48 @ 106.4 with a 2.2 60'. Once I put the MAFT on the SOTP felt better, but I haven't been back to the track (with the car running correctly) to see if the e.t. improved. The reason I'm telling you this is because some one told me my e.t. should have been a lot better and maybe I was shifting too high. I don't know if any of that information helps.
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You should be much faster than a 13.4 with your mods. Your shifts are probably just really slow, or your having some problems. Some stock LS1's trap 108-109, and you have lid/exhaust/LT's. Id check it out with autotap, and get it dyno tuned if you can afford to.
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Thanks for the replies!
FYI - the first time I took the car to the track it was 100% stock and I went 13.60 @ 104.8 mph with a 2.20 60'. Then I installed the mods in my sig (except for the MAFT) and went 13.48 @ 106.4 mph. I can't say I was happy with either e.t., but I realized my car was probably running rich. So I installed the MAFT and the car felt stronger, but still not where I felt it should be. Then before I was able to take it to the track I developed an exhaust leak, which killed any performance I had. Unfortunately, I'm still trying to locate the leak.
As for shifting, I know I'm not the quickest at shifting, but I think I shift quick enough to rule that out as a cause of my poor e.t.
Thanks again for the replies. It sounds like I should continue to shift around 6k and when I fix my exhaust leak I should get it dyno tuned.
Jim
FYI - the first time I took the car to the track it was 100% stock and I went 13.60 @ 104.8 mph with a 2.20 60'. Then I installed the mods in my sig (except for the MAFT) and went 13.48 @ 106.4 mph. I can't say I was happy with either e.t., but I realized my car was probably running rich. So I installed the MAFT and the car felt stronger, but still not where I felt it should be. Then before I was able to take it to the track I developed an exhaust leak, which killed any performance I had. Unfortunately, I'm still trying to locate the leak.
As for shifting, I know I'm not the quickest at shifting, but I think I shift quick enough to rule that out as a cause of my poor e.t.
Thanks again for the replies. It sounds like I should continue to shift around 6k and when I fix my exhaust leak I should get it dyno tuned.
Jim
#7
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Either get or borrow an A-tap. Without knowing what your engine is doing there is no way you'll know which way to tuned with the MAFT. You can guess but why?
I have been running stock engine for the last 3 years. Shift light is set at 6000, normally shift at 6100. What rmp's are you trapping at? Stock tires? A lot of variables. Are you finishing in 3rd or 4th. Before the rear-end change and with 3.42's if was always, at the 1000'+ that I had to shift into 4th. Didn't even finish at the optimum rpm. By short shifting 1st to 2nd I found I got a little better ET/MPH at the end.
David
I have been running stock engine for the last 3 years. Shift light is set at 6000, normally shift at 6100. What rmp's are you trapping at? Stock tires? A lot of variables. Are you finishing in 3rd or 4th. Before the rear-end change and with 3.42's if was always, at the 1000'+ that I had to shift into 4th. Didn't even finish at the optimum rpm. By short shifting 1st to 2nd I found I got a little better ET/MPH at the end.
David
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#8
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i have my shift light set to 5800 because that 1st gear revs like a mother
so i shift on the light 1-2 but after that i wait a lil biut after the light come on for 3rd and 4th
shift as close to redline as posible
so i shift on the light 1-2 but after that i wait a lil biut after the light come on for 3rd and 4th
shift as close to redline as posible
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David,
Actually I have Atap and my O2s at WOT where around 0.96 before the MAFT. Now, unfortunately, the exhaust leak is making the passenger bank run lean. Therefore, I can't tune the car with the MAFT until I fix the leak, which I still can't find.
As for shifting, I usually shift into 4th gear right before the traps. I don't think I can keep it in 3rd without hitting the rev limiter, but I'm not sure.
Actually I have Atap and my O2s at WOT where around 0.96 before the MAFT. Now, unfortunately, the exhaust leak is making the passenger bank run lean. Therefore, I can't tune the car with the MAFT until I fix the leak, which I still can't find.
As for shifting, I usually shift into 4th gear right before the traps. I don't think I can keep it in 3rd without hitting the rev limiter, but I'm not sure.
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In my dreams, I plan to go h/c and 12 bolt with 4.11's. However, those dreams probably won't come true for a couple of years. So for now I plan to just stay with the stock rearend and gears, but thanks for your input.
#12
i shift at 6200-6300 (auto) your mods will put you in the same boat the prob is you dont know wxactly where that is with the stock tach so id rev limit 6300-6400 and shift at 6000- 6200 the limiter is just in your way if ya cant move it then get right on top the limiter but my dynos said 6300 sould be ideal for the best times for my car on stock suspension i did a 12.6 @113 waiting for new times now with my new suspension