bad2000ss

iTrader: (6)

....this could happen to you.






I just installed a new spohn #405 torque arm and the car honestly feels "ligher on its feet" so to speak. Before the stock torque arm let go i measured the rear angle at +7. Perhaps it was enough driveline bind to feel a difference after the spohn TA was installed to correct the pinion angle.

For those that are thinking about purchasing a spohn TA it is a very nice piece and a strait forward install. We would have had the entire install done in less than an hour if we didn't spend 3 hours grinding down the mounting flanges to fit the 12-bolt. It looked as if the frabricator got the metal a little hot while welding the flange and "bowed" it a bit. My only complaint so far is it hangs pretty low, those with lowered cars will have more trouble. Small price to pay. The bulit in driveshaft loop rests against the stock Y pipe (soon to be replaced) but is 1000X better than the BMR piece of sh*t i wasted $100 on.





While i was taking pictures, i figured i'd snap a few of the BMR POS driveshaft loop and what needed to be done to it to make it fit.




Happy racing everyone. Installing the Jethots this weekend and i'll be back out at California Speedway in a couple weeks.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

i have about 200 passes in the 1.6-1.5 60' range. guess i better knock on wood.

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

i broke mine leaving thunder racing on nittos on the street. just put it in reverse and backed rite back into the parking lot. if only i could get that lucky every time. mine looks just like the one in the pic

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

just like the stock rear, it applies more to us m6 guys

M6HuggerSS

with the mods in my sig would i benifit from a TQ arm? never been on a track yet but like to road race a little......spirited driving you could say!!!!!!!!!

does it really make a differance?

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

will help with traction.

M6HuggerSS

in turns or just straight line and hard launches?

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

probably more on hard launchs due to much less flex, but i still think it would help out with you daily driving traction. between the lca's and the t/a my traction was much better on hard accelerations

bad2000ss

iTrader: (6)

One thing i've definitely noticed right away was braking. The car brakes so much faster with less pedal. I think it has a lot to do with having less nose dive and keeps more of the weight on the rear of the car. I think a road race type car could deffinatly benefit from this torque arm.

gator's 99TA, i believe SMOKIN01TA has the right idea. Obviously launching an M6 it's a lot tougher on the rear driveline than an A4, and shifting an M6 is a lot tougher as well. The torque arm actually broke at California Speedway on a 2nd to 3rd shift and not the launch oddly enough. It might have been weakened at Irwindale 3 days prior. If it had come loose at Irwindale and threw the pinion angle way off, it may explain why i had a 1.71 60' at Irwindale with a crappy burn out, and a 1.84 60' at California speedway with a good burn out. I also trapped 3mph slower in the 1/8 at California than Irwindale.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

I too noticed my sphoon was hard to get on my 12bolt flange, had to beat it in with a rubber mallet
havent got to test it out yet but it is a nice solid piece.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Stock TA here too

I think the title should say... "Make sure the bolts are tight on your Moser 12 bolt"

From what I've seen, Moser's 4 bolt method for attaching the TA isn't well suited for the stock arm becuase people have a hard time keeping the 4 individual bolts tight.

kp

iTrader: (34)

100% true, I did the same thing with my original torque arm because the bolts loosened up on the Moser 12 bolt.

The person I sold my 12 bolt to just ripped off a random tech torque arm mount the same way because he didnt listen to me about checking those bolts

02SSZ7D

still runnin' w/ stocker here also, want a new one, but new rear comes first! someday!

Shon Herron

iTrader: (25)

I have seen an aftermarket TA do that as well. Key is making sure the bolts are tight!

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

it would have to be a really cheap t/a. the plate on my bmr is like 1/4 inch
it aint breakin

kp

iTrader: (34)

Nope, a 1/4" thick random tech t/a mount ripped off just as easy, PM kurtomac here and ask him

Kurtomac

iTrader: (5)

...

Who....me....i swear the bolts were tight .....haha, my mount looked just like that one above...the bolts must have been loose you could see thread marks on the mount where the bolt goes through...the only way those marks could have gotten there is from the mount banging back and fourth on the bolt...the only way that could have happened is if they were LOOSE...got another random tech mount and a new driveshaft and its all good now....BTW use lots of loctite and torque those bolts and check frequently

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

i used lots of locktite on mine. i hasnt came loose yet.

bad2000ss

iTrader: (6)

I used a ton of locktite on the bolts as well. The rear top bolt remained in place when i removed the torque arm. The front top bolt was gone. Apparently on the trip home it must have shook itself loose being the only load bearing bolt left on the top. I probably could have spot welded the bolt in place and it would have found a way out.

Kurtomac

iTrader: (5)

mine had loctite on it as well.....i think the top front bolt was gone and the rear bolt was still in the rear end (probably loose thought) thats how the metal on the mount was ripped like that...still say check frequently....hmm spotwelding not a bad idea