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Optic Armor Install F+R, How To

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Old 01-30-2017, 03:43 PM
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its just the traffic lights and driving when the sun is setting that really screw with you. You can drive in the neighborhood all day and its never gonna effect much. His was a daily driver on nice days and it bothered him too much since he drives all the time.
Old 01-30-2017, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Believe me, it ain't bad anough to worry about, matter of fact next time I pull it out I will try to get some pics.
That would be great if you can capture it on camera
Old 02-11-2017, 10:24 AM
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The rear ended up wanting to lift along the lower lip, the adhesion wasnt great for whatever reason. It either didnt stick to the car, didnt stick to the lexan, or I didnt use enough urethane. At any rate, I had to improvise to ensure it didnt cause damage later down the road.

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I also trimmed the cowl, mostly for ease of intake removal, and added a couple screws in the front glass just for good measure. You can see I left enough material for the stock plastic to be reinstalled and look pretty much as it came from the factory. I had to trim the cowl in multiple pieces (about 10) because I did it while the intake was still installed. It wasn't much fun.

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Old 02-11-2017, 12:10 PM
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You didn't do anything wrong. This happens to my buddies also. It blew out and was flapping in the back on his first pass. I don't think a window exists that can be mounted like stock and it works.
Old 02-11-2017, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by StangEaterSS
You didn't do anything wrong. This happens to my buddies also. It blew out and was flapping in the back on his first pass. I don't think a window exists that can be mounted like stock and it works.
Yeah I wasnt too upset with it, the top is still holding in really tight so Im hopeful that I wont have to add any more screws.
Old 02-11-2017, 03:22 PM
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I did 160mph with the windows down and never had a problem with the rear Optic glass.. Do you have any pics of the glass where it meets the sail panel?
Old 02-12-2017, 06:08 AM
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Here are a couple pics. One is looking through the windshield and the other is a picture of the same thing not looking through it. Make sure you use the glue optic armor sells. Funny thing is its actually covered in dust from sitting all winter. Still looks Crystal clear. You push too hard in one spot, or your car is slightly tweaked from the old one wheel hang and it will distort.
Attached Thumbnails Optic Armor Install F+R, How To-0212170551a.jpg   Optic Armor Install F+R, How To-0212170552.jpg  

Last edited by TTur1996; 02-12-2017 at 06:21 AM.
Old 02-12-2017, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TTur1996
Here are a couple pics. One is looking through the windshield and the other is a picture of the same thing not looking through it. Make sure you use the glue optic armor sells. Funny thing is its actually covered in dust from sitting all winter. Still looks Crystal clear. You push too hard in one spot, or your car is slightly tweaked from the old one wheel hang and it will distort.
Not bad, my windshield is cracked, was thinking about one of these windshields but think I'll get me a cheap $99 thin windshield from one of these windshields for cheap places. It will be lighter than stock.
Now for the back, the Optic is the way to go!
And mine is a track car only. 2860lbs now.
Old 02-12-2017, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TTur1996
Here are a couple pics. One is looking through the windshield and the other is a picture of the same thing not looking through it. Make sure you use the glue optic armor sells. Funny thing is its actually covered in dust from sitting all winter. Still looks Crystal clear. You push too hard in one spot, or your car is slightly tweaked from the old one wheel hang and it will distort.
I did push on it a tad checking the firmness of it.....maybe that did it who knows
Old 02-12-2017, 06:27 PM
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When you install them make sure you us a healthy bead that stays as evenly high as possible. You will need three people. One to hold the middle. The middle needs to touch the glue first lightly. Then the two guys on the sides lightly let their sides down till they touch the glue. Have someone sit in the car and watch for any distortions. Take a soft cloth and start in the middle on the top and bottom and with little but steady pressure slide it right above the glue only from middle out. Same on the sides. We never had to mess with it after installing it like this. But if you see any distortions you can try to push back easy in that spot. But hold around it on the outside. This would have to be done immediately while the glue is still wet. Then don't touch it for at least 24hrs. 48 even better. On the back hatch double bead it on the bottom as far apart as possible. They wont come off. Its very important to let them dry completely.
Old 02-12-2017, 06:42 PM
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The lip on the lower hatch is tiny, and the stock glue basically peeled right off the fiberglass. I think it's a less then ideal situation. The front I have no worries about, it is solid.
Old 02-12-2017, 07:03 PM
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That's weird. Ours was like 5" wide at the bottom.
Old 02-12-2017, 09:41 PM
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4th picture down you can see the lip on the hatch is maybe 1.5 inches wide....and the factory glue peeled right off by hand.
Old 02-13-2017, 09:52 AM
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My rear was the same way. I will be screwing the back one down. The adhesive did not hold very well. My front is screwed in so i am not to worried about it. Mine is clear as day not distorted at all.
Just a suggestion, if you swap out those button head bolt to a countersunk flat head black bolt , or paint the stainless steel black, it allows a much cleaner look. Do not use the black oxide because they will rust, per my chassis guy.

Here is an side window i did for my car.
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Old 02-13-2017, 10:04 AM
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Yep I already figured they may rust, if they do I will paint the heads black or swap them out to something different. And, I did orginally put in a countersunk head but what I realized is its hard to sink the bevel into only 1/4" deep material. I'm ok with it sticking up. Also, boys and girls, DO NOT overtighten them, the lexan will start to crack. Hand tighten only.
Old 02-13-2017, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Yep I already figured they may rust, if they do I will paint the heads black or swap them out to something different. And, I did orginally put in a countersunk head but what I realized is its hard to sink the bevel into only 1/4" deep material. I'm ok with it sticking up. Also, boys and girls, DO NOT overtighten them, the lexan will start to crack. Hand tighten only.
Awesome, and that is a fact on over tightening them. The front windshield in my car was installed on a previous car that was over tightened on a few holes, and the owner wanted a new one, so i got the old at a steal. Just cover it with a sticker and rock on! lol.

As my neighbor says. "If there to worried about how your car looks, your not fast enough."
Old 02-14-2017, 01:58 PM
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So besides original poster is distortion a problem with street driving on the front ones?
Old 02-18-2017, 07:50 PM
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You know I had my front window put in also and it came loose near the motor in the middle. I ordered the new caulk from Optic Armor but havent gotten around to taking it back out to reseal. Im kinda scared of removing the glass.
Old 02-18-2017, 07:55 PM
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Went 100+mph today with the windows half down. Wow, the windshield moves in and out a ton. Back window didn't fly out thank god. Gonna get the window really clean and snap some clearness pics.
Old 02-18-2017, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Went 100+mph today with the windows half down. Wow, the windshield moves in and out a ton. Back window didn't fly out thank god. Gonna get the window really clean and snap some clearness pics.
I mounted my rearview mirror for inspection purposes and it will make you dizzy looking at it. Only thing I look for is red and blue lights....


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