Optic Armor Install F+R, How To
#68
Just my experience, so a sample of one guy 3 cars.. On plastic windows, if you screw them down , and the holes are not significantly bigger than the screws, the normal heat expansion will eventually crack them at least on the sedans I take care of they did. I now use a AL strip that I grind into a curved profile, buff (Paint if needed) and install so they look like a trim piece, I use M6 screws with a M10 hole in the plastic.. M6 hole in the AL strip. Some folks get fancy and make slots for the screws.
Front windows under a 1/4 inch thick NEED support struts.. I blew a 3/16 one in at about a 120 in a turn on a road race course.. Scared the $*%^% out of me.. The screws held it, but the window basically turned inside out in to the car..
Front windows under a 1/4 inch thick NEED support struts.. I blew a 3/16 one in at about a 120 in a turn on a road race course.. Scared the $*%^% out of me.. The screws held it, but the window basically turned inside out in to the car..
#69
In my experience I called 4 big glass places and they would not install my optic armor windshield even after showing them the info stating to install just like glass.
I found a small outfit that was less rule bound and had it done for $100 cash
As for the blurry aspect, yes its clear looking down at the car, but there are a few blurry spots looking through the car. nothing major but if your **** about that stuff it will drive you nuts!
One other thing.... As soon as your done racing remove any window chalk, I have a very hard time removing it after a while and the yellow stuff left a stain in my windshield that cannot be removed!
Other than that it has held up well to scratches but I am very careful not to wipe any dirt across it.
I found a small outfit that was less rule bound and had it done for $100 cash
As for the blurry aspect, yes its clear looking down at the car, but there are a few blurry spots looking through the car. nothing major but if your **** about that stuff it will drive you nuts!
One other thing.... As soon as your done racing remove any window chalk, I have a very hard time removing it after a while and the yellow stuff left a stain in my windshield that cannot be removed!
Other than that it has held up well to scratches but I am very careful not to wipe any dirt across it.
#71
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Understand, i accept things the way they are. This is plastic not glass. That being said the front and rear have both lifted at the bottom and required screws. I was able to hide the front screws under the cowling, the rear are exposed. When the chassis or the hatch flexes it persuades the lexan to lift. I was warned about this by some others when i first installed it. The front glass seems slightly burry, rear seems clear, and the front vibrates over 50mph. You wont get a rear view mirror to stick to it either. Overall it has pluses and minuses, i love how it looks stock from a distance. If i break one, i will replace with chinese glass, still get some weight savings over oem and none of the downsides of lexan.
#78
Yup thats what i thought it was like lookjng through a water bottle. When the car was inside it looked good as soon as i got out and the light hit it it was horrible. I wasted alot of money getting 2 windshields installed but at least summit took the windshield back cause it was defective
#79
Word to the wise if you do get the optic armor get the thicker 3/16 windshield. Mine has literally no flex with windows up. I do get a little flex in the windshield and hatch glass with windows down. Usually roll them down when I'm slowing down from a pass or keep them down while on the street. Only notice that tho when going high speeds. I had an old school glass guy do the install and he was leery at first but they went in without a hitch. New factory trim used also. No separation at all from body yet - knock on wood