SOM_of_a_Beach

I wanna know what my goal should be for pulling the most out of her. I launch at 3,000 rpms & shift right before 6 grand. I have a mound of boxes a home and before they go in i wanna make sure my driving skills are where they should be. By the way, by looking at these sheets how do u know when u have met the limits of your current setup?


I ran:
R/T .270
60 1.932
330 5.436
1/8 8.297
MPH 86.80
1000 10.765
¼ 12.812
MPH 109.99
(I know my r/t sucked )

Current Mods:
160 T-stat
SFC’s welded in
Aluminum Lower Control Arm’s
Pro5.0 shifter
Lou's short stick
3.73 gears
Front sway bar removed
Whisper lid
K &N Filter
Borla Catback Exhaust
Nittos on 16" twisties @ 15 psi

And if I remember correctly my car dynoed about 340 rwhp.

Thanks,

Crystal

gettinthere

iTrader: (3)

Grab some sticky tires. That'll cut down on your 60' time which will change the whole 1/4 time.

SOM_of_a_Beach

Since I am currently using nittos, do u mean like et streets or Comp t.a.'s (or what ever they call em now)?? I am under the impression my stock 10 bolt would go kerplunk with sticky tires.

Within the mound of boxes at home i have some weld drag lites I bought (15x10 rear and 15x4 front) Those will be sporting some bfg's soon enough.

So, could i use the drag lights with bfg's on there with out worrying about my rear?

BAIN

iTrader: (5)

Hmm can't get much better 60's without the possibility of the 10 bolt breaking. On ET Streets more than likely kaboom and I know people on BFG's that broke also. You can risk it if you like, but I wouldn't

ONGRNGO

NO!!! The rear will go break with ET Streets on back with your 10bolt, not good. I broke my 10bolt with my nittos and bolt ons and stock gears cutting 1.8 60fts. I would save for the 9" or a 12bolt then put on some stickies, just my opinion.

As for your times I can see mid 12s pretty easy with some better 60fts. I have got 340RWHP and 351RWTQ in my SS and a race weight of 3450 and run 12.30s at 112 on 1.8 60fts.

Dan

slow3hoe2

iTrader: (3)

Im new to the ls1 thing so i cant be giving advice on the strength of the rear end...but i think a lot of how long the 10 bolt will last is in your driving style.

SOM_of_a_Beach

So, I have the potential to be faster but, by becoming faster that means lowering my 60 ft's. (which could break my rear). To cut your 1.8 60" did u buy a rear?

With my current set up as explained above what could i do differently to bring a down a tenth or two.

I dont know what the race weight is for my transam. Oh and I dont "feather the cluth/slip it" when i launch. Is that something i should force myself to do for a better et?

ONGRNGO

I did a lot of launches before my rear broke. And yes I have a 9" on order and am excited to get it and go racing!

The way I launch on my nittos is do a good 8-10 sec burn out, stage and bring it up to around 3,000 rpm and and launch from there. I release the clutch fast when I do it. and have done a lot of 1.8 60fts. But now that I have the 9" going in I will be launching in at 5500rpm and hope to cut low 1.6 60fts

Dan

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

the 60 foots hold the key to a better (read:lower) ET. You can make the 10 bolt live by adding a rear-end girdle. A buddy of mine still has the stock 10 bolt in his 95 LT1 and it sees low 1.7 60 foots and 12.teens and all he did was a TA cover and changes the ring gear every 2-3 years.

Good luck!

Derek

ONGRNGO

But is it an A4 or a 6spd? A A4 will do 1.6 60fts all day and not break.