New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level!
11-10-2002, 04:04 AM
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New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! Went to the track today, and got 2 passes in before the rain came. Didn't have time to pull anything out of the car, full weight, 3600+ lb raceweight.
I was kinda disappointed at the trap speeds/ET's, until I realized how bad the density altitudes were....
First pass was a 12.0@114, second pass a 11.9@114.....
With the weather conditions factored in, we were racing at the equivalent of 3200ft altitude today. Not condusive for good runs. I ran a conversion table calculation for fun, and my 11.9@114 would have been a 11.5@119mph at sea level with a 0ft (sea level) density altitude. So I guess the car is doing good!?!? I hate using conversion factors and crap like that, but its hard to tell if my car is running good or not out here.
I was on ET Streets, and my aluminum flywheel was killing me off the line. That and I am definately under-geared Even with 6000rpm launches, the car would still bog to 3000rpms after the launch. I gotta do some more feathering to keep the rpm's up. I was only cutting hi 1.7x- to low 1.8x 60 ft times.
I also was having problems with the shifter I just installed. The adjustable stops must not be setup right....hard shifts into 2nd and 4th would make the shifter get stuck......it took a second to get it into 3rd. After both races the shifter was literally stuck in 4th and I couldn't get it to pull out without a lot of force/jiggling.
I know the car has a mid 11 in it in due time and colder weather. Overall I'm pretty happy. Had the pleasure of beating a tricked out fully restored 11 second big block 68 Camaro on my first and only 11 second pass.
My buddy got it on video, I'll see what I can do about posting it online.
<small>[ November 10, 2002, 04:05 AM: Message edited by: verbs ]</small>
I was kinda disappointed at the trap speeds/ET's, until I realized how bad the density altitudes were....
First pass was a 12.0@114, second pass a 11.9@114.....
With the weather conditions factored in, we were racing at the equivalent of 3200ft altitude today. Not condusive for good runs. I ran a conversion table calculation for fun, and my 11.9@114 would have been a 11.5@119mph at sea level with a 0ft (sea level) density altitude. So I guess the car is doing good!?!? I hate using conversion factors and crap like that, but its hard to tell if my car is running good or not out here.
I was on ET Streets, and my aluminum flywheel was killing me off the line. That and I am definately under-geared Even with 6000rpm launches, the car would still bog to 3000rpms after the launch. I gotta do some more feathering to keep the rpm's up. I was only cutting hi 1.7x- to low 1.8x 60 ft times.
I also was having problems with the shifter I just installed. The adjustable stops must not be setup right....hard shifts into 2nd and 4th would make the shifter get stuck......it took a second to get it into 3rd. After both races the shifter was literally stuck in 4th and I couldn't get it to pull out without a lot of force/jiggling.
I know the car has a mid 11 in it in due time and colder weather. Overall I'm pretty happy. Had the pleasure of beating a tricked out fully restored 11 second big block 68 Camaro on my first and only 11 second pass.
My buddy got it on video, I'll see what I can do about posting it online.
<small>[ November 10, 2002, 04:05 AM: Message edited by: verbs ]</small>
11-10-2002, 06:25 PM
#2
Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! Those are good times considering your altitude and the fact that you really couldn't try different techniques with only two passes. You'll get there....you have plenty of HP!
How do you like the aluminum flywheel for street driving? I am thinking about getting one too.
Where you actually launching at 6K??? 4.10's would help a bit.
How do you like the aluminum flywheel for street driving? I am thinking about getting one too.
Where you actually launching at 6K??? 4.10's would help a bit.
11-10-2002, 07:29 PM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! Congrats Verbs!
4.10s will help with the aluminum FW, you should be able to get into the 1.6s with more gear.
What kind of shifter did you swap to?
Justin
4.10s will help with the aluminum FW, you should be able to get into the 1.6s with more gear.
What kind of shifter did you swap to?
Justin
11-10-2002, 10:29 PM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by John B:
<strong>Those are good times considering your altitude and the fact that you really couldn't try different techniques with only two passes. You'll get there....you have plenty of HP!
How do you like the aluminum flywheel for street driving? I am thinking about getting one too.
Where you actually launching at 6K??? 4.10's would help a bit.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">With a big cam the aluminum flywheel sucks. I mean its horrible. The flywheel makes it harder for the car to find idle when I start her up. It also tends to stall when I slam on the brakes hard for a few seconds.....
IACs are fine too. With a smaller cam no problem, JUST NOT with the TR 230/224.
The top end is killer though. Revs really quick at high rpms. Just sucks for the track.
Yes I was launching at 6K, and the car would always bog down to 3000rpms after I hooked. I think I'm gonna launch at 6500 rpms next time. <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
<strong>Those are good times considering your altitude and the fact that you really couldn't try different techniques with only two passes. You'll get there....you have plenty of HP!
How do you like the aluminum flywheel for street driving? I am thinking about getting one too.
Where you actually launching at 6K??? 4.10's would help a bit.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">With a big cam the aluminum flywheel sucks. I mean its horrible. The flywheel makes it harder for the car to find idle when I start her up. It also tends to stall when I slam on the brakes hard for a few seconds.....
IACs are fine too. With a smaller cam no problem, JUST NOT with the TR 230/224.
The top end is killer though. Revs really quick at high rpms. Just sucks for the track.
Yes I was launching at 6K, and the car would always bog down to 3000rpms after I hooked. I think I'm gonna launch at 6500 rpms next time. <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
11-10-2002, 10:34 PM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Jsears8:
<strong>Congrats Verbs!
4.10s will help with the aluminum FW, you should be able to get into the 1.6s with more gear.
What kind of shifter did you swap to?
Justin</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I agree on the gearing thing, but the eventual plan was 130mph traps or so, and I didn't want to be forced to shift into 5th gear, hence the 3.73's. I also do a lot of top end racing, so being able to stay in 4th gear till 143mph is a big plus. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
If i had to do it over again, I would have done 4.10's or 4.30's.
I'm not sure at this point if I want to switch to 4.10's or 4.30's.
The shifter was the Hurst billet pro I believe....not the one that comes in the SS from the factory.
My last one had a manufacturing defect and destroyed my shifter linkage. This was the free replacement, and it too sucks IMO.
<small>[ November 10, 2002, 10:47 PM: Message edited by: verbs ]</small>
<strong>Congrats Verbs!
4.10s will help with the aluminum FW, you should be able to get into the 1.6s with more gear.
What kind of shifter did you swap to?
Justin</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I agree on the gearing thing, but the eventual plan was 130mph traps or so, and I didn't want to be forced to shift into 5th gear, hence the 3.73's. I also do a lot of top end racing, so being able to stay in 4th gear till 143mph is a big plus. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
If i had to do it over again, I would have done 4.10's or 4.30's.
I'm not sure at this point if I want to switch to 4.10's or 4.30's.
The shifter was the Hurst billet pro I believe....not the one that comes in the SS from the factory.
My last one had a manufacturing defect and destroyed my shifter linkage. This was the free replacement, and it too sucks IMO.
<small>[ November 10, 2002, 10:47 PM: Message edited by: verbs ]</small>
11-11-2002, 08:41 PM
#6
Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! Nice times. I'd get 4.30's if I were you. I've got 4.10's now and I think I'm going to change to 4.30's this winter.Congrats. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
Bruce
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11-11-2002, 09:46 PM
#7
Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">With a big cam the aluminum flywheel sucks. I mean its horrible. The flywheel makes it harder for the car to find idle when I start her up. It also tends to stall when I slam on the brakes hard for a few seconds.....
IACs are fine too. With a smaller cam no problem, JUST NOT with the TR 230/224. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This is the first that I have heard of these problems! Justin, does your car do this???
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">With a big cam the aluminum flywheel sucks. I mean its horrible. The flywheel makes it harder for the car to find idle when I start her up. It also tends to stall when I slam on the brakes hard for a few seconds.....
IACs are fine too. With a smaller cam no problem, JUST NOT with the TR 230/224.
The top end is killer though. Revs really quick at high rpms. Just sucks for the track.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">How is your wheelspin on the street? I can't get traction at any speed in 2nd gear! How about you?
IACs are fine too. With a smaller cam no problem, JUST NOT with the TR 230/224. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This is the first that I have heard of these problems! Justin, does your car do this???
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">With a big cam the aluminum flywheel sucks. I mean its horrible. The flywheel makes it harder for the car to find idle when I start her up. It also tends to stall when I slam on the brakes hard for a few seconds.....
IACs are fine too. With a smaller cam no problem, JUST NOT with the TR 230/224.
The top end is killer though. Revs really quick at high rpms. Just sucks for the track.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">How is your wheelspin on the street? I can't get traction at any speed in 2nd gear! How about you?
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11-11-2002, 11:38 PM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by John B:
<strong>This is the first that I have heard of these problems! Justin, does your car do this???
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Some have also suggested the ASP pullies contribute to this as well. I'm not sure why it is still acting the way it does, even after LS1 edit tuning. I may need to compare some notes with Justin if his car runs fine <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by John B:
<strong>How is your wheelspin on the street? I can't get traction at any speed in 2nd gear! How about you?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I run drag radials and a full rear suspension setup on a daily basis. As long as the tires are warmed up from a few minutes of driving, I have no traction problems, not even in first gear. The only way I can break the tires is in first gear, and only if the road is really bumpy, I do a 4K+ clutch dump, or I punch it from a about 3000+rpms. Usually I dead hook every time. However, I've really only had the heads/cam in hot weather so far.....I'm sure once the weather cools down and the streets get colder, it'll be a different ball game. Cold streets + drag radials just suck.
The thing about my car is, I make no more power with the heads/cam below 4000rpm's than I did with my full bolt on setup. The horsepower gains don't begin really until about 4500rpms where I make a measily 12rwhp/8rwtq more than my bolt on setup. Now at 6500rpms however, I make 100rwhp/90rwtq more than I did with just bolt ons. This cam only gives me a small window of power. The only places I pick up at least 30rwhp over the bolt on setup is from 5000-7000rpms.
<small>[ November 11, 2002, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: verbs ]</small>
<strong>This is the first that I have heard of these problems! Justin, does your car do this???
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Some have also suggested the ASP pullies contribute to this as well. I'm not sure why it is still acting the way it does, even after LS1 edit tuning. I may need to compare some notes with Justin if his car runs fine <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by John B:
<strong>How is your wheelspin on the street? I can't get traction at any speed in 2nd gear! How about you?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I run drag radials and a full rear suspension setup on a daily basis. As long as the tires are warmed up from a few minutes of driving, I have no traction problems, not even in first gear. The only way I can break the tires is in first gear, and only if the road is really bumpy, I do a 4K+ clutch dump, or I punch it from a about 3000+rpms. Usually I dead hook every time. However, I've really only had the heads/cam in hot weather so far.....I'm sure once the weather cools down and the streets get colder, it'll be a different ball game. Cold streets + drag radials just suck.
The thing about my car is, I make no more power with the heads/cam below 4000rpm's than I did with my full bolt on setup. The horsepower gains don't begin really until about 4500rpms where I make a measily 12rwhp/8rwtq more than my bolt on setup. Now at 6500rpms however, I make 100rwhp/90rwtq more than I did with just bolt ons. This cam only gives me a small window of power. The only places I pick up at least 30rwhp over the bolt on setup is from 5000-7000rpms.
<small>[ November 11, 2002, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: verbs ]</small>
11-12-2002, 03:35 PM
#9
Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! 2 runs cant really show the potential of your car.. Those are still good times at your raceweight.. Congrats.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
11-12-2002, 05:48 PM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! My car has to warm up a little before it idles smoothly. I have the T/B blade drilled 1/4". I never noticed a difference in idle quality when I switched from steel, to aluminum, back to steel FW. However the revs do fall down quicker with the AL FW when you let off the gas, which casused it to stumble/recover. I would raise your idle speed more if it is that bad.
Justin
Justin
11-12-2002, 07:59 PM
#11
Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> My car has to warm up a little before it idles smoothly. I have the T/B blade drilled 1/4". I never noticed a difference in idle quality when I switched from steel, to aluminum, back to steel FW. However the revs do fall down quicker with the AL FW when you let off the gas, which casused it to stumble/recover. I would raise your idle speed more if it is that bad.
Justin
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Do you have the aluminum flywheel now? How is your traction on the street Justin?
Justin
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Do you have the aluminum flywheel now? How is your traction on the street Justin?
11-12-2002, 08:21 PM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! I have a billet steel FW now, the AL was to touchy at the track, but I did like it on the street. Traction is not really a problem on the street. From a first gear roll I hook, spin when I hit second but thats it. Like verbs said, unless I drop the clutch upwards of 4k then I will not spin. Check out my videos in External, that is a 1st-4th WOT blast. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I am also on 275/40/17 Nitto drag radials.
Justin
I am also on 275/40/17 Nitto drag radials.
Justin
11-13-2002, 10:57 PM
#13
Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> I have a billet steel FW now, the AL was to touchy at the track, but I did like it on the street. Traction is not really a problem on the street. From a first gear roll I hook, spin when I hit second but thats it. Like verbs said, unless I drop the clutch upwards of 4k then I will not spin. Check out my videos in External, that is a 1st-4th WOT blast </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the data point Justin. I really need to do something with my car on the street that's why I am intrigued with the aluminum flywheel.....it's like wet pavement all of the time. I can't get past 1/4 throttle in 1st or 1/2 throttle in 2nd without going sideways.....very frustrating <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />
By the way, what kind of track times have you ran with the alum vs. steel?
By the way, what kind of track times have you ran with the alum vs. steel?
11-14-2002, 10:19 AM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by verbs:
<strong>With a big cam the aluminum flywheel sucks. I mean its horrible. The flywheel makes it harder for the car to find idle when I start her up. It also tends to stall when I slam on the brakes hard for a few seconds.....</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I never had that problem and I was running a larger cam on a tigher LDA than you back in my heads and cam days. Are you absolutely sure thats the reason your car has idling issues??
John B, the aluminum flywheel is amazing on the streets, makes rev matching so much easier and it won't shock the drivetrain nearly as hard either.
<strong>With a big cam the aluminum flywheel sucks. I mean its horrible. The flywheel makes it harder for the car to find idle when I start her up. It also tends to stall when I slam on the brakes hard for a few seconds.....</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I never had that problem and I was running a larger cam on a tigher LDA than you back in my heads and cam days. Are you absolutely sure thats the reason your car has idling issues??
John B, the aluminum flywheel is amazing on the streets, makes rev matching so much easier and it won't shock the drivetrain nearly as hard either.
11-14-2002, 01:28 PM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Fenris Ulf:
<strong>[QUOTE]I never had that problem and I was running a larger cam on a tigher LDA than you back in my heads and cam days. Are you absolutely sure thats the reason your car has idling issues??
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well, according to the installer, no vaccuum leaks,and I check my IAC's all the time and they are perfect. Idle set at 950, but even 1000 doesn't help much, timing raised down low, etc....
The one thing that bothers me is that my timing is really jumpy at idle. It bounces around anywhere from 20-29 degrees, and is never constant.
My buddies who have cams in their cars are able to keep their timing between say 24-26 degrees, and it doesn't vary nearly as much. I wonder if that is a by-product or part of the problem.
<strong>[QUOTE]I never had that problem and I was running a larger cam on a tigher LDA than you back in my heads and cam days. Are you absolutely sure thats the reason your car has idling issues??
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well, according to the installer, no vaccuum leaks,and I check my IAC's all the time and they are perfect. Idle set at 950, but even 1000 doesn't help much, timing raised down low, etc....
The one thing that bothers me is that my timing is really jumpy at idle. It bounces around anywhere from 20-29 degrees, and is never constant.
My buddies who have cams in their cars are able to keep their timing between say 24-26 degrees, and it doesn't vary nearly as much. I wonder if that is a by-product or part of the problem.
11-14-2002, 06:06 PM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! Once you get the 02's replaced and any other small things worked out you should see some higher 11X Mph man. with a 93.xx MPH in the 1/8 that should be good for a decent amount more than 114, like I was saying on AIM. We shall see the 24th <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
11-15-2002, 12:20 AM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! Looks like when i get out there ill have to drive it at the track again. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" />
11-16-2002, 09:09 PM
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by John B:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> I have a billet steel FW now, the AL was to touchy at the track, but I did like it on the street. Traction is not really a problem on the street. From a first gear roll I hook, spin when I hit second but thats it. Like verbs said, unless I drop the clutch upwards of 4k then I will not spin. Check out my videos in External, that is a 1st-4th WOT blast </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the data point Justin. I really need to do something with my car on the street that's why I am intrigued with the aluminum flywheel.....it's like wet pavement all of the time. I can't get past 1/4 throttle in 1st or 1/2 throttle in 2nd without going sideways.....very frustrating <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />
By the way, what kind of track times have you ran with the alum vs. steel?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">John, the reason why you, and I have traction problems is due to the torque that we make down low. I make 362rwtq@ 3000 rpms! I have traction problems in all but the last half of 3rd and fourth. I picked up all across the board with my HC pkg. But, then again, mine doesnt make 440 to the tires. In My world, drivability and tq is better.
Verbs- You will get there! Trust me. Its harder than it looks, thats for sure <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> I have a billet steel FW now, the AL was to touchy at the track, but I did like it on the street. Traction is not really a problem on the street. From a first gear roll I hook, spin when I hit second but thats it. Like verbs said, unless I drop the clutch upwards of 4k then I will not spin. Check out my videos in External, that is a 1st-4th WOT blast </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the data point Justin. I really need to do something with my car on the street that's why I am intrigued with the aluminum flywheel.....it's like wet pavement all of the time. I can't get past 1/4 throttle in 1st or 1/2 throttle in 2nd without going sideways.....very frustrating <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />
By the way, what kind of track times have you ran with the alum vs. steel?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">John, the reason why you, and I have traction problems is due to the torque that we make down low. I make 362rwtq@ 3000 rpms! I have traction problems in all but the last half of 3rd and fourth. I picked up all across the board with my HC pkg. But, then again, mine doesnt make 440 to the tires. In My world, drivability and tq is better.
Verbs- You will get there! Trust me. Its harder than it looks, thats for sure <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
11-17-2002, 01:50 PM
#19
!Dial-up Director
Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! My billet steel FW weighed the same as stock, ~24lbs. It is not an SLP one. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Justin
Justin
11-17-2002, 08:52 PM
#20
TECH Junkie
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Re: New best, finally broke into the 11's, but barely. I need to move to sea level! </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by G2 LS1:
<strong>John, the reason why you, and I have traction problems is due to the torque that we make down low. I make 362rwtq@ 3000 rpms!
Verbs- You will get there! Trust me. Its harder than it looks, thats for sure <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the booster!
I agree with you on the torque thing....I'm sure if I had 4.30 gears instead of 3.73's things would be different, but I don't make nearly that much torque down low. Like I said earlier, I gained 0 hp/tq until 4000rpms with the addition of the TR 230 cam and heads, and even at 4500rpms I only gained 12rwhp/8rwtq over my bolt on setup.
<strong>John, the reason why you, and I have traction problems is due to the torque that we make down low. I make 362rwtq@ 3000 rpms!
Verbs- You will get there! Trust me. Its harder than it looks, thats for sure <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the booster!
I agree with you on the torque thing....I'm sure if I had 4.30 gears instead of 3.73's things would be different, but I don't make nearly that much torque down low. Like I said earlier, I gained 0 hp/tq until 4000rpms with the addition of the TR 230 cam and heads, and even at 4500rpms I only gained 12rwhp/8rwtq over my bolt on setup.