Pros and Cons of !power steering
#1
Pros and Cons of !power steering
Hey guys. I've got a problem. My power steering pump is leaking like a mother, and I don't feel like coughing up the change to fix it. The way I see it, I can live with a little bit harder turn of the wheel in low-speed situations, and it's cheap weight reduction.
The car is a daily driver, and I really don't care about the steering being harder. I don't have wide wheels (16x8), and the car is lightened, with the weight now being under 3500lbs with me in it.
For the record, I'd really like a Madman manual rack, but I don't have the cash for it right now.
What are the pro's and con's of doing this mod on a daily driver, and how exactly would I go about doing it.
The car is a daily driver, and I really don't care about the steering being harder. I don't have wide wheels (16x8), and the car is lightened, with the weight now being under 3500lbs with me in it.
For the record, I'd really like a Madman manual rack, but I don't have the cash for it right now.
What are the pro's and con's of doing this mod on a daily driver, and how exactly would I go about doing it.
#4
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With regular sized tires it sucks in parking lots and taking right turns out of side streets. Not bad with skinnies though. The Pros are the weight reduction, short belt, and the car is much easier to drive when it starts to skate on a slick track.
#7
What do I need to look out for if I decide to go ahead and remove it? I seem to remember seeing something about grinding down the head of one of the alternator bolts.
Also, would it be alright to daily drive skinnies, so long as the tire was a radial with a decent speed rating? I might could look into that.
Also, would it be alright to daily drive skinnies, so long as the tire was a radial with a decent speed rating? I might could look into that.
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#8
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Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
What do I need to look out for if I decide to go ahead and remove it? I seem to remember seeing something about grinding down the head of one of the alternator bolts.
Also, would it be alright to daily drive skinnies, so long as the tire was a radial with a decent speed rating? I might could look into that.
Also, would it be alright to daily drive skinnies, so long as the tire was a radial with a decent speed rating? I might could look into that.
daily driving skinnies is fine. i daily drive mine 90+ miles a day everyday, rain, snow, ice and shine. Just make sure you get the ones that have a MAX psi of 44. there are some that are MAX psi of 36 and those or more light duty.
Another thing if your car is slammed you might wanna rais it up cause skinnies will drop it down about an inch in the front. Skinnies are very delicate when iot comes to your alignment too. if your alighnment is a little off you wouldn't really notice with regular tires but it will wear the skinnies funny.
Another good thing about skinnies is they take 50 lbs off the front of your car, reduce rolling resistance and tires are $60-$75 for two! .
#9
Car is stock height, and the more weight I take out of it, the more it looks like a 4x4.
What wheels and tires are you running for the skinnies? I've seen guys mount smaller size regular radials on skinny wheels. Big Geek (local guy on this board ) does it.
Thanks for all the advice so far SUX2BU.
What wheels and tires are you running for the skinnies? I've seen guys mount smaller size regular radials on skinny wheels. Big Geek (local guy on this board ) does it.
Thanks for all the advice so far SUX2BU.
#10
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I run 15x3.5 Weld Draglites with Metric 165r15 tires. There is no sidewall number for these tires (275/40r17 40 is the sidewall number) its just 165r15.
DO NOT i repeat DO NOT get the 4" wide Draglites. they have a HUGE lip on the inside that makes you have to grind ALOT off your rotors even when you use a spacer. i ground off a good amount to run my 3.5" Draglites without spacers on my stock brakes. i now have aerospace brakes and they bolt right on now, no grinding required.
you can grind a little bit and run a spacer or grind some more and run no spacer (with stock brakes). i suggest running no spacer. it looks better and is MUCH safer. the stock studs are just barely long enuff if you don't run a spacer. And i don't think spacers are NHRA legal anyways.
DO NOT i repeat DO NOT get the 4" wide Draglites. they have a HUGE lip on the inside that makes you have to grind ALOT off your rotors even when you use a spacer. i ground off a good amount to run my 3.5" Draglites without spacers on my stock brakes. i now have aerospace brakes and they bolt right on now, no grinding required.
you can grind a little bit and run a spacer or grind some more and run no spacer (with stock brakes). i suggest running no spacer. it looks better and is MUCH safer. the stock studs are just barely long enuff if you don't run a spacer. And i don't think spacers are NHRA legal anyways.
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oh, How is the belt routed on the Short Belt mod?
EDIT: Is a manual rack lighter than the stock one?. If so.. How light?
EDIT: Is a manual rack lighter than the stock one?. If so.. How light?
Last edited by LC; 02-02-2006 at 08:33 PM.
#14
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Originally Posted by Luis Castellanos
oh, How is the belt routed on the Short Belt mod?
EDIT: Is a manual rack lighter than the stock one?. If so.. How light?
EDIT: Is a manual rack lighter than the stock one?. If so.. How light?
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Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
Hey, SUX2BU, what if I got the 15x3.5's, a spacer, and longer (ARP) wheelstuds. Would that work? I'd like to grind as little as possible.
#19
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Originally Posted by a98ws6
What do I do about the PS cooling lines that went through my upper radiator hose? Can I just put a piece of pipe in place of that metal piece or what? Do they make a hose for the ls1 guys without a PS cooler???