hourang

iTrader: (6)

ok i want my car ready to hit the track for the new race season. this is what i have so far:

98 ss
motor:
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cam(224 111lsa,gold springs,pushrods)
lid
ls6 intake
longtubes
offroady
dumped bullet
tune
nitrous(150 shot tnt, dynotune guage, dynotune warmer, wot sw, fp safety sw, blowdown,tr6 plugs,ramchargers timing controller)
spec stage 3f clutch
ls6 slave
billet steel flywheel

suspension:
=====
lca's
subframe connects
comp eng. rear 3way drag shocks
bmr phr
bmr ds loop

others:
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Moser 9" rear with 4.11's, 4channel and detroit truetrac
15x10 and 15x3.5 weld rims
26x10 m/t et drags
shift light
short stick



things im buying to be ready for track:
=================
spohn adjustable tunnel mount chromoly torque arm with rod ends and ds loop ($$$ ouch)
nitrous steel driveshaft
studs and lugs for rims
front tires (suggestions? was thinking cheap kumhos from tirerack)
rollbar ??who needs that?? lol
line lock???


am i missing anything? im guessing after i have everything my car is gonna be a PIG, with the nitrous heavy rear end, steel ds, rollbar, and my 280lbs ***, anyone weigh their car after all this crap? i dynoed 350rwhp N/A on a mustang dyno on a hot day through a cutout(which im guessing is like 370-380 on a dynojet). anyone have any idea the possible times i can run? with and without nitrous? i need to know what equipment i need so i can pass tech or not get thrown off the track for not having something i need.

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

If your about 3,500lbs and can hook, you should easily go high 10s on the bottle with some seat time.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

man that would be nice. so what do i need in order to meet tech for that? do i need a rollcage or will a 6pt rollbar be fine? i go to an ihra track. honestly ive never had a car that even ran in the 12s, so this is all new to me.

what can i run n/a? my best run to date was a 13.0@109mph with bald azz tires spinning 2.2 60fts, mods were cam, intake, exhaust,clutch and no tune.
im thinking with 9"(4.11 gears), 26" slicks, skinnies, full tune, and suspension stuff im going to be a LOT faster.

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

I run IHRA too and if it's street night the tech should be pretty basic. If you think your going to run 10s they will check for a 6 point (need a cage at 135+mph), driveshaft loop (if your running slicks), fire exstinguisher, belt dates, helmet date, fire jacket, neutral saftey, battery tie down, and a blow down tube on your bottle. Latley I've been getting harrassed about not have solid valve stems and they've been asking about the my flexplate and tranny blanket.

I imagine you should go 12.5 or better now with slicks N/A.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

oh shoot i forgot about belts, so i need a 5 point harness then? gonna have to do some more research... as for the helmet date i have an sn95 dirt bike helmet i usually use would that work? if not i guess i can borrow a track helmet for $5 or whatever it is. and what do you mean by neutral safety and battery tie down? i have whatver stock is, do i need to get anything?

thanks!

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

Your suposed to have a harness with a cage/roll bar. However, I have seen many cars that don't and the techs usually ask the driver to get in the car and put on the stock belt. Basicly, if the stock belt secures them safely without the roll bar getting in the way, they will let it slide. Many techs may or may not do this, with a quick car your chances maybe slim to none. I'm not sure what the exact rule is.

Snell 95 is still good. Just make sure that the helmet isn't trashed. And if you have any stickers on it that didn't come on it, take them off.

Neutral safety is a factory feature, they will ask you to start the car in gear without touching the clutch.

Factory battery hold down is fine. Just make sure you look at it good before you go. The tab on the LS1 hold down is notorious for breaking off which allows the battery to wiggle. This won't pass and it's something that they always look at.

Also if they catch that your running spacers with the 15x3.5s (not sure if you do or not), they will pay close attention to this area and possible pull a lug to make sure that the studs pass through the center of the wheel. Generally if the tech lines are busy they won't bother pulling the lug. They havn't caught me yet.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

thanks a lot gm muscle. i will try not to run a spacer up front, grinding like crazy. ill have to check my battery holddown im sure its fine. but as for the belts, what is the requirement? recommend a place to get it / brand?

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

You'll want to get a 5 point set up. If your going to replace the factory belts with 5 points I would reccomend getting a cam lock set up. It's quick and easy. I've had good luck with my Stroud harness'. The shoulder straps rap around the cross bar, the lap belts use factory mount points (had to open up the brackets a touch), and I used a Wolfe crothch strap bracket for the sub belt. Here's a link, http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=180 .

Ls1LikeNoOther

on spray u might want a 27" tall tire u might run outta RPM with that 26..

hourang

iTrader: (6)

yeah i think i might do with that one i like it, can this be used with a stock seat at all?


yeah i was hoping i wouldnt but just incase i have a buddy that can loan me his 28" tires to make a few passes to see if i need to upgrade.

70Stang

iTrader: (2)

I would say mid 10s EASY.