View Poll Results: how many guys here are running ET Drags Tubeless with rim screws?
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how many guys here are running ET Drags Tubeless with rim screws? (and rimscrew ??s)
02-09-2006, 04:00 PM
#1
how many guys here are running ET Drags Tubeless with rim screws? (and rimscrew ??s) how many guys here are running ET Drags Tubeless with rim screws?
ive never run rimscrews before, but i just scored a killer deal on some bogarts that are already drilled for them.
since the bogarts arnt going to be driven on the streets at all, i figured id go all out and get the softer ET drags instead of the ETstreets i usually run.. but i dont know too much about these rimscrews... the rims are already drilled for them.
if i understand this correctly, the screws themselves dont let the air leak out, since the screw goes into the bead... its sealed. is that correct?
how quick do the ET Drags leak down? is it something i have to check constantly between rounds, or something that happens over a peroid of a couple days? do rim screws make it happen faster?
ive never run rimscrews before, but i just scored a killer deal on some bogarts that are already drilled for them.
since the bogarts arnt going to be driven on the streets at all, i figured id go all out and get the softer ET drags instead of the ETstreets i usually run.. but i dont know too much about these rimscrews... the rims are already drilled for them.
if i understand this correctly, the screws themselves dont let the air leak out, since the screw goes into the bead... its sealed. is that correct?
how quick do the ET Drags leak down? is it something i have to check constantly between rounds, or something that happens over a peroid of a couple days? do rim screws make it happen faster?
02-09-2006, 04:24 PM
#2
They always leak with screws and without tubes, you can use rim sealer, silicone on the screws, the old dishwashing detergent on the inside and whatever and they will still leak down after a while. I have been running slicks with and w/o tubes for over 25 years so I have a little experience.
Sometimes you get lucky and they wont leak for weeks, sometimes they will go flat in a day. Last time I was at the track it was cool out (50 degrees) and I had to add air after every pass, when you get down under 15psi or so it was leaking like crazy. I could hear the air leaking from between the rim and tire. Never had a problem when it was warmer. Put the car in the garage the day after, aired them up to 25psi and they held for a month LOL. I think I'm going to start running tubes again
Sometimes you get lucky and they wont leak for weeks, sometimes they will go flat in a day. Last time I was at the track it was cool out (50 degrees) and I had to add air after every pass, when you get down under 15psi or so it was leaking like crazy. I could hear the air leaking from between the rim and tire. Never had a problem when it was warmer. Put the car in the garage the day after, aired them up to 25psi and they held for a month LOL. I think I'm going to start running tubes again
02-09-2006, 05:28 PM
#4
Originally Posted by kp
They always leak with screws and without tubes, you can use rim sealer, silicone on the screws, the old dishwashing detergent on the inside and whatever and they will still leak down after a while. I have been running slicks with and w/o tubes for over 25 years so I have a little experience.
Sometimes you get lucky and they wont leak for weeks, sometimes they will go flat in a day. Last time I was at the track it was cool out (50 degrees) and I had to add air after every pass, when you get down under 15psi or so it was leaking like crazy. I could hear the air leaking from between the rim and tire. Never had a problem when it was warmer. Put the car in the garage the day after, aired them up to 25psi and they held for a month LOL. I think I'm going to start running tubes again
Sometimes you get lucky and they wont leak for weeks, sometimes they will go flat in a day. Last time I was at the track it was cool out (50 degrees) and I had to add air after every pass, when you get down under 15psi or so it was leaking like crazy. I could hear the air leaking from between the rim and tire. Never had a problem when it was warmer. Put the car in the garage the day after, aired them up to 25psi and they held for a month LOL. I think I'm going to start running tubes again
I don't run many Mickey's though.
Many times air leaks through the wheel itself due to the porosity of the lightweight materials that is used in racing wheels.
Last edited by Maggie; 02-09-2006 at 05:38 PM.
02-09-2006, 05:49 PM
#5
Originally Posted by Maggie
Hummm...I must be very lucky, I've been useing rim screws sence before there were Mickey Thompson slicks and haven't had too much of a problem.
I don't run many Mickey's though.
Many times air leaks through the wheel itself due to the porosity of the lightweight materials that is used in racing wheels.
I don't run many Mickey's though.
Many times air leaks through the wheel itself due to the porosity of the lightweight materials that is used in racing wheels.
Someties you get lucky, sometimes you dont. I have ran no tubes in slicks that held forever and some that would leak overnight. I dont think its much to do with them being M/T slicks, I never used M/T slicks until recently but I have had plenty others leak..
02-09-2006, 08:49 PM
#7
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Last couple sets of 26" Drags were tubeless and screwed. I just picked up my 28" set, will be tubeless and screwless for first couple runs to see whats up.
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02-10-2006, 05:58 AM
#8
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I've had several M/T tires and they all leaked without tubes. I just picked up a set of hoosier tires and they haven't shown any leakdown over a month (before I took the wheels off for the winter).
02-10-2006, 07:54 AM
#9
ok, if i run tubes, where should i go to have them installed? i dont want to pinch the tube or anything, and most monkeys with tire machines have never used tubes..
any tips on where i should look? like boat trailer tire places, or some other equipment that normally runs tubes?
or can you put on drag tires yourself using the old fashion tire iron...? although if i do that, id proby buy the fiberglass tools so i dont screw up my rims....
or am i worrying about nothing?
any tips on where i should look? like boat trailer tire places, or some other equipment that normally runs tubes?
or can you put on drag tires yourself using the old fashion tire iron...? although if i do that, id proby buy the fiberglass tools so i dont screw up my rims....
or am i worrying about nothing?
02-10-2006, 11:36 AM
#10
Its easy to mount them with tubes, I do them at home with tire spoons all the time. Just put a ton of baby powder on the tube, put a little air in it to round it a little, put it in with the tire 1/2 mounted and just be careful and keep the valve stem straight. Its easier to do on the newer tire machines but I change a lot of tires and I have to drive 50 miles one way to my friend's tire place to do it myself so I do it at home a lot. Only bad thing doing it at home is getting the bead popped on wheels that have a hump for the bead..
As a side note slicks with tubes MUST be screwed.
As a side note slicks with tubes MUST be screwed.
02-10-2006, 11:59 AM
#11
Originally Posted by kp
Its easy to mount them with tubes, I do them at home with tire spoons all the time. Just put a ton of baby powder on the tube, put a little air in it to round it a little, put it in with the tire 1/2 mounted and just be careful and keep the valve stem straight. Its easier to do on the newer tire machines but I change a lot of tires and I have to drive 50 miles one way to my friend's tire place to do it myself so I do it at home a lot. Only bad thing doing it at home is getting the bead popped on wheels that have a hump for the bead..
just like changing a bike tire then.... a really big bike tire.. lol.
Originally Posted by kp
As a side note slicks with tubes MUST be screwed.
02-10-2006, 12:04 PM
#12
If the tire rotates on the rim with a tube it will rip the valve stem off. Since they are run at low pressure you need to attach the valve stem to the wheel so you can put air in them with 8psi. Drag tubes have a nut that holds the stem in the hole, tire moves on rim on a ghard launch, tube moves with tire and rips off valve stem on the starting line = having a bad day about mid track.
02-13-2006, 04:29 PM
#13
I don't use MTs, I have the Hoosier 30" X 9" radials, no tubes and no screws. About once a month some drunk will stumble by and explain to me that my tires will slip if I don't put screws in them. I ask "Is the shoe polish line still at the valve stem?". When he says yes, I say "Damn things must slip back to the same spot everytime!" I found a long time ago that if I use only water for lube to pop the bead out, no soap. They don't move, don't leak.
Good luck, Ed
Good luck, Ed
02-20-2006, 08:34 PM
#14
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I am contemplating the screw-don't screw issue as well. 
In talking with a local (Detroit) race wheel shop, it is more dependant on the weight and HP of the car.
The more the car weighs and the higher the HP = more screws (assuming your suspension is hooking the car).
It would seam to me that if the bead is screwed it would require a tube....as the screw initially pushes the bead away and you can't spin the screw once it is bottomed out on the rim. The screw holes are not bigger than the screw diameter are they?
In talking with a local (Detroit) race wheel shop, it is more dependant on the weight and HP of the car.
The more the car weighs and the higher the HP = more screws (assuming your suspension is hooking the car).
It would seam to me that if the bead is screwed it would require a tube....as the screw initially pushes the bead away and you can't spin the screw once it is bottomed out on the rim. The screw holes are not bigger than the screw diameter are they?
02-20-2006, 10:16 PM
#15
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422 ragtop... My old Welds, the holes were drilled out to be a hair larger then the screw, so that the screw could bite into the tire and pull it into the bead. Also, just long enough to accomplish the mission, not go straight thru the bead.
Update, I ran the Bogart w/ the 28x10.5x15 ET Drag and spun the tire on the rim, no soap was used to mount either. So, I will be looking for a Stainless Steel machine screw for the beads, the ones I used on my welds are regular type rim screws and they look like **** compared to the beauty of the Bogarts. Hell, if I could find a Ti screw I'd probably go for that, but closest I think I will find will be SS. I'm going to try 5 screws, spaced in-line with the spokes front and back. I am sure that few should hold well enough. Damn it, I really didnt want to screw the Bogarts.
Update, I ran the Bogart w/ the 28x10.5x15 ET Drag and spun the tire on the rim, no soap was used to mount either. So, I will be looking for a Stainless Steel machine screw for the beads, the ones I used on my welds are regular type rim screws and they look like **** compared to the beauty of the Bogarts. Hell, if I could find a Ti screw I'd probably go for that, but closest I think I will find will be SS. I'm going to try 5 screws, spaced in-line with the spokes front and back. I am sure that few should hold well enough. Damn it, I really didnt want to screw the Bogarts.
10-07-2007, 12:28 PM
#16
I am still up in the air on this. I have seen Ed's car run and it has been years since he wan't carring the wheels 4 feet in the air or higher.
Then again I have a fear of loosing it at half track again and plowing into the car next to me at over 100MPH.
Right now my hoosiers moved first few races then took a set and have not moved in a year. I need to go up to 28s now(hitting 7,200 limiter about 1,100) and I am still going back and forth on this. I just hate the Idea of drilling my Bogarts.
Then again I have a fear of loosing it at half track again and plowing into the car next to me at over 100MPH.
Right now my hoosiers moved first few races then took a set and have not moved in a year. I need to go up to 28s now(hitting 7,200 limiter about 1,100) and I am still going back and forth on this. I just hate the Idea of drilling my Bogarts.
10-09-2007, 10:50 AM
#17
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IMO any 60ft under a 1.6 should have rim screws. I just did mine and I used rubber cement in the holes. Make sure when you screw them in that the screws have a sharp point on them. If its dull you won't seat the bead to the rim all the way. You want it sharp to it does't push the bead away from the rim. When screwing them in I started to hear leaks but after a week none of them leak. However, I haven't ran them yet. I think that A4 cars can get away more so then a M6/M5 car due to sticks hit them harder.
-Mark
-Mark
10-15-2007, 04:15 PM
#18
My rim screws always leak, usually overnight or within a couple days. Always make sure to clean up the back side of the bead for any slag left from drilling, it'll push the bead away from the wheel. I use 8 front & back.
What difference is there in performance between tubes & no tubes?? Does the car react differently?
What difference is there in performance between tubes & no tubes?? Does the car react differently?
10-15-2007, 06:44 PM
#19
My rim screws always leak, usually overnight or within a couple days. Always make sure to clean up the back side of the bead for any slag left from drilling, it'll push the bead away from the wheel. I use 8 front & back.
What difference is there in performance between tubes & no tubes?? Does the car react differently?
What difference is there in performance between tubes & no tubes?? Does the car react differently?