ApacheDrill

iTrader: (21)

What should i be looking for in a trailor for my 4th gen?
Safest way to tie it down?

Just looking for some advice and some lessons learned while shopping around..

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

I got a set of four of these:

click here

The axle tie down strap is built on to the main strap so just wrap around and hook.

lafnlt1

iTrader: (4)

look for at least an 18ft trailer, you will have to tilt the trailer way back to get the undercarriage to clear. also look for a trailer with a dove tail, it helps

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

I agree, but I'd suggest either a tilt OR dovetail. I have one being built now with both, and looking at it (too late to change now that it's already welded) I don't think it'll work as well as just the tilt be by itself.

Carbed4thGen

iTrader: (2)

Plus make sure its wide enough! I borrowed one once to tow my car froma buddy that had a mopar and my tires rubbed the trailor fenders! And that was when I had my 225's on the car

ApacheDrill

iTrader: (21)

What about the fenders with the doors being lower? Any issues?

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

You will likely have issues with that. The concequence of having a low car and low profile trailer. You might have to go in and out the window or rear hatch if the fenders don't give enough clearance. The extra long doors make it a real pain.

ApacheDrill

iTrader: (21)

So suck it up and go "Dukes of Hazard" style, i can handle that

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Well heres some things I've learned owning a low 4th gen and a regular car trailer:

The dovetail helps, but you'll still need to jack the front up to tilt the trailer enough to get the car up.

Buy or build the longest ramps you can, it will make life much easier.

Carry extra sections of 2X8's to help if you're loading/unloading on a funny angle (sometimes happens at the track).

Your doors will probably hit the fenders. Mine did. Heres my trick, because my fat *** isn't climbing out the window: Place a section of that extra 2X8 you're carrying under each rear tire, that gives me about 1" of clearance to open the door.

And if it wasn't for my dual exhaust loading my car would be alot easier.

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

on a budget: 16' with a dovetail will work. I've had two 16' trailers

If you have indoor storage, a simple wood deck trailer will work, and cost less. If you plan to keep it outside, get a steel deck.

if there is an extra-long ramp option, get it.

different brands have shorter/taller side fenders. If there is a removable driver's side fender option, get it. You can also air up your slicks to 35 psi before pulling onto the trailer and typically it will give you another couple inches of door clearance. That means you would have to air them up after you are done racing too.

electric brakes are a must, they sure do make towing much safer.

flip-down jack option is a good one, it will save you time raising/lowering the front.

Tony

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Good straps.

http://www.securetiedowns.com/2%20inch%20Auto%20Tie.htm

I have a tilt back and it is great except when the car brakes. Not fun then. I'm looking at winch options for a tilt back now.

To tie the car down is easy. 2 straps around the rear axle. 2 on the front clipped to the factory tie down locations.

mvonada

Get a set of cheap ramps at the autopart store that are used for changing oil etc. When you get to the pit area put them in front of the rear wheels of the tow vehicle and drive up on them. Your trailer tilts almost like it was a tilt trailer.
And get the longest ramps you can!

Racer8102

iTrader: (12)

I have a 18ft charger with dovetail, built in ex long ramps with the metal deck, and low fender option, I have hauled many corvettes, vipers and my formula lowered with pro-kit and had no problems with doors opening over the fenders. I also use the composit ramps to pull my truck onto for the vipers and some of the lowered vettes. I use the 3" wide ratchet tie downs with axel straps and never had any trouble with all of my adventures. Just remember you get what you pay for, buy a cheap trailer that's prolly what your getting. Be sure and at least have brakes on one axel if not both and get a brake controller in your tow vehicle. Good luck

White2000TA

iTrader: (1)

Anyone got pics? Also wondering if you guys use a wench to pull the car up. 4400+ stall going up a trailer doesnt sound fun :/

kp

iTrader: (34)

If you are looking for an open trailer a 16' will be plenty, stay away from wood decks unless you are really that bucks down. Number one thing is make sure it was built as a CAR trailer. 'Real' car trailers have long dovetailes and ramps plus lower and or removable fenders. Dont ever buy a trailer without removable fenders unless you can check it with your car before you buy.

I wanted tow with my 1/2 ton everyday truck so I wanted the lightest trailer possible (except for a 4500.00 aluminum trailer) so i went with an open deck. I honestly like them better then a full deck since I can check everything out under the car before and after I hit the track. Plus if the car is low its way easier to strap it down. Also an open deck is lighter/cheaper, and weight it a big factor when using a smaller truck I also wanted 4 wheel brakes and LED lights. I can open the doors with no problem with the fenders on but they are both removeable also. This trailer was ~1900 new and its the nicest open trailer I have ever owned (I have had a few opens and several enclosed over the years) and extremely well made. Prices have really gone up over the last couple years and I think this same model is 2300 or so now.

Like several here suggested I just put the back tires of the truck on a pair of those plastic drive up ramps, dont really HAVE to with the long ramps and dovetail on this trailer but the front of my car is very low and it only takes a few seconds to put it on the ramps..

Any 3" ratchet tie downs will work, I use the blue g-force ones now with the built in axle straps.

Car and this trailer is around 4400lbs which is right where I want to be, with an '05 5.3 crew cab GMC I get 13-14mpg towing at 75mph with the wife, kids, generator, tools etc so that not too bad.

98NBMZ

iTrader: (6)

KP...did you get that somewhere local to you or was it an out of state purchase? Really like the looks of that compared to my buddy's full floor trailer.

kp

iTrader: (34)

I bought it from a local dealer, its built in PA but they have a lot of dealers. I looked for almost 6 months for what I wanted. I liked the tilt trailers and came real close to buying a featherlight aluminum but sometimes simple is best and this was a heck of a lot cheaper. They arent as cheap as some but they all come with the LED lights, powdercoated, dual axle brakes and 2 5/16 coupler..

bri-mar.com, CH 16 is the one I have. Box in front I bought from summit on sale for 139.00 a couple years ago.