detroit_903

iTrader: (8)

I plan to relocate my battery to the rear this summer. I was wondering for the wiring. Could I just connect/splice a new wire to the factory (+) battery cable and run it all the way to the back and just wire up a new ground wire in the rear somewhere. Would there be any problems with this set-up. -- Mike

B_Thompson

Thats what I did for mine...I went to an electrical store and bought a lug to tie in all my positive line and just grounded it where the rear seat belts fasten to.

2FAST4U

yeah but that is ugly and when you need to jump start the car you have to go to the back. this is nicer.
Can find one like this on LT1 cars.


http://community.webshots.com/photo/...54690673hFkrRk

ApacheDrill

iTrader: (21)

Why? You can still jump the car off upfront where the red conector is on electric block on drivers side..

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

Your car started all the time grounded to the seat belt post????? Amazing. I had mine grounded there and it gave me nothing but problems..... now i drilled a hole in the trunk put a grommet in and ran it directly to the frame. no more starting issues..

Lost My License

iTrader: (1)

Hmm...don't you need a special little wiring set up so the car knows which battery it is pulling power from? I remember when I turned my 92 Grand Marquis into a rally/off-road vehicle we mounted a battery in the trunk to run all 8 of the lights to keep it charging we were going to do a similar set up to connect the rear battery to the front but we were told by many mechanics we'd have to do something special...wish I could remember what it was...though I remember it not going to be horribly difficult we just didn't do it out of laziness. Anyone have a clue? haha I'm probably wrong.

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

i spliced right into the stock terminal, then wrapped it with the rubber tape you use for splicing service wires out of power lines (like electrical tape but thin rubber) you DON'T want that wire to ground out! it would be very bad i used #2 wire and grounded the battery to a bolt right in the spare tire well, can't remember what was on that bolt to begin with but nothing important. no problems yet whatsoever.

detroit_903

iTrader: (8)

Does anyone have pictures of where they grounded there wire in the rear? Just to give me a good idea of some good places- Mike

mvonada

Ditto on the need for pics!

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

no pics-

in the spare tire well, take the spare out and find the base of the power antenna. then look towards the front of the car about 8". it is a black bolt, about 12-14mm head, holding some black electrical box to the wheel well. if you mount your battery box where the spare used to be your ground will be about 12-16" long.

your welcome- i actually went outside to look for you guys.

btw, battery relocation= 30lbs off of the front and into the rear= 60lbs of weight transfer. helps it hook alot- all i have done to make my car hook is that and !front swaybar. check out sig pics

76LS1BIRD

iTrader: (35)

This is my 98 TA. Ground is on seatbelt stud, also note 200A fuse.

I made this to hook cables to in the stock bat. tray.This makes going back
to stock easy. Its made from lexan,brass& SS hardware.

More bat. info
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/388581-battery-relocation.html
Dale

2FAST4U

Yeah a battery isolator. It has 3 posts on it one is alternator in and then the other posts are out to each battery. so they both charge but whatever runs on one batt. and kills it and the car can still start with the other batt.

StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

here's my set up.

ApacheDrill

iTrader: (21)

I have posted this up a few times but here is my setup..Used the Taylor Box and Taylor instal kit.. I also ran my kill switch at the same time out the rear panel

lafnlt1

iTrader: (4)

ok, the guys that just wire the cable from the back to the factory one is wrong. if you shut the switch off while the car is running, it will stay running. you need to run 2 cables, one to the alternator only that connects to the battery, "connected at all times", then the other cable from the switch to the junction up front to power the rest of the car including the starter. of course there is a short cable from the battery to the switch. the ground just goes to chassis ground. this is the proper way to do it. this will shut down the car when it is running. some tech guys at tracks will check this, most will not.

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

I have a pic for you..... It's of my fuel system but if you look in the upper right side of the picture you can see where the black cable terminates...... It's actually the mounting point for the clamp that holds up the over axle pipe of your exhaust system.... If you loosen that up you can possibly get the negative battery lug over the hole then tighten it back up.... Probably the best mounting point for the negative battery directly to the frame.... I had the seat belt post as the ground but had massive starting problems.... And I'm using huge cables so that wasn't the problem...

LAFN-can you expound on your wiring setup so the kill switch will "kill" the car and shut it off???? I kinda understood your setup but wanted more details... thanks....

here's the picture..

lafnlt1

iTrader: (4)

it's really hard to explain without showing you with a wiring diagram. but here is another way to describe it with the way you have it run. run your set-up just like you have it, the only change you would have to make would be to remove the factory cable from the back of the alternator B+. run another large cable 0 or 2 gauge from the back of the alternator, "this is the only connection to the alternator", right to the positive battery post of the battery. this will shut the system down.

the way you have it run, if the battery is disconnected, the alternator now feeds the rest of the system, keep the car running. when you shut off the switch with the way i have it run, power in the main system would shut off including the exciter wire to the alternator which then shuts off the alternator from charging, without 12v to that little wire in that connector on the alternator, no power is made. the only disadvantage is that the alternator cable is always hot, power all the time but does not effect the main electrical systems in the car.

i will see if i could draw a diagram if you need.

hope this helped a little

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

Okay I kinda got it i think....

My old setup I think when the car was less modified but had a rear battery install when i was trying to get rid of my starting problems was this...

positive cable running from battery directly to starter.
cable running from starter post to back of alternator
back of alternator to post on shocktower....

I'm pretty sure that was the arrangement.... closely setup to the bone stock arrangement when the battery was up front.... So that wouldn't kill my system by turning the switch to off cuz it never did when i'd turn it.... always couldn't understand why.... I hate electrical work....

So you are running two large cables to the front of the car versus one???? Or can I just take the cable that comes off my battery and goes up front and instead of going directly to the starter go to the alternator???? And then i can put another wire on that same post that goes to the starter????

lafnlt1

iTrader: (4)

basicaly like i said before, take the cable off your alternator and run a new one straight to the post on your battery from the back of the alternator. this cable only connects the alternator to the battery directly and does not connect to anything else.

i run 2 0 guage cables, also don't forget to run a good size ground to your engine block, some people tend to forget and that will cause starting problems. i also run 0 guage cable for the engine ground.