SSWS6

Only ran my T/A once, but with bad wheelhop on crappy tires I ran something like 13.xx at 111 with a horrible 60' like 2.2 or something. Got some 17x10.5s on Nitto DR's on the way and I now need some chassis/suspension mods. I planned on starting with BMR LCA's, torque arm, torque arm relocation brackets, Strange rear adjustables, and BMR SFC's. However, I'm hesitant to order LCA's with poly bushings, and not just because of squeaking. I read an article that says when poly bushings are used the suspension doesn't work properly since trailing arm suspension requires deflection as the solid axle moves to comply with uneven surface. And using poly bushings will result in the bending of the arms, mounting points, and flex of the rear tires. And that stronger LCA's combined with poly bushings will affect the roll stiffness of the car (turning the axle into an second swaybar) and transfer the twisting forces into the LCA mounting points on the chassis and axle. How true is this?

And what would you guys recommend as far as what mods I should get to get this thing down the track fast and straight? FYI this car is gonna see 75% street duty and is currently stock except for bolt-ons and DR's. Any input is appreciated.

98REDZ

iTrader: (3)

my advice, run a better tire than a Nitto.

SSWS6

BTW, I have already searched and read all the stickies. And please don't post just to say you have aftermarket LCA's with poly bushings and haven't had a problem. That doesn't really mean much.

SSWS6

Ya eventually I will be getting some BFG's or MT DR's but Nittos are the most streetable and have the best tread life from what I've heard. Plus my car is at best low 12s maybe high 11s so Nittos should be good enough. Right??

Jakes Dad

Damn - THE BEST WE CAN DO FOR THIS GUY IS TELL HIM TO CHANGE TIRES?

Isn't the key here the guy only ran his car one time?
Did he mention his rpm launch?
Did he mention his tire pressure?
Has anyone ever run on the same track? ie all tracks aren't the same. No two lanes are the same. The track grip changes with each run. If the guy came to the line after a bunch of street tired cars ran there was perhaps no rubber on the track.

Guy - In my opinion the next money your should spend is for a return trip to this track, please provide the name, or a different track close to you. Unless you are real damn good - please try again. I know of few racers that made the ideal run the first time out.

AN OLD MAN AND HIS DOG!

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

I agree with Jake's Dad. We need mopre detail. I would be happy to talk with you if you want. I don't think you are close to a purchase at this point. Any conversation I would have at this point is for information only.

BMR Suspension

iTrader: (6)

Give me a call here at the office and I will see if I can help with your combinaton.

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

why wouldn't that mean much? I have aftermarket lca's w/ poly bushings amd haven't had a problem. Mine is street driven as well.
Low 12's high 11's??-you're not even out of the 13's yet.
98redz just said to get a better tire than a Nitto-why are you asking if they are still going to be ok for this fantasy low 12 high 11 sec pass?
2.2 60' is absolutely horrible and basically gives us no information to even begin to guide you, like Jakes dad said, get back to the track and actually pay attention to what the car is doing and come back here with some info and an open mind.
Calling one of the sponsors that replied wouldn't be a bad idea either.
I don't usually reply this way, I just don't like you so far.

-Mark

Jakes Dad

Thanks to the sponsors reading the thrends and taking the time to respond.

I've never looked on any of these Sponsor pages. But, from what I've read I think the knowledge is here. I often wonder why thats not the first place people go when they have a question or problem. If something works you buy it, use it, figure out how it works. Set back drink a beer or two and think how it might be improved. If you're the lucky guy that figures that out you might become a record holder.

I, take my dog my chair and my cooler to my local track EVERY THURSDAY for test and tune. I pay moeny to watch every silly *** that pays money to race. If you run your best I got my moneys worth. If you blow at the tree. experience wheel hop, miss a gear - welcome to the club. The important thing is what are you going to do next?

Everyone can't hold records. Congats to anyone that does, all of those still trying. When Steve Turley and Mike Brown drive past the dog and I, on Thursdays. I've taught the dog to bark out of respect. Records don't come over night. Very few folks, I've seen it done though, can build a car, have an accident, work out the bugs, and set a record in less than 90 days. Their walking among us. Take advantage of them.

An old man and his dog!

SSWS6

I went to Sacramento Raceway on street night. Went on heavy 19" wheels with crappy nankang rubber at around 35 psi. Launched at idle, got a bit of wheelhop, and shifted at 6,200. The car got a little squirrely on the 1-2 shift, and no power shifting here. Sorry, this is best as I can remember as its been a while. The car rode straight down the track though. So besides getting no traction at all with the tires I had, the only problem I noticed is the wheel hop.

Basically I just took the car for a fun run and I wanted to see my trap speed so I could at least get some kind of idea of what the car could do with some grip. I agree that I need to get the car back on the track as much as possible, but there's no way to run a decent pass with my current tires. But now that I got DR's on the way thats what I plan to do time permitting. Keep in mind test-n-tune here is Saturday morning and I usually work. But I hope to make it to street night every other Wednesday, which starts next month.

The reason I'm asking these questions is because I just want people's opinions on what the best setup is for an F-body at full weight with similar power ouput as mine. Now that I'm getting DR's and might actually get to see what the car can do with some grip the next step most likely is chassis/suspension mods. And the way I figure the more time I have to think about it the more likely it is I will end up with a setup that I'm happy with. Why am I getting flamed for thinking ahead?

Jakes Dad

You're net getting flamed. If you took anything I said as a flame, I am sorry.

Let me put my answer another way. You joined the board in 2006. Since then you've made 153 posts and one trip down the track in this car. Are we on the same page so far? I am not flaming you, I am stating YOUR HISTORY.

Two sponsors responded offered to assist you. We should support our sponsors. Other people felt you needed to spend money. Until this last post no one except you had the facts. I think there were foks interested in assisting you. In one year many of these sponsors made over 153 passes in their race cars. Watched as people with their products made thousands of passes, some even setting records. Everyone of these sponsors customers have PERSONAL RECORDS. Still not a flame yet!!!

Here is an example of what I think is a flame. Rick at Synergy Motorsports tuned your car. He has seen your car should have driven it. Instead of coming here and not providing enough information about your car to provide a good answer to your question.

Why the hell didn't you ask him your questiom?

An old man and his dog!

p.s have a great day and good luck with your problem. no need to flame me I wear fire protective gear. no need to beat my *** because you won't be the first...

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Just be careful, I don't see anything saying you have an after market rear end, and with a 6 speed I personally know you can hurt the rear end pretty easy once you start getting sticky tires and trying to leave with more rpm.

As far as the wheel hop it could be the tires spinning, shocks that need to be stiffer or you might need some relocation brackets if the car is lowered to lower the mounting hole point on the rear end.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

you want an m6 car to hook. pull the front swaybar and install aftermarket LCAs and possibly a set of subframe connectors. a torque arm is a must.

you need a lot of sidewall and a sticky tire. might i suggest a 15" wheel with a m/t et street at minimum. start @ 15 psi and work your way down. you also need some ***** to drop the clutch on that 10 bolt, because the aforementioned setup will make a little bitch out of it.

SSWS6

The T/A has only been to the track twice actually. Once when stock and once after mods were done. When I first joined here I had a M6 LS2 GTO that I would race, but it was totalled. Haven't had the TA all that long.

I definetly plan on going to the sponsors for both info and when I'm ready to purchase. I just wanted to get people's opinions here first.

Actually I asked Rick what he thought and he didn't give me much feedback. He told me to concentrate on upgrading the drivetrain.

Don't have a aftermarket rear end but that may be an issue with DR's. Maybe I'll just wait till the 10-bolt breaks. I have a 2nd car.

My car's not lowered but I plan on lowering it so I will probably just go ahead and get relocation brackets and panhard rod

Thanks s346k, thats the kind of info I was looking for.

So whats the verdict on poly bushings??

zrocket_99

iTrader: (2)

if you get the nitto's, make sure you heat the **** out them bastards.

SSWS6

Should I back into the water box with those Nittos?

zrocket_99

iTrader: (2)

ya just to get them wet , then pull out of it then let em loose, but do about a good 18sec. 20 sec. burnout with those, or else they wont hook good

s346k

iTrader: (4)

i honestly don't know about the poly bushings - but i managed to put a few cracks in the driver's side LCA that was on my a4 car. spohn LCAs that had poly bushings - i left it alone and made 50 more sub 1.7 launches on it with no problems. i was at near-stock power levels, as well.

SSWS6

Ok thanks for the info everyone. I'm getting my wheels and tires Thursday. Hoping to go to test-n-tune Saturday if it doesn't rain.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Thats how I would start but with the 6 speed don't be suprised if your 10 bolt does not last long with high RPM dumps.

Get a set of 15 inch wheels like a pro star wheel. If you don't plan on making a ton of power for a while maybe go with a 15X8 wheel and matching ET Street (what I have). The other day I was told that a M6 and drag radial is a no no, go slick or ET street for the track. Keep the nittos for the street or something.

After you do that go to the track a few weeks, it took me like 8 runs jusst to drop from a 14.0-13.9 in my last car and almost broke 13.8 5 runs later.

Get your best time after a few runs then start to drop the tire pressure untill it starts to slow down then go back up with the tire pressue than after that look at a torque arm, SFC' s, lower control arms and go back out, then keep adding on. Just remember your 10 bolt.

Track time then tire is key right now if you ask me.

I have the billet rod ends on my LCA's and panahrd rod if that answers your question on the polly.