Drag Racing Tech
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Battery Relocation Help (starts, then doesn't)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-22-2007, 02:15 PM
  #1  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default Battery Relocation Help (starts, then doesn't)

This week I moved my optimum Red Top to the passenger side rear fender well.
I used 1/0 (aka 0 guage) from the battery to the starter post, from the same starter post I ran 4 guage from the starter to the back of the alternator, from the back of the alternator I ran 6 guage to the positive Junction box (pink box) I grounded the car in 2 SPOTS the rear and from the block to the bodies from rail (up front of course)

Here is what is confusing?
When I try to start the car the first time it starts FINE, then I kill it and try to start it again maybe a few seconds or after about 30 seconds later and I hear the fast clicking sound (starter.)
This car is my daily driver and I need it by this weekend, does anyone have any suggestions??
Old 03-22-2007, 04:26 PM
  #2  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
87Lt1Monte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Huntingtown, MD
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Is your alternator charging the system? I know my dad in his older firebird had a problem where it would not charge. How many volts does your battery have afterward?
Old 03-22-2007, 05:07 PM
  #3  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

I don't know I haven't checked, I need to go get a Volt meter and check the Alternator. What did your dad DO???
Old 03-22-2007, 09:25 PM
  #4  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
 
LTLHOMER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by T/A KID
This week I moved my optimum Red Top to the passenger side rear fender well.
I used 1/0 (aka 0 guage) from the battery to the starter post, from the same starter post I ran 4 guage from the starter to the back of the alternator, from the back of the alternator I ran 6 guage to the positive Junction box (pink box) I grounded the car in 2 SPOTS the rear and from the block to the bodies from rail (up front of course)

Here is what is confusing?
When I try to start the car the first time it starts FINE, then I kill it and try to start it again maybe a few seconds or after about 30 seconds later and I hear the fast clicking sound (starter.)
This car is my daily driver and I need it by this weekend, does anyone have any suggestions??
I'm kinda confused by the whole thing. You should have the alternator run back to the cold side of a kill switch. If you don't have a kill switch (which you need to be track-legal with a remote located battery), then I guess you can run it to the front post like you mentioned.

I don't know what you're talking about as far as the alternator wiring goes though. Basically the alternator has two wires. One which 'turns it on' known as the exciter wire which is very small gage. The other runs to wherever you want to send the power to (battery, starter post thing, whatever). You should only have a single wire coming from the alternator.

Draw me up a schematic of what you're talking about and I'll take a look.

SeanSimpson1@gmail.com

Hope that helps,
Sean
Old 03-22-2007, 09:41 PM
  #5  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
 
Tony Shepherd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Round Rock TX
Posts: 2,913
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

That has to be a ground problem. Make sure the negative side of the battery has a very good ground in the back. This happend to me one time and I made a better ground for the battery and it solved the problem.
Old 03-22-2007, 09:52 PM
  #6  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Well I am not worried about being legal at the track since I rarely go so, this is mostly just a Fun street car. I can come up with a diagram showing how I routed everything, Hell I can get real pics if that would help its on the lift right now.

That has to be a ground problem. Make sure the negative side of the battery has a very good ground in the back.
Well I possibly thought that as well but it starts fine the first time and then doens't a feel seconds later. If I wait about 5 minutes it cranks right back up fine again, lol.
In the back I can get a Pic but I took a Grinder to the metal and got it down to bar metal??
Tony did yours start the first time then not the second like mine.

Thank you guys for helping me so much.
Old 03-23-2007, 01:06 AM
  #7  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
 
TwoFast4Lv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Posts: 10,023
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts

Default

I second the Ground Issue
Old 03-23-2007, 05:00 AM
  #8  
EPP
FormerVendor
iTrader: (22)
 
EPP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 13,063
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I'll also say it is a grounding problem. Bob
Old 03-23-2007, 08:11 AM
  #9  
11 Second Club
 
Bitemark46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

+2 on the ground issue. But I think your wiring may be wrong. The positive wire should be coming from the positive battery post directly to the alt. Here is a diagram on how it should be wired. If you are not running a kill switch just overlook that section but this should help you get the jist of it.

-Mark
Attached Thumbnails Battery Relocation Help (starts, then doesn't)-batt-relo.jpg  
Old 03-23-2007, 11:06 AM
  #10  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Ok guys here are some pics (excuse the dirty engine me and her has some miles between us) and I am not worried about being legal at the track with a Cutoff switch, this is just my fun street car. If I ever get kicked out I get kicked out a lot of our tracks are pretty cool though.

Here is the pic of the battery located in the rear where you can see where I grinded the rear panel to take it down to metal, my finger is pointing to where I ground the negative cable in the back.

Here is an actual pic of the Ground I connect it to


Here are a Few pics of where I Route it under the car




Here is where I connect the 1/0 guage from the battery to the starter and then I connect the 4 guage from the starter to the Alternator


Here is the 4 guage wire going up to the back of the alternator from stater


Here is the Second ground. Its from the Block to the frame

Here is where it connects to the Body
Old 03-23-2007, 12:21 PM
  #11  
9 Second Club
iTrader: (23)
 
tektrans's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I had to get a voltage regulator. Have you driven it around yet?
Old 03-23-2007, 12:51 PM
  #12  
JUICED96Z
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Might wants to pull those grounds and make sure they are clean. No paint, bare metal.
Old 03-23-2007, 01:37 PM
  #13  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Pulled the grounds and cleaned everything up and I put a New starter on the motor (autozone LT1) The old one passed ever test but I got a new one anyway. Went to start the car and it didn't even start this time???????

My old man told me to run another cable from the battery to the motor???? I have never heard of anyone doing this, I may try to run another ground from the stater bolt (connects to block) to the body???
Old 03-23-2007, 01:45 PM
  #14  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
87Lt1Monte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Huntingtown, MD
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Did you ever find out if you were charging that battery? When **** clicks several times in a row every time ive heard that it meant low charge. Are you sure you have an "Exciter" wire to allow the Alt. to charge the system?
Old 03-23-2007, 02:39 PM
  #15  
11 Second Club
 
Bitemark46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

The problem is solved it the wire goes from alt to the pos battery post. They way you have it is that you are trying to charge the battery through the starter. -Mark
Old 03-23-2007, 10:05 PM
  #16  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

I have a 6 guage wire coming from the Alternator to the Positive Junction Box if thats what your asking.
Took the battery to see if everything was ok, past with Flying colors
Old 03-24-2007, 02:10 AM
  #17  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Noticed the New starter has Copper style Threaded connection end at it is Striped . Plan to take it back tomarrow andget another one or possibly get my money back and buy something different . The bolt would turn when I had everything on it but would not Tighten, When I went to start the car my brother wiggled it and it acted like it wanted to start???

I changed my ground in the back to the larger bolt on the quarter panel, the one right behind the seatbelt holders when you do the delete for the rear seat.

Does it sould like I have enough Grounds???
Old 03-24-2007, 01:59 PM
  #18  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

I went to get some 1/0 guage (about 14 feet) and ran it from the starter along side the positive wire and went right to the Block. Startered the car and it cranked right up, Then I killed it and I then started it right back up, I killed it again and it didn't start the 3rd time then I decided to try again and it started right back up. All of this was within about a 25 second span.
My old man told me he thought it was fine and that I should not try restarting it so much one after another so I suppose if it starts first click everytime don't worry right?

I do have one question ON the same post where I mount the 1/0 guage from the battery to the block I have a 6 guage wire from that same post to the body. I have some left over 1/0 guage that I am thinking about putting there in its place what do you guys think???

Again thanks for helping guys.
Old 03-25-2007, 05:48 PM
  #19  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Here is the new setup,
0 guage from battery to starter
0 guage from battery to block (Ground)
4 guage from starter to alternator
6 guage from alternator to junction box
4 guage from block to frame (Ground)
4 guage from starter bolt to frame (Ground)

Car starters about 4 times out of 6. Any thoughts guys???
Old 03-25-2007, 07:58 PM
  #20  
Restricted User
iTrader: (35)
 
76LS1BIRD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Hanover PA
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I made up this block to make moving battery easy.
Everything is hooked to the stock cables
This is bolted in the bat. tray

I also added 200A fuse on - cable.
Dale


Quick Reply: Battery Relocation Help (starts, then doesn't)



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:52 PM.