FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Thinking of changing my converter.

Car is 3800lbs, makes 470rwhp through a 4L60E. 4.11 gear.

Best 60ft so far is a 1.51, best MPH 124. On 325/50 MT drag radials.


The converter is huge, heavy as hell with a big billet anti ballon plate and double disc lockup clutch. It is made by a company called TCS(The converter shop) Stalls 3500 on the footbrake and flashes to 4200

At some point a 200 shot of spray will make it under the hood.


Reccomendations welcome.


Thanks

David

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I'd keep that converter for spray. I'd go with more stall speed for all-motor performance.

ALLMOTOR346CI

iTrader: (2)

X2 im with him on this 1 just leave it...

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Leave it in there, converter's are a funny thing, sometimes what you think will work really doesn't work for ****, and sometimes stuff that shouldn't work does work great. I have a 9 inch converter that goes to 5400 on the brake and on a 150 shot it worked out pretty good, with some more weight out of the car the effeciency at the top end should almost be at 95% which is pretty good from what I have seen. KP on here runs an 8 inch 5500 converter, the one that all the fast cam only cars were using, with his procharged 402 now, you'd think that would be way too loose, but he's having great success with it, I know other people with similar cases.

Don't just change it, try it first.

Tireburnin

iTrader: (42)

I agree with the above post. Try it first.

With that said, I had bad luck with a TCS converter. It was fairly cheap and ended up comming apart. I moved on to another cheap converter company and got the same results (a new th400). Moved on to a reputable company.

Live and learn, buy the best you can afford. You get what you pay for.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I agree with tireburnin.... you get what you pay for when it comes to converters. I am not suggesting spending 3500 on a bolt together Neal Chance for your application, but buying a 400 dollar converter, well you are gonna get a 400 dollar converter. Personally I run a converter built by ultimate converter concepts located in CT. After you try what you have if you're not satisfied with the results, Give Ultimate a call, talk to Lenny. They have some specific drag radial converters as well as a wide array of other options, I'm sure they can get ya going.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

This one for SURE was not cheap, like $800...its a BAD *** ****. WIsh I had a pic of it. You could drop this thing out of a plane and not hurt it. Big billet steel anti-balloon plate....double disc Kevlar lockup clutch etc....well it is impressive to LOOK at anyway.

It was pretty effecient on the dyno, 441 unlocked, 463 locked.

I will keep piddling with it, I have yet to fully stall the car at the track yet, I have been leaving the line at about 1800 to 2000 rpm.


It will stall 3400 ish on the footbrake, I have made it stall 3500 on the street but it is hard to keep it still.

David

Vortec355

I would run what you have first. I loosened my Hughes 3500 to 4000. Worked great all motor, but a 150 shot sent it to 6500 and I shift at 7000!!! I had to go back to a 125 shot and it seems to work well only going to 5800. I should have left the converter alone. I guess it's a learning experience.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Get a transbrake and spray the **** out of it

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried just flashing it off idle without building any rpm? I just floor mine off idle and it 1.52s every time...I tried playing with building rpm but it did not help any at all...With my set up it seems to launch better with the suspension at rest with no loading...As long as you have good throttle response I'd try that route...

--Alan