noah89

M6 with 4.11's. What gear do I use for my burnout. I've been on street tires, but now I'm going with the MT street DR's. I've reasonable power, but I can't get into the twelves. My best 60 ft. was 2.10 with a 13.17 ET at 110 mph. Besides getting rid of my crappy driver(ME), I figure DR's should bet me into the 12"s. Thanks.

Irunelevens

Depending on the drag radials you use, 1st or 2nd gear... if they don't need to be warmed up too much use 1st gear, and if you need to get them pretty hot use 2nd gear for 3-4 seconds. Good luck, and go get that 12s timeslip

landonew

Why 2nd gear. My shop said I would probably need to do 2nd gear burnouts, and i was just wondering what the advantage is?

99.9percenter

iTrader: (2)

2nd gear makes the tires spin faster at the same engine RPM. Correct procedure for a manual trans car is 3rd gear. When I tried it (3rd) on a stock clutch 4th gen Camaro the Clutch slipped badly. So it was just 2nd for the stock clutch with drag radials. But third will be used when clutch is upgraded.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I don't think you have to use 3rd, 2nd should be fine. Get the car in the water, spin the tires a quick revolution in the water. On the edge of the water stop, set the line lock, put it in 2nd and rev to about 4500, and pop the clutch out fast, and get in the gas as ya do it. Once the tires are smoking good for about 3 seconds, turn off the linelock, and POWER thru the burnout up to the staging lights. That's how I used to do it, aalways seemed to work.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I don't do the same things as some people, as far as how I did my burn out in my car, I drove through the water box, I don't spin the tire in the water ever, it can leave water on the wheel well that'll drip on the slick when you're stagged, I drive through the water and get lined up on the damp spot, then hit the line lock, rev the motor and get the tire spinning to 5500, shift to second gear and hold it about 5k, then let off the line lock and let it start rolling forward, then get off the gas and hit the clutch and brake and slow it down when it starts to roll out and then line it up, activate the 1st light and wait for the guy I'm running if he is still burning out, when he hits his first bulb I check the gauges and stage, if he is already there and staged, I roll up hit the first light check my gauges and stage, then get ready to let it rip

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

I do similar burnouts as the rest. Drive though water box, set line lock, rev and dump clutch in 2nd gear, wait until the thick white smoke comes out, let off throttle, push in clutch, no dry hops (it does nothing), roll to the line, and stage.

dochall22

iTrader: (6)

do you guys do a dry hop? I do a burnout, roll out a lil - then i come to a stop - do a semi launch to check everything out and then stage...??

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I think dry hops are useless.

billybadd

iTrader: (21)

Z-RATED94

iTrader: (6)

Yep, just a little extra wear and tear that adds up over time.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

with the engineer from M/T, provided the following info:
1. Tires should be run at their max psi, before et's suffer.[various psi tests required]
2. Tires should be 10-15* hotter than the track surface.
3. Dry hops are NOT recommended, as it removes the sticky rubber that was achieved w/ the burnout. [Oils in the rubber are brought to the surface when the burnout is done, causing the tire to get sticky.]
4. The tire mfgrs LOVE those long, crowd pleasers! It sells LOTS of tires, well b4 their time is up!!
Your choice: Either "wow" the crowd, or put a smile on your kisser, when you get the time slip!!

Demonicbird00

iTrader: (17)

i dont it in 1st. hit line lock let it spin at about 6k, turn the LL off and spin upto the line

-brandon

dochall22

iTrader: (6)

well the drop hops work for me, i've had 1.9x 60fts on a lt1 with just headers and cai