drewwrxrogers

I have read all kinds of threads on this but it seems there is several differnt ways that people launch. The 3 commonly used ways that I have seen over and over is the following.

1) Stomp on the gas on green!
2) Hold brake to 1000rpm and hold til green-stomp!
3) Hold brake and hold gas til point before tires spin....stomp!

I think the reason for so many angles is because each setup reacts apart from the other. So my question to you is...How do you launch your setup?

List your...

Stall size:
Tires:
Susp. mods:
Way of launching:

Also here are a list of my mods. What do you think would be my best bet for a nice E/T? Feel free to give a guess at what I may run as well. First time at track will be this Friday.

Suspension and underneath components
-Koni adjustable shocks and struts
-Hotchkis front and rear lowering springs
-Hotchkis lower control arms
-Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bars
-Randon Technologies adjustable torque arm
-Randon Technologies adjustable pan hard bar
-BMR lower control arm relocation brackets
-All suspension components have been replaced with Polyurethane bushings
-Kenny Brown Double Diamond sub-frame connectors
-TA Performance rear end girdles with pressure bolts
-Dana custom aluminum driveshaft
-SLP driveshaft safety loop

Engine and Transmission
-Hotchkis shock tower brace
-Granatelli mass airflow sensor
-SLP air box lid
-K&N air filter
-160 degree thermostat
-Walbro inline 255lph secondary fuelpump
-Stock transmission w/shift kit
-TCS Vigilante 3600-3800 stall torque converter
-B&M transmission cooler

Exhaust
-Hooker headers
-Borla Cat Back system

Wheels, tires and brakes
-17x9 Chrome Front w/Riken Raptor 275/40ZR17 98W
-17x11 Chrome Rear w/ 315/35/17 Nitto Drag Radials
-SLP front brake line lock

Interior
-Auto Meter triple gauge piller
-Auto Meter Phantom Air/Fuel guage
-Auto Meter Phantom Transmission Temp Gauge
-Traction control bypass
-Hypertech Power Programed

Thanks

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

When I HAD my 383 LT1....


2) Hold brake to 1000rpm and hold til green-stomp!

*Slight correction, i went on the 3rd yellow


Stall size: 2000 (12" converter If i recall)
Tires: 245/50-16 Nittos
Susp. mods: Zero
Gearing: 3.23's
Way of launching:

Burnout, Slight stall, when green came, hit the gas, Yeilded 1.7x 60 foots all day. IF I had a better tire, 3.73's and a 3200 stall it be will into the 1.6's also BMR suspension was added later but never got back to the track and then parted car lol.

Barring any driver error, you should be in the high 12's, not alot of power mods and alot of suspension mods that dont help for straight line. I hope your instant center has been done, given the lowering mods.

bene

iTrader: (16)

Stall size: Yank 3500
Tires: MT ET streets at 16 psi
Susp. mods: STOCK
Way of launching: Hold the rpms at 1100-1200, then mash the gas pedal at the third yellow light.

drewwrxrogers

GOOD STUFF! Keep it coming!

358chevycamaro

iTrader: (10)

3500 Fuddle Converter
26x10.5 ET Drags at 15 lbs.
Non adj. panhard rod, and lca's

Stall it up to 2500 mash the gas at the third yellow and don't cut the wheel while the wheels are up!

Harley-Davidson88

iTrader: (71)

SY3500
26 tall Hoosier DOT drag radials
Stock suspension except for an adj. TA

I got my best times just stabbing the gas off of idle. I tried brake stalling at different rpms...but nothing worked as well as just stabbing the gas from idle.

drewwrxrogers

The thread is pretty fresh but you guys can see why I have this post up. I mean already we have 3 differnt attempts at a launch! I had heard that brake stalling is important for a launch even if it's just enough to get the slack out?

fastGBcamaro

iTrader: (10)

Hold the trans brake, mash the gas, let go of the button on the third yellow, and hold the f'ck on.

Yank 4000
UMI Chassis mount torque arm
UMI LCA's
LCA Relocation brackets
BMR Drag rear sway bar

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

PTC3500
Fully suspended, all adj
28in tire

1-2 burnout
Pump the brakes 3-4 times
Roll into first yellow
Stall it up to as much as the car will hold
Ease into second yellow
Ramp the RPMs up slightly more at the second yellow
Mash the gas as soon as you see the 3rd yellow

If you hook...should 60' nicely.

omcar

iTrader: (10)

check my sig..I launch at 2,000.

358chevycamaro

iTrader: (10)

I did that for awhile and after experimenting over 150 passes this year I found out that when the track is prepped the best, I cut my best 60's stalling it as high as possible. Every car is different but just stating that's what I used to do until I really got to know my car.

drewwrxrogers

I would love to hit a mid 12 with my setup but the track im at is shity. MOKAN

Nabdrill

iTrader: (19)

It depends on what your trying to do...best ETs or best reaction times.
If your going for all out ET then flashing the converter is what you do, aka: just nail it.
If your trying to bracket race, then start off leaving at +/- 1000 rpm stall on the last yellow and then adjust the stall for launch up or down depending on what you want the reaction time to do. For example: if .500 is a perfect reaction time and your cutting .620 @ 1000 rpm, then you should prob step up to 1500 rpm stall and leave at the same spot on the tree and get a better reaction time(closer to .500). Once you get below .550's it's time to start adjusting air pressure and suspension.

TA1364

iTrader: (11)

I think this should always hold true. Anytime I try to stall my car high as I can it will spin. It takes a good track to be able to do this.

Leaving at 1500rpm
ss4000 Yank
No sway bar, Lca
1.61 60'

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

On the street the only way I could hook is if I just stged and stabbed, lost few races and money leanring this... And those runs were on well preped streets, as good if not better than most tracks. lol
I only got it to the track one time with the converter, and the first run I reved up to about 2500k and let them up on MT's, ran a 2.3 or 2.4 60' foot. Then I just staged and then stabed on the 3rd yellow and turned a 1.7 NA and 1.6 on n20. It could of been that the tries weren't warm enought on the first run @ the track. So I went up for another run I said go big or go home, lol I was going rev the shht out of the converter and hit the nitrous out the hole, but they didnt let me run.
That was with a mostly stock TA, converter, lid, catback, MT ET streets with about 15 psi, tune was put in @ the track before the runs (just a regualr street tune) and nitrous.

I say try leaving on idel first, by just stabbing the pedal when ready. And then try stalling up the rpms later. See what works for you best.

drewwrxrogers

Think I will just nail it at the yellow first couple of runs. Then try a 1000 launch. Not going to mess with an all out launch...seems like it doesn't hurt or help either way to heavy so why risk the abuse on the *** end. I will let you guys know how I do tonight. If it doesnt rain anywaz!

358chevycamaro

iTrader: (10)

Actually if you don't want to hurt your rearend then you don't want to flash it. You want to stall it high as possible so the drivetrain is preloaded and you don't shock the drivetrain from flashing it.

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

On that last run a was going to make, my goal was to get rid of the 10 bolt rear that is if something else didn't go first. lol

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

foot brake to about 3000 and floor it on the 3rd yellow...1.60 in a full weight car in crappy prep....

4000 stall
all stock suspension
26x10.5 e/t streets

liveatstrip

iTrader: (7)

4000 fuddle
30x9 Hoosier Drag Radial Slick
Ladder bar and CE drag shocks in rear, qa1r shocks and springs front

These are eighth mile times-

off idle (1000rpm)- 8.09 but the light is usually off (.080) and I hold my marbles with one hand and the steering wheel with the other hoping the rear doesn't shred.

2000- (8.14) the best all-around launch for me. The light is in the .030-.040 range and the rear is preloaded.

3000- (8.19) if I'm trying to saw the tree down.

Remember, for you to have accurate times to gauge off of, you must roll into the beams the exact same every single time. Also, if you bracket race with some hardcore rednecks, this system works well because I can slow the car down a tenth or pick it back up and it makes them scratch their heads. They still think I'm hitting the nitrous at the end of the track to make the difference.
Hope it helps,
Wayne