Finally Got A Dynotune - Pics, Video, Timeslips and More Inside
09-19-2008, 03:47 PM
#1
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
Finally Got A Dynotune - Pics, Video, Timeslips and More Inside I've been wanting to get a dynotune for a long time now. I finally got a week off from school and decided it would be a good time to get this mod done once and for all. Information about my car is as follows:
2001 Firebird Formula A4
SLP lid (paper filter)
Fast Toys Ram Air kit
Ported throttle body w/TB bypass
QTP longtubes
Custom y-pipe w/Magnaflow 59959 cats
Corsa catback w/cutout (cutout always open)
Richmond 3.42 ring and pinion
HD aluminum driveshaft
The dyno used was a DYNOmite dyno. (Their website is here for more info about their products):
http://www.land-and-sea.com/chassis-...assis-dyno.htm
Baseline Dyno
The baseline dyno yielded 303rwhp and slightly above 300 rwtq. I don't have an exact number. It looks to be around 310-315rwtq by eying up the graph. Long story short, my car was really far off in AFR. The headers had me running pig rich, and I'm willing to bet my car went slower after the header install. It smelled like straight gasoline at idle, even with the cats. My AFR was in the 11's. I was told it was over a full point off, which I think is impressive for just bolt-ons
After the Tune
When the tune was performed, the AFR was adjusted, some timing was added, the trans shift times were decreased from 0.3sec to 0.2sec and torque management was removed from the 1-2 shift. Torque management was left active on the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts in order to protect the 3-4 clutches. Line pressure was left stock.
The final numbers were 338rwhp/355rwtq. That's a solid 35rwhp gain, and by eying up the graph, a solid 35-40rwtq gain. All that from just a bolt-on dynotune. THROUGH AN AUTO! And the people on this site tend to believe you don't need a dynotune after headers Well, you technically don't for it to run safely, but look what you're leaving on the table!
Track Results
I went to the track last night for the first time since July 2007. When I was lid/catback only, I turned back to back 13.60's @ 105mph. When I added a cutout and the FTRA, I ran a 13.7 @ 106mph. My car ran a lot richer with the cutout open and I could tell it was bogging hard down low, even on stock manifolds. Since then, the headers, gears, ported TB and tune were added. For my results, my car was full weight. I still had the spare tire and jack, I still had my sub and amp and a little over a half tank of gas. My results are as follows:
Obviously, my car's on the right
So, headers, gears, a ported TB and a tune dropped about 6 tenths and gained 4 mph. My car was also running about 100 lbs heavier than my car last time I went to the track due to all the crap I had in it and my tires are not in very good shape right now, resulting in a horrible 60 foot time (plus I'm a choke artist at the Christmas tree
). I know if I could get a decent launch and drop some weight I could cut another 3 or 4 tenths off my ET. All in all, I'm pretty damn happy with the results.
Special thanks to Fran at Race Proven Motorsports in Claymont, Delaware. It looks like the tune really paid off and even though it's only been 24 hours, I'm very happy with it so far. Now we'll see if I pick up any mpg's too
And a big **** YOU to Atco Raceway in Atco, New Jersey. Typical piece of **** Atco. They raised their racing fees $2 to $15 to run the damn car and in four hours I got TWO RUNS. The place is always filthy, they only have one lane going half the time and you have to sit and watch a bunch of guys race that won't let you see their times. It takes TEN MINUTES to run all the street cars. It was 55 DEGREES. It was the PERFECT NIGHT to run at the track, and I get to do two lousy runs because you let the street bikes go four ******* times longer than the street cars, and it takes you 10 times longer to run a dozen quick 8 cars than ALL the street cars. AHHH! I always get screwed at this track
2001 Firebird Formula A4
SLP lid (paper filter)
Fast Toys Ram Air kit
Ported throttle body w/TB bypass
QTP longtubes
Custom y-pipe w/Magnaflow 59959 cats
Corsa catback w/cutout (cutout always open)
Richmond 3.42 ring and pinion
HD aluminum driveshaft
The dyno used was a DYNOmite dyno. (Their website is here for more info about their products):
http://www.land-and-sea.com/chassis-...assis-dyno.htm
Baseline Dyno
The baseline dyno yielded 303rwhp and slightly above 300 rwtq. I don't have an exact number. It looks to be around 310-315rwtq by eying up the graph. Long story short, my car was really far off in AFR. The headers had me running pig rich, and I'm willing to bet my car went slower after the header install. It smelled like straight gasoline at idle, even with the cats. My AFR was in the 11's. I was told it was over a full point off, which I think is impressive for just bolt-ons
After the Tune
When the tune was performed, the AFR was adjusted, some timing was added, the trans shift times were decreased from 0.3sec to 0.2sec and torque management was removed from the 1-2 shift. Torque management was left active on the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts in order to protect the 3-4 clutches. Line pressure was left stock.
The final numbers were 338rwhp/355rwtq. That's a solid 35rwhp gain, and by eying up the graph, a solid 35-40rwtq gain. All that from just a bolt-on dynotune. THROUGH AN AUTO! And the people on this site tend to believe you don't need a dynotune after headers
Well, you technically don't for it to run safely, but look what you're leaving on the table!Track Results
I went to the track last night for the first time since July 2007. When I was lid/catback only, I turned back to back 13.60's @ 105mph. When I added a cutout and the FTRA, I ran a 13.7 @ 106mph. My car ran a lot richer with the cutout open and I could tell it was bogging hard down low, even on stock manifolds. Since then, the headers, gears, ported TB and tune were added. For my results, my car was full weight. I still had the spare tire and jack, I still had my sub and amp and a little over a half tank of gas. My results are as follows:
Obviously, my car's on the right
So, headers, gears, a ported TB and a tune dropped about 6 tenths and gained 4 mph. My car was also running about 100 lbs heavier than my car last time I went to the track due to all the crap I had in it and my tires are not in very good shape right now, resulting in a horrible 60 foot time (plus I'm a choke artist at the Christmas tree
). I know if I could get a decent launch and drop some weight I could cut another 3 or 4 tenths off my ET. All in all, I'm pretty damn happy with the results.Special thanks to Fran at Race Proven Motorsports in Claymont, Delaware. It looks like the tune really paid off and even though it's only been 24 hours, I'm very happy with it so far. Now we'll see if I pick up any mpg's too
And a big **** YOU to Atco Raceway in Atco, New Jersey. Typical piece of **** Atco. They raised their racing fees $2 to $15 to run the damn car and in four hours I got TWO RUNS. The place is always filthy, they only have one lane going half the time and you have to sit and watch a bunch of guys race that won't let you see their times. It takes TEN MINUTES to run all the street cars. It was 55 DEGREES. It was the PERFECT NIGHT to run at the track, and I get to do two lousy runs because you let the street bikes go four ******* times longer than the street cars, and it takes you 10 times longer to run a dozen quick 8 cars than ALL the street cars. AHHH! I always get screwed at this track
Last edited by ChocoTaco369; 09-19-2008 at 04:25 PM.
09-19-2008, 08:12 PM
#6
Nice numbers by the way...
It's weird we have almost the same mods, the best I've been able to do at the track was 13.03 @ 107.51 without a tune.
You are trapping almost 2 more mph than me but ran nearly identical times. When I took my car to a dyno day it's AFR was at almost 13-13.5 I believe. I too think you need a tune to get the most out of your car.
I need to get one soon as I was disappointed with my times for the mods I have....If you would have cut a 2.0 you would be at a 12.8 or so. It looks like the tune is what's holding my back
It's weird we have almost the same mods, the best I've been able to do at the track was 13.03 @ 107.51 without a tune.
You are trapping almost 2 more mph than me but ran nearly identical times. When I took my car to a dyno day it's AFR was at almost 13-13.5 I believe. I too think you need a tune to get the most out of your car.
I need to get one soon as I was disappointed with my times for the mods I have....If you would have cut a 2.0 you would be at a 12.8 or so. It looks like the tune is what's holding my back
09-20-2008, 09:42 AM
#7
11 Second Club
OUCH!
Here in western NY it's $10 on Wednesday night and $13 on Friday night.
Nice numbers for a bolt on auto. I know my dynotune after headers made a night and day difference.
You could cut a full second (or close to it) off your ET with a Yank SS4000 stall and M/T drag radials.
When I lived in Illinois I would run at RT 66 Speedway in Joliet. $35 bucks to race and 2-3 runs were all I could get. Seemed like an eternity inbetween them running street cars. I like NY better with $13 for about 13 runs
P.S. According to the street racing & kill stories rules you're still not allowed to talk smack yet because technically you're not out of the 13's
Here in western NY it's $10 on Wednesday night and $13 on Friday night.
The final numbers were 338rwhp/355rwtq. That's a solid 35rwhp gain, and by eying up the graph, a solid 35-40rwtq gain. All that from just a bolt-on dynotune. THROUGH AN AUTO! And the people on this site tend to believe you don't need a dynotune after headers Well, you technically don't for it to run safely, but look what you're leaving on the table!:
Well, you technically don't for it to run safely, but look what you're leaving on the table!:So, headers, gears, a ported TB and a tune dropped about 6 tenths and gained 4 mph. My car was also running about 100 lbs heavier than my car last time I went to the track due to all the crap I had in it and my tires are not in very good shape right now, resulting in a horrible 60 foot time (plus I'm a choke artist at the Christmas tree ). I know if I could get a decent launch and drop some weight I could cut another 3 or 4 tenths off my ET. All in all, I'm pretty damn happy with the results.
). I know if I could get a decent launch and drop some weight I could cut another 3 or 4 tenths off my ET. All in all, I'm pretty damn happy with the results.P.S. According to the street racing & kill stories rules you're still not allowed to talk smack yet because technically you're not out of the 13's
Last edited by darrensls1; 09-20-2008 at 09:49 AM.
Trending Topics
09-20-2008, 10:48 AM
#8
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
D'oh 13.06 
I'm not interested in getting a stall. Not on the stock transmission. It'll cost around $1200 for the stall (I'd get a good one, not a cheap one) by the time you factor in installation, a cooler and a shift kit. Plus, I don't know of any good transmission places locally to install a stall and a shift kit. I'm afraid to touch a stock 4L60E, especially when they have a reputation for grenading when guys who aren't specialized in them touch them.
I'll probably just chew away at some suspension mods. LCA's, a torque arm, a line lock kit and new street tires should get me into 12's. I'm also probably going to remove my AIR system to free up some weight. I'm planning on going to the track in mid October also, so it'll be nice and cool and the track will be stickier in the cooler weather, plus there should be less people there (less kids with their Hondas and Subarus too). I'm just not interested in touching internals and driveline parts until I can get out of college and afford a beater car. I've just seen too many horror stories of people modding their daily too much, then it breaking and them being SOL.
13.06 I'm not interested in getting a stall. Not on the stock transmission. It'll cost around $1200 for the stall (I'd get a good one, not a cheap one) by the time you factor in installation, a cooler and a shift kit. Plus, I don't know of any good transmission places locally to install a stall and a shift kit. I'm afraid to touch a stock 4L60E, especially when they have a reputation for grenading when guys who aren't specialized in them touch them.
I'll probably just chew away at some suspension mods. LCA's, a torque arm, a line lock kit and new street tires should get me into 12's. I'm also probably going to remove my AIR system to free up some weight. I'm planning on going to the track in mid October also, so it'll be nice and cool and the track will be stickier in the cooler weather, plus there should be less people there (less kids with their Hondas and Subarus too). I'm just not interested in touching internals and driveline parts until I can get out of college and afford a beater car. I've just seen too many horror stories of people modding their daily too much, then it breaking and them being SOL.
09-20-2008, 10:59 AM
#9
Solid gains! You'll definitely see huge improvements with a stall and DR's. That car will definitely be solid 12's.
Even without the stall you can hit 12's easy with a set of drag radials and minor suspension.
Even without the stall you can hit 12's easy with a set of drag radials and minor suspension.
Last edited by ScreaminRedZ; 09-20-2008 at 11:29 AM.
09-21-2008, 07:56 PM
#10
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
I made a really crummy overlay that shows the massive horsepower and torque gains seen through the entire RPM range from this tune. This is undeniable proof that a dynotune with just bolt-ons is easily worth the cost. The gains are especially huge in the midrange.
09-23-2008, 07:36 PM
#19
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
Before my tune and with stock manifolds and cats, I ran 2 tenths slower with the cutout open and got about 1-2 mpg's less. I can only assume it's because the AFR was screwed up with it open. Since I always run with the cutout open, I had the car tuned for the open cutout, not for the cutout closed.
