who thinks they have the fastest f bod in NY?
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who thinks they have the fastest f bod in NY?
personally the fasterst ive seen from a street car is only 11.3 out of a procharged t/a with slicks , but then again there arnt many fbodys in ny
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Just show up at Lebanon Valley Dragway when they open....you'll see some quick F cars running there....or go to Atco, or Englishtown....where they run quicker still...tons of fast Fbods around....You want to take a little ride, then go up to New England Dragway in NH...more there, as well. You'll see plenty of 10's and 9's...even a few 8 second cars, so to set the NA record, get ready to open up your wallet.... WJ
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Im running 10.3 with H/C stock bottom end, all motor.
The NA Record is well in the 8's. Not sure of what it would be in NY State
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a decent cam and good heads should net 450 through a m6
theres some of us that are around that cam only w/ big cams
it all comes to how much your looking to spend thats where you gotta start adn go from there
-brandon
theres some of us that are around that cam only w/ big cams
it all comes to how much your looking to spend thats where you gotta start adn go from there
-brandon
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demon, inoticed that u dynod 418 with bolt ons and a 236/236 cam..thats wat i was looking at them specs....u think if u throw some 65cc heads on there with that cam 450 is in reach?
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$4500 isn't going to cut it. If you are an M6 you'll need a $2000 12 bolt or 9" rear. If you are an automatic you'll need to build your trans and a torque convertor, that will be a bit more than $2000. Figure you'll spend $1000 just on exhaust and another $500 on simple bolt-ons like a lid, under drive pulley, ported throttle body etc. $500 to get tuned. Now you are at $4000 and still on the stock heads/cam. If your an M6 you'll be spending some coin on a clutch as well.
If you don't plan on hitting the track much and its an M6 you could stay with the 10 bolt and just focus on power, just don't expect to be able to goto the track and drive the car hard on a sticky tire.
#19
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It takes more than power to run into the low 11's/10/9's. You need to get the power to the ground, have a very light car, all the parts need to work in unison, suspension, transmission, etc.
You can have a 400 hp car run high 10's or a 400hp car run low 12's. It depends on everything.
Any stock cube H/C car running 10.5 or better is designed for the track more than a street car and is probably gutted to the max and suffer's with drivability (drivability is of personal preference, but a 5,000 stalled A3 with a .610+ lift cam is not much of a commuter).
I dunno what your plans are, but a decent streetable package will get you mid 11's all day along with a few supporting mods and a decent launch. You don't wanna have to spin your motor over 7k to make the most power in a street car.
If you got $4,500 to spend that will cover it if you do all the work yourself. Add another $1,500 for labor if you go that route, assuming you buy 2k+ heads. That includes timing chain, springs, gaskets, head bolts, pushrods, retainers, all that stuff. It adds up quick. Oh then you need to invest in a tune, which can make or break your setup.
Then you can buy your headers, intake, TB, pulley, catback, suspension stuff, etc. I'm not gonna lie to yeah it's a money pit and it never end's. I bet I got atleast 15k in mods done to my car. Some guys would say damn for 15k you should run low 10's, well my advice is not to cut corner's buy good stuff, get the supporting mods done 1st, headers, subframes, lca's, etc and work from there. I've gone through 2 tranny's and 2 rears, so make sure you got a money tree or something growing out back.
Most H/C street LS1 car's are 11 sec car's, 10's on juice. And yeah a decent street H/C package should make 430-460 w/ an M6.
You can have a 400 hp car run high 10's or a 400hp car run low 12's. It depends on everything.
Any stock cube H/C car running 10.5 or better is designed for the track more than a street car and is probably gutted to the max and suffer's with drivability (drivability is of personal preference, but a 5,000 stalled A3 with a .610+ lift cam is not much of a commuter).
I dunno what your plans are, but a decent streetable package will get you mid 11's all day along with a few supporting mods and a decent launch. You don't wanna have to spin your motor over 7k to make the most power in a street car.
If you got $4,500 to spend that will cover it if you do all the work yourself. Add another $1,500 for labor if you go that route, assuming you buy 2k+ heads. That includes timing chain, springs, gaskets, head bolts, pushrods, retainers, all that stuff. It adds up quick. Oh then you need to invest in a tune, which can make or break your setup.
Then you can buy your headers, intake, TB, pulley, catback, suspension stuff, etc. I'm not gonna lie to yeah it's a money pit and it never end's. I bet I got atleast 15k in mods done to my car. Some guys would say damn for 15k you should run low 10's, well my advice is not to cut corner's buy good stuff, get the supporting mods done 1st, headers, subframes, lca's, etc and work from there. I've gone through 2 tranny's and 2 rears, so make sure you got a money tree or something growing out back.
Most H/C street LS1 car's are 11 sec car's, 10's on juice. And yeah a decent street H/C package should make 430-460 w/ an M6.
Last edited by DannoWS6; 03-19-2008 at 08:54 AM.