pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

Engine LS2 engine, forged. -16cc dished pistons. dm engine girdle, ported 317's, comp cam 224/224 114, comp valvetrain, ls9 piston squirters( if i can get installed).

Transmission Rebuilt 4L80

Turbo T-series T-76>>76MM FRONT AND 68MM BACK 76MM HOUSING,96 A/R. PTK Ebay clone kit. HKS SSQV BOV.

Fuel Aeromotive Fuel Pump #11101, pre & post filter, -10 feed, -8 return, aeromotive A1000 efi regulator, lonnie's rails, a ton of aeromotive fittings, etc...
I have two msd boost a pumps, I wanted to run one in-tank walbro and have the aeromotive come on via boost switch.

Suspension Pa racing tubular crossmember, upper and lower front control arms, eibach pro kit, bilstein shocks, subframe connectors, rear lower control arms, relocation brackets, adjustable panhard rod(lower)

If it's not there i haven't bought it yet.

eviltwin_1987

iTrader: (18)

Ask anyone who has used the eBay kit if they would do it again

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

I could have did the truck manifold but i have no fabrication equipment, this is a driveway build and i wanted to keep the car close to stock as possible. I know i have to relocate the a/c. I was under the impression people were having trouble with the down pipe on a stock crossmember

Eviltwin where u at in norcal

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

I think it just ran aliitle low ar far as the down pipe but nothing to bad. The engine girdle is really not needed, I will use arp everywhere in the bottom. The turbo seems good also, the oil squters is gonna be pricey because u have to have the block machine for them. Be sure to have the stall buitl around your setup.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Tial and turbosmart also make nice wastegates and blow offs. I have used both no complaints.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

The girdle is not needed at your power level so you can save some money there unless u have it already.

I've seen the A1000 be hit or miss for street. Here in Las Vegas everyone I've seen (4 of them) have been total disasters on the street, even with the speed controller.

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

damn wastegate cost more than the turbo. The pistons squirters was a might as well because everything is all apart and the block is ready to be machined and I got a good deal on the girdle with the arp kit. I used my old cam from my sts setup My original goal was 1200 rwhp but after talking with a few people my block(LS2) won't take the abuse, so I'm going to shoot for like 900 give or take a few. The car will be street car so i dont think clearance would be an issue(big wheels). I have a homemade dual(dual walbro gss340) setup on my firebird, but i had already bought the aeromotive pump, filters, fittings and rails(expensive). I got a good deal on the 4L80 and the rebuild, which stall should i get, remember 99 percent street car. How can I tell if my HKS BOV is fake? I'm going to use the hotwire kit with the boost a pumps, one on the main in tank pump and one on the aeromotive pump(overkill yes). Fuel system goes, single gss340 walbro intank, I have a fuel log so the two pumps form a single -10 line running up the the rear of the fuel rail. I have crossover line -10 front and back with the regulator mounted on the driver side rail and ran -8 return back to tank(should support at least 1400 rwhp). eibach and bilstein, ive had this combo for a few years now, if i were to replace something then I would go with strano parts.

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

the girdle cost less than the pistons, rods and machine work so it was like insurance for me. also ive read the horror stories about the a1000, but most seem to have installation error issuse such as incorrect fuel line size and location of the pump itself. Should i purchase the controller, aeromotive dosen't seem to think so because the pump will only be activated at a certain psi from the manifold(not running all the time).

eviltwin_1987

iTrader: (18)

Fireball has taken an ls2 block to 1600~hp

the eBay kit is not just a bolt on thing

I don't see a t76 getting you to 900whp with that eBay kit either. Sounds like you are just in a hurry to spend money and not research what you need to reach your goal.

I live in the bay area

eviltwin_1987

iTrader: (18)

I custom spec'd cam would be good. Unless your like me and got a good deal on a close one

Professor_speed

iTrader: (8)

78mm with a 1.15 a/r has a better shot at the power you want.

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

cam was from my sts setup and yes my birthday is coming up in 3 weeks, so im kinda rushing. I sold my sts after to many headaches. I picked the turbo because the price was right. Can i upgrade to a billet wheel once the car is up and running and\or put a race cover on the turbo.

chase3

iTrader: (1)

Prob going to need a bigger turbo IMO but thats just my guess. And that is a tiny cam lol

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

As said above, 900rwhp through a 4L80 is going to be damn tough with that turbo. It will also be pushing your 4 bolt heads pretty hard without oringing or similar. Definitely use ARP studs. Definitely go larger on the turbine housing if you're keeping that turbo. Personally I'd ditch the Aeromotive pump and go another route, and not have a pump boost referenced. Just more things to fail and pop your motor...

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

I have arp studs, so i should dump the aeromotive and run a dual in tank setup. I have both a 98 and 99 tank available to me.

NightHawk

iTrader: (1)

**** no

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

where at you having problems?

eviltwin_1987

iTrader: (18)

Look at any eBay kit build thread. There are problems with almost everything.

Also I don't know why you have your heart set on 900~whp for pretty much only a street car. Have you ever driven a car on the street with that much power? Your going to end up putting it into a telephone pole or into someone else if you try using all that power. I'm not trying to come off as a dick but that the truth. Now if it was going to be a street/strip car I could understand with a boost controler to bring the power down to something useful on the street. Just my $.02

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

i own a procharged firebird, my buddies ls7 trans am six speed i can hold the pedal all the way down

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Yank py3400e converter is pretty streetable and is pretty much made for big power turbo cars. You can see that cablebandit,mightmouse,etc have run it with good results.
I chose it after a lot of research.You can't reallly lock it up on dyno or at wot according to yank at big power levels but its pretty effiicient converter so does pretty good not locked up. Again you can look at cablebandit or mightymouse cars.

For fuel system well again for 1000rwhp lonnies twin pump setup is nice. One pump is driven off hobbs and it runs as said 8 an feed and 6 return,with of course adjustable reg and bigger rails. Simple and effective and also used in a lot of cars on the board.

I think running all those msd boost a pump things are unnecessary.
I did the hole in hatch mod so can get to a pump if need be.
My car is quiet for a street car with those intank pumps and I like my street car to be as streetable as possible. My whole build was to make a car that is very streetable. No cam lope, no low speed surging from the cam,not too sloppy a stall,reasonable gear ratio,no super loud fuel pump. Think have succeeded pretty well.
As for wanted past 1000rwhp well whatever floats your boat. I have been running think and estimated 600 to 650 rwhp for last season and car can still be a handful. I coudln't really hook up until middle of third with my nitto drag radials with my six speed.
I have not had chance to see how things hook up yet with the 4l80 and stall combo since got it in the car too close to end of season but it did seem traction was big problem.
I am going to have a pair of et street radials to use at track and occasionally on street. But want to run actual street tires most of the time but it may not be possible. I have eboost 2 which can ramp boost by rpm on the street and intend to try that feature and can ramp by time at track if wish. I hear they can ramp by gear but haven't found anyone yet to tell me how its done. Also other high end boost controllers can help traction problems like ams 500 and 1000? They have think good ramping strategies. I might even install a variable traction control made by racelogic in my car. I didn't even get factory traction control in it.

And turbo setups can come in a lot stronger then a centrifugal like ati. You can have full spool up at like 3000 or 3500 rpm depending on gear and few other variables and it will of course keep that boost level pretty far up .Unlike centrifugal that builds boost with rpm.Thats actually why ramping by rpm might work well on street.