Suggestion for fast 90 repair or replace
02-14-2010, 12:52 PM
#1
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Suggestion for fast 90 repair or replace I'm running an F1A procharger at 16psi LS1 418 with a fast 90. I found this today while pulling the heads to fix some valves.
Is this repairable anyone tried it or should I replace all together.
Is this repairable anyone tried it or should I replace all together.
02-14-2010, 01:03 PM
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The Fast intake is notorious for doing that with boost, so I would buy a new bottom part of the Fast and sell the intake and switch to a victor jr style with an elbow or an ls6 intake
02-14-2010, 01:15 PM
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yea idle was high depending on temperature of the car it's a SD tune so it was smooth just high. I checked for a leak with carb cleaner but it wasn't getting to the area of the leak obviously.
Yea I was kinda expecting this eventually does that victor jr fit under a stock hood?
Yea I was kinda expecting this eventually does that victor jr fit under a stock hood?
02-14-2010, 02:25 PM
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yea idle was high depending on temperature of the car it's a SD tune so it was smooth just high. I checked for a leak with carb cleaner but it wasn't getting to the area of the leak obviously.
Yea I was kinda expecting this eventually does that victor jr fit under a stock hood?
Yea I was kinda expecting this eventually does that victor jr fit under a stock hood?
02-15-2010, 09:15 AM
#7
And still seeing lots of guys running them.I have been running mine for year or two but only at 8psi. Was going to be taking up boost this season to maybe 20psi max guess see how it goes.
Few questions come to mind .Did you use the proper valley bolts? They can crack with the stock valley bolts .Did you tighten to inch pounds not ft pounds? Found fair amount of posts with guys that did crack their fast from the above reasons no fi involved.
I also have burst panels on my setup as have direct port nitrous which have not used yet.
I liked the fast because of the direct port option and already had the intake pre my turbo build but if it does give me problems guess could go to ls6 intake and run just single nozzle nitrous. Only going to run small shots 75 to 125 maybe anyway occasionally.
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I would do some trimming 
02-15-2010, 09:11 PM
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I'm kinda concerned about the flow of the victor's now as well but then again I feel the same way about an LS6.
I'm pretty sure I know when this intake first cracked and it was at WOT 16+psi of boost not to say it couldn't have been caused by a bad install just I think it happened at WOT.
I always used an inch lb torque wrench when installing the intake and whatever the correct value was (19inlb if I remember correctly
)
tempted to break out the jb weld
I'm pretty sure I know when this intake first cracked and it was at WOT 16+psi of boost not to say it couldn't have been caused by a bad install just I think it happened at WOT.
I always used an inch lb torque wrench when installing the intake and whatever the correct value was (19inlb if I remember correctly
)tempted to break out the jb weld
02-16-2010, 04:23 AM
#14
You should ask some of the higher boosted guys with Fast's what they think.
Id make sure tune is 100% spot on if going to replace.
Would Ls6 give anymore lower rpm advantage over Fast for boost?
02-16-2010, 09:34 AM
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nor would I want to have JB weld anywhere near my intake ports or other internal pathways to the inside of engine...
You should ask some of the higher boosted guys with Fast's what they think.
Id make sure tune is 100% spot on if going to replace.
Would Ls6 give anymore lower rpm advantage over Fast for boost?
You should ask some of the higher boosted guys with Fast's what they think.
Id make sure tune is 100% spot on if going to replace.
Would Ls6 give anymore lower rpm advantage over Fast for boost?
02-16-2010, 10:14 AM
#18
I'd pull it apart and resin a sheet of carbonfiber to the entire floor of the intake. Done. So far, I have pushed 16 psi thru mine without incident. I believe that the secret to keeping the FAST alive under boost is heat management.
First, if you have an LS1 valley pan, make sure that the valve covers are well ventilated. If you have retrictive valve cover ventilation (PCV or breathers), the crankcase pressure will push out hot oily steam around the seals for the knocksensors. This softens the deck of the FAST.
Second being charge temps. Heat + pressure is murder on plastic.
First, if you have an LS1 valley pan, make sure that the valve covers are well ventilated. If you have retrictive valve cover ventilation (PCV or breathers), the crankcase pressure will push out hot oily steam around the seals for the knocksensors. This softens the deck of the FAST.
Second being charge temps. Heat + pressure is murder on plastic.
02-16-2010, 11:11 AM
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I'd pull it apart and resin a sheet of carbonfiber to the entire floor of the intake. Done. So far, I have pushed 16 psi thru mine without incident. I believe that the secret to keeping the FAST alive under boost is heat management.
First, if you have an LS1 valley pan, make sure that the valve covers are well ventilated. If you have retrictive valve cover ventilation (PCV or breathers), the crankcase pressure will push out hot oily steam around the seals for the knocksensors. This softens the deck of the FAST.
Second being charge temps. Heat + pressure is murder on plastic.
First, if you have an LS1 valley pan, make sure that the valve covers are well ventilated. If you have retrictive valve cover ventilation (PCV or breathers), the crankcase pressure will push out hot oily steam around the seals for the knocksensors. This softens the deck of the FAST.
Second being charge temps. Heat + pressure is murder on plastic.
