yoshgixxer

iTrader: (74)

building a semi buget turbo set up for 95% street use..might take it to the track every now and then any ways where i am so far
..main goal is 550ish RWHP..maybe more if i can milk the turbo for all its worth!! lol


-Precision turbo PT63 T4 turbo .86 A/R(should max out at 14psi at 6500rpms from what i researched on my stock CI engine)
-tubular header style front mount turbo kit with 4" down pipe
-TRT Front Mount Intercooler with 3" cold piping
-60lbs deka injectors
-38mm waste gate
-FAST in tank fuel pump 255lph (is this enough??) maybe add boost-a-pump?
-LS6 intake
-ported TB
-Comp turbo grind cam
-Patriot gold springs
-7.4 push rods
-GM MLS head gaskets
-arp head bolts
-spec stage 2 clutch

Thinking of still buying.
-TST LS6 oil pump
-6.0L heads
-Fuel rails and larger lines if neccesary..
-anything else im missing!!?!?!
-ARP rod bolts if i keep stock internals


Now flirting in the 550-600hp range how dependabile is this going to be..the car is a dailey driver..only bitch is its a 98 so i cant really do much with the sleeves bore wise so should i just suck it up and buy a set of good pistons and rods before i chunk a piston a wreck my block?? .The stock engine is super strong with great oil pressure 35-40lbs at idle when hot. with hardley any oil consumption..75k miles

Thanks!

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

Pistons? Youll need 2 fuel pumps. Id recommend an oil pump also.

yoshgixxer

iTrader: (74)

yea thats the big question should i replace the pistons and rods since im this far into it?..who makes a good dual pump set up?

oil pump was in my thinking of buying list!

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

Pistons are generally the first internal thing to go on these motors(or so Ive heard). Nasty Performance or Lonnies Performance make good dual pumps or you can do it yourself, theres plenty of how tos on it.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

ive started my build and once i got down to the motor i found the pistons were fried from just 550ish on nitrous so its getting rebuilt as we speak....if they ever finish....its costin just over 2g to forge it so maybe while your down there you should think about that...+ then you can boost more.

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

dont bother with pistons, the 98 block cannot be even honed past .005 so at 75k youll prob need .020 to clean it up, youd be better off getting a low mile 5.3 or 6.0 shortblock out of a junkyard and putting your heads on it. Im in the same exact situation as you and thats what im gonna do, 5.3 with full ARP- p&p 317 heads- turbo cam and prob new bearings.

dont forget oil feed and return lines, a new water pump is cheap insurance, a Blow-off valve, wideband o2 sensor, oil catchcan/pcv setup, MAP sensor, the fuel rails are a good idea,

ive got a list i made when i started mine lol. are you mounting it low just behind the radiator?

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

with less then 600rwhp a single intank pump (255lph) should do

yoshgixxer

iTrader: (74)

I have all my oil feed lines,bov,gate ,wide band AEM setup

catch can is a good idea and are you saying convert the car to speed density? What sensor do I need?

yoshgixxer

iTrader: (74)

Yes it goes low just behind the radiator and ihave the brackets to stand the stock rad upright

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

well im going SD but thats up to you, The Manifold Air Pressure sensor tells the computer when you're in boost, the factory MAP cannot read positive air pressure, only vaccum. the 98's have a different PCM and it cannot support anything more than a 2 BAR tune (14.7psi) so get a 2 BAR MAP, most of us are using the 2bar out of the Cobalt SS, its plug and play. do a search and youll get a PN

if the Turbo is low then you may need a Scavenge Pump to make shure the oil gets out of the turbo and back into the crankcase, instead of being blown past the seals and out the exhaust.

yoshgixxer

iTrader: (74)

my buddy has a 02 SS thats total junk i can get the computer out of if that would be better..then i could run a 3 bar?? incase i want to run more then 14 lbs of boost in the future? come to think of it it may have a good base line tune in it..it was a 408 with a F1 on it..atleast i could maybe start my car after its finished to make sure it runs!

OH! do i need a boost refrenced regulator? if i do then wouldnt a need a return set up?

im sot sure exactly how low its going to sit on the car..ill be dissasembling the car after i get back from OC hot rod weekend this weekend..but the return line is only 10" long or so and taps right into the timing cover..the pressure feed side im going to tap right off the side of the block on that block off plate thing..

Where are you plumming the catch can feed line too? how do i know what all vacume and emmisions crap i can get rid off..id like to ditch as much as possible

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

if you get the SS pcm, youll have to change the whole main harness or cut the connectors off the SS and wire it on to yours. Ive not looked into this but do a search, ive heard its not too hard.

Im not sure about the regulator, ill be running twin in tank walbro 255's with the second one on a Hobbs switch so ive not looked into that either.

plug the catch can into both valve covers, do a search under the user name MightyMouse, hes got a thread on a great setup explaned in detail. dump the rear o2 sensors, the AIR, the EGR, i dunno what else tho, kinda depends on your setup.