xrambbc

Hey guys well im starting a fun build but its serious, i have a 1966 datsun pick up 99.6 inch wheel base, 1900 pounds dry!!!!! i have a magnum t56 with the extreme option so its good to 1100 foot pounds and 8000 rpm shifts and i plan on taking it to its limits. i know that since the truck is very ligth and small it wont be as hard on things. im shooting for the 8's when she is all said and done.

here is what im starting with, i have a brand new garrett t-88 102mm turbo 1.05 exhaust a/r and .60 cold side a/r. max boost of 35 (planning on running that much)

THIS IS A TRACK TRUCK ONLY LIMITED STREET ONLY TO CAR SHOWS SO (NO) STREET RACING AT ALL OR MAYBE TWICE A YEAR IF SOMEONE PISSES ME OFF ON MY WAY TO THE CAR SHOW. TRAILER QUEEN MOST LIKELY.

i want to keep weight down thats why im building it, but i am on somewhat of a budget, im not spending 2000 dollars on a damn block, i know some ls1 iron or aluminum blacks can handle 1200 horse for track purposes. so i just want to know which one to use, the bottom end will be all callies and oliver, and good pistons of course, heads i have afr 205's. and all good valvetrain im not goin cheap on any of that stuff just dont feel like spending 2000 or so on a block and then not have money for the important Bottom end parts.

running a 4 core air to air inter cooler and i have a custom grind comp 240 232 .580 .565 on a 113 lsa cam that was in my turbo camaro.

so what block to use??? iron and say **** the weight or aluminum to keep weight low up front??

thanks guys!!!!!

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

a properly prepped ls2 can take it...I made 1700-1800 hp with one as delivered by GM

All we used was hardblok in the jackets to add some rigidity

though with what you're planning you should really give some consideration to the aftermarket, such as an ERL-modified LS2 or aftermarket block...

TurboAv

iTrader: (6)

You should talk with Shawn at Virginia Speed. If you really want 35psi of boost, you aren't in the budget category anymore.

ERL Performance

Just looking over your goals, I definitely would say you need a sleeved block. I know that sounds biased coming from me but the boost you are going to be running is going to cause the the cylinder pressures in the stock cast iron sleeves in an LS aluminum block to crack and will cause quite a bit of other damage.
You could go with an iron block but you were talking about wanting to keep the weight down and obviously going with a cast iron block is going to add allot of weight to the front end.
Either way you go, whether you go with an LS aluminum block or say an LSX block, you are going to have to do work to both of them to make them reliable. Our ERL Superdeck I sleeving system has been used time and time again in this type of application very successfully. Please email or call me if this is the route you want to go and I would be more tan happy to answer any questions you might have.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

So true. Hell, over 18psi and you can throw "budget" out the window.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Budget = Iron block. Iron block + 1/2 fill, good fasteners, and a precision deck is all you need.

TurboAv

iTrader: (6)

Can you daily drive a half filled block?

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Yes, You'll need a good water pump, something around 55gpm and a good radiator.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Budget doesn't fit into your equation, unless you just go oldschool. Fast, Cheap, Reliable, pick 2.

I'd go with a filled LS2, if I ever go boosted LSX again, that's what I'm doing. Maybe boosted LSX Viper...?

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

LS2 or LQ9 block. Stock crank. You wont need anything near 35 psi so forget about that. At 2500# race weight, it doesn't take much to run an 8. I'm thinking 16-17 psi to get to an 8.9 or so. You will want to sell the 6 speed and buy a decent glide. Again, doesn't have to be anything crazy as the weight of the truck is very low.

daws222000

iTrader: (6)

Budget with 35 lbs of boost good luck. With that much boost you will need 6 bolt heads which will require 6 bolt block so your either in a aftermarket one or your getting expensive machine work to make a stock block work. No need for that much boost go with a ls2 or a 6.0 block and stock crank and let it rip.

4SFEDZ

iTrader: (6)

Whats the plans for the truck, times wise? I'd go 6.0 iron block stock crank and keep the bore to a minimum! And be sure the engine work is good, good head gasket and fasteners, half fill and let her rip!! And I'm not too sure bout that AR! Might need something a little bigger, that might choke you down!

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

My iron block is filled up to the water pump ports and it has a hard time getting up to 195° with a stock water pump and stock f-body radiator. I drive it nearly every day. Of course it is NA though. I'd love to do a turbo one day but I think the 4.07" bore will not like 12-15psi even though it is filled.............

xrambbc

ha ha ha well id love to only have to run 16 pounds of boost but see on a crappy day up here in denver, bandimere speedway i have seen corrected altitude of 12,000 feet!!!!! so 16 pounds is not goin to cut it, but true i have been lookin around and i think goin budget on the block isnt goin to work so i guess im in the market for a good block but not too heavy. the ls2 with a stock crank will hold over 1000 horse?? no ****??? damn im a small block and big block guy and havent really done a ton with these motors but god im so ready to let one out of the bag!!

im thinkin if i can keep the weight down i wont need to make AS much as i was thinkin maybe 900-1000 wheel if i can kep the truck around 2500 to 2800 fully loaded with me strapped in will put me at least 9.0's

im not doin a glide i hate auto's and as strong as they are i want my left foot doin work down the track, i have had a god damn big stall th400 my entire life and every time i hop in my 6 speed camaro i just never want to stop drivin so im makin this an interesting challenge.

so an ls2 block half filled with stock bore, stock crank and what some oliver rods?? im gunna crank out 20 pounds at first see where it takes me and go from there, the A/R seems like it will do the job **** i might just slap in a water to air and run dry ice and acetone that will help out a bit.

so give me some combos for the bottom end and ill start pricing this beast out, thanks a ton guys this really helps a lot!!!!!!!

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

You guys and your damned altitude. Doesn't that thinner air = less cylinder pressure meaning that it all works out the same in the end? Not sure. We live down here in the swamp where the air is thick. LOL

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

Stock crank is good to over 1000hp. Pick a rod, there are several out there that will be good, Oliver is probably near the top. I like Wiseco pistons, but Diamond,Ross,etc. all make great boost pistons. Tool steel piston pins obviously.

Virginia Speed, AES, Erik Koenig(sp?), Kurt Urban are the 4 I'd talk to about specs and assembly.

xrambbc

yes you are right less cylinder pressure=less compression about a point is lost, and we lose about 2 psi so in all reality yes it does equal out when FI. N/A is a whole nother ball game, and that game im done with fat turbo here i come, how about if i lessen the hp goal to around 1000hp to the crank?? reasoning is i just took the truck to a weigh station and i through in a big chevy block in the back and heads to act as a full turbo setup on an aluminum ls and with me on it with the cage already installed and a 9 inch it comes to 2300!!!!!!!

so can i just run a stock ls1 with a cam and the turbo??? budget time lmfao

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

Holy featherweight!!

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

With a 4.175" bore we cram 40# through our sled.

pber13

FINALLY! someone who wants a fast drag vehicle with a stick shift!