kocapuff

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys, I really need some help here!

I have a 1998 Pontiac Trans Am with 65,000 miles on it and the LS1 motor. I put the vortech supercharger on it in 2005 (5 years ago). About 20,000 miles ago.

My wife was driving it and it threw all the belts. I thought it was just a bad belt that got in the way of the other belts. It was not.

When I got the stuff apart, the ATI harmonic balancer was sitting on the crank totally loose and with a very loose balancer bolt!

I took off the balancer and measured the crank snout that the balancer slips on too. The Crank snout is tapered from all of the spinning! It had to be doing a ton of spinning over the time.

Basically here are the measurements of the crankshaft snout now: Far back of the crank is 1.479 for only about a 1/4 inch forward. The rest of the crank forward (middle of crank snout) is about 1.465, the last 3/8 inch of the crank forward is well rounded and is at 1.436. I was told by ATI that they make their ATI damper hubs for the stock crankshaft snout size of 1.4815.

So there is about .047 thousandths difference from the back of the crank snout to the front of the crank snout! It is tapered larger in the back to smaller in front. So here is the big question guys, what can I do to not take the engine out and put a new crank in and get this current situation to work with a new ATI hub???? ATI will only make a custom hub size in ONE size, not in a taper of course.

Do you guys think that I can double pin the crank with the ATI kit and put a double key way ATI hub on it; then use metal epoxy weld like JB weld or permatex to take up the other tolerance? Once the balancer hub is in straight and laying against the back of the crank/oil pump put and additional 4 pins 1/4 inch size, drilled straight into the crank and ATI hub using the A&A kit to take up tolerance and prevent spinning? Do you think this would work? What are my options guys?

Please help, it's a sickening feeling. I never knew back in 2005 of the LS1 damper spinning problem or I would of pinned it then and the Vortech kit never said to. Again please help and honest opinions please. I don't want to have to spend all of the money of pulling the engine out and rebuild.

Thank you for your time.

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

man that sucks, you have to think though, that is a balancing tool for the engine so if its not perfect on the front of that crank you could really screw some **** up inside, my opinion epoxy/jb weld (no)

kbracing96

iTrader: (25)

Your only real option to kinda fix it short of replacing the crank is to 4 pin it. If the tolerance at the base of the hub will still be tight enough to give descent alignment, then when you drill and install the 4 pins, they will hold the outer, more warn part of the crank in alignment. It's a redneck fix at best, but about all you can do...

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I would try pinning it as has been suggested, what is the worst that can happen? The only alternative is to pull the engine and replace the crankshaft and balancer anyway, and at that point you might as well put good rods and pistons in it. Bob

novaflash2002

iTrader: (51)

going to sound redneck, but i would buy some .020 shim stock and put it around the crank, and then 4 pin it. thats about the closest you could come to having it centered up.

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

I would send balancer to ati to reinspect and pin the crank

2001WS6Vert

I gnarled up my crank on my stock motor from spinning. I pinned it and it worked fine.

kocapuff

iTrader: (1)

Description


Loctite 660 Quick Metal® is a creamy, non-running adhesive/sealant. Repairs worn machine parts and restores correct fit to mating assemblies. Fills gaps up to 0.020 inch diametral clearance.



The locktite 660 was specifically designed for the type of application I need it for. I already have the crank "double" pinned with the ATI kit for the fix. I am going to use the Locktite 660 with the Locktite 6649 Primer/cleaner. This locktite has been used by many other car engines that have run into the same problem and people have had great luck and use of it.

Do you guys think I also need to "double" pin the front of the crank with the A&A kit also? That would mean 4 pins? I already have it doubled pinned with the ATI pin kit and have a doubled keyed hub coming.

kbracing96

iTrader: (25)

I would use 4 pins (double pined). The locktight will help fill the gap, but that's all it's really doing is gap filling since the 4 pins will be holding it centered and transferring the load.

G Engines

Pull the engine and replace the crank its easier to fix it the correct way now than to have your crank break off and kill the block and who knows what else later.

kocapuff

iTrader: (1)

To all that responded Thank you for your input. My car is fixed and over 1000 miles and perfect! Yes I completed a large amount of research and went with a new ATI hub, stock size, (Cost $200.00) that is double keyed. I used the ATI pinning kit (Cost 130.00) and pin'd the crank both sides (twice) for the key ways on the ATI hub. I purchased the Locktite 6649 Primer/cleaner and Loctite 660 Quick Metal for fixing the tolerance issues (cost about $75.00 for products). Also put in a ARP LS1 Damper bolt for NO stretching (30.00). I purchased a Front pinning kit from "Bluvette1" for $55.00. "Awesome front pin kit". I front pinned my crank/ATI hub 4 times to take up any tolerance problems because the front of the cranks lost about .056 thousandths around total. I can tell you that you have to put the hub and crank together QUICK when using that loctite primer/cleaner. You have only about 5 minutes! Anyway a ton of work drilling and not much room but I got it all done. Balancer and all Pulleys spin true and NO problems. I even went with the smaller (max size 2.75 inch) pulley for my vortech supercharger and no issues. I did totally clean out my oil pan with the ATI harmonic hub off with a can of Brake cleaner to get any metal out of the pan from the spun front crank/ATI hub. I installed a new front seal and zero leaks. I installed Dual PCV Oil Catch cans on the system, which was a must! I used a can of Seafoam and completed a top head cleaning and about a can of Fuel injection spray in the intake/PCV system also. Car runs perfect, but I still need to get rid of my old NGK V power 1 step colder plugs.. I know I won't have another problem with a Spinning Harmonic Balancer!

kocapuff

iTrader: (1)

Go to: http://s1045.photobucket.com/albums/b456/Kocapuff/

I PUT THE IMAGES ON THE ABOVE SITE FOR YOU ALL TO SEE!

srxhair

Is your balancer repair still holding? How many miles? I have a 06 6l chevy that is spinning and throwing balancers and I don't want to change the crank. Any others make a repair like this?