conan

iTrader: (5)

Thanks man...

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

Damn dude I know I'm late but love the build... if I could start over and know what I k ow now I would have went FI for sure congratulations great detail man

oscs

iTrader: (19)

digging that air damn piece. I'll have to steal that idea if i have overheating issues.

conan

iTrader: (5)

Thanks man, you know its never too late, slap a blower on that new 383 and wake her up

Thanks, the air damn is working well. On hard pulls the coolant temp will hit 215-220 deg and quickly drop back down to the 190 range when cruising. It also supports the bottom of the bumper very well. The diamond plate is nice because you can scar a line in the metal with an angle grinder and then bend it very easy. Then I stitch weld the cut I made in the material.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

nice clean build, great job

conan

iTrader: (5)

Thank ya sir

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

I Was looking at a Maggie charger I love that whine but spending. Another 7k can't do it right nowlol

conan

iTrader: (5)

I hear you, forced induction stings the wallet for sure.

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

5 months later listening to your advice lol

conan

iTrader: (5)

You wont regret your forced induction decision, it will be a blast when its all together

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

Hey quick question. What size pulley are you running on the blower? Is that a 6 or 8 rib setup and what fuel pump are you running?

conan

iTrader: (5)

I have an 8 rib set up with the SDCE spring tensioner. So I run the 7.250" crank pully with a 3.7" blower pully and I see 9#'s of boost on 383ci @ 9.8:1 compression. I shift my car at 6,500 rpms that gives me a max blower speed of 52,219 rpm. The D1 has a 62,000 max speed so I still have 10,000 rpm left in my blower.
Here's the math... Crank pully size / blower pully size * internal step up * engine rpm = blower rpm. 7.250 / 3.7 * 4.1 * 6,500 = 52,219

Here's a link to procharger specs for the internal step up for the different blower models. http://www.procharger.com/models.shtml

I'm running lonnies intank double pumper with 60# injectors.

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

Hey thanks a bunch man.

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

Forgot to ask as well. Are you running a boost reference FPR? And what size injectors you got. That K's again

conan

iTrader: (5)

I'm running 60# injectors, and stock fuel pressure regulator. This is good to the 700-750 hp range. If I were you I would go right to some 80# injectors and not have to worry about the 60's running out of of steam any time soon.

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

OK keep doing research and finding out different things. People are saying that I need to run a boost reference FPR. So your pretty much using stocking fueling? Are you running any type of return line. What about the pumps? Which pump are you running?

conan

iTrader: (5)

I'm running Lonnies dual in tank pumps (255's) with his hot wire and hobbs switch harness, stock fuel pressure regulator, stock feed line, stock fuel rail, with 60# injectors. Lonnie and others have told me I'm good untill the 700-750 hp mark on this, then I'll have to upgrade to a return style system with a bigger feed line, bigger fuel rails, a boost reference regulator and 80# + injectors. I see 58psi of fuel pressure all the way to 6,500 rpm where I shift the car at.

So if I were you I would at least go 80# injectors and a dual in tank pump set up right from the start. Then upgrade the rest when you get sick of 700hp The pumps and injectors are good to the 800+ mark.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I agree, somewhere around the 700 rwhp mark is where things start to get expensive. Bob

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

OK thanks alot you and Bob has been the biggest help

conan

iTrader: (5)

How are you coming along with your project ?