russ K idle config works!
05-11-2013, 10:22 PM
#1
russ K idle config works! had trouble on and off with my idle.
everyone kept telling me it was the RAF (running air flow table)
but no one would offer up a fix haha, did some searching and found this russ K config file for HPtuners, obviously a histogram that builds a RAF table for you
excellent i can tell you it works.
everyone kept telling me it was the RAF (running air flow table)
but no one would offer up a fix haha, did some searching and found this russ K config file for HPtuners, obviously a histogram that builds a RAF table for you
excellent i can tell you it works.
05-12-2013, 12:15 PM
#4
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Is there any fix/suggestions that I can do on real low idle (700ish rpm) while driving on my LS4/Msquirt?
My LS4 is running great, I had it dyno'ed last week (no tuning the tuner didnt want to mess with tunerstudio) but the A/F was real good all through the pulls. My problem is on the hwy when I lock up the converter (above 55mph) it wants to surge and the A/F is all over the place. I cant seem to figure out how to tune this low of RPM while its driving.
Thanks~
My LS4 is running great, I had it dyno'ed last week (no tuning the tuner didnt want to mess with tunerstudio) but the A/F was real good all through the pulls. My problem is on the hwy when I lock up the converter (above 55mph) it wants to surge and the A/F is all over the place. I cant seem to figure out how to tune this low of RPM while its driving.
Thanks~
05-12-2013, 06:47 PM
#7
Is there any fix/suggestions that I can do on real low idle (700ish rpm) while driving on my LS4/Msquirt?
My LS4 is running great, I had it dyno'ed last week (no tuning the tuner didnt want to mess with tunerstudio) but the A/F was real good all through the pulls. My problem is on the hwy when I lock up the converter (above 55mph) it wants to surge and the A/F is all over the place. I cant seem to figure out how to tune this low of RPM while its driving.
Thanks~
My LS4 is running great, I had it dyno'ed last week (no tuning the tuner didnt want to mess with tunerstudio) but the A/F was real good all through the pulls. My problem is on the hwy when I lock up the converter (above 55mph) it wants to surge and the A/F is all over the place. I cant seem to figure out how to tune this low of RPM while its driving.
Thanks~
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05-12-2013, 10:16 PM
#11
in another thread where someone was saying their IAC was stuck high someone offered this
also try bending your throttle stop to shut the throttle more, so long as it does not bind up shutting you should be able to lower your IAC counts that way also, with the reset proceedure up top also
You need to relearn your IAC, it is reading 0.
They these steps.
IAC Relearn Procedure
If you are having idle issue you may need to reset your Idle Air Control (IAC) and
TPS, do this before you start drilling holes in your throttle body (TB) blade. I have
used this procedure on some huge cammed cars and it worked.
1) Monitor your IAC, Idle Speed, throttle position voltage and your throttle position %.
2) With the key in the ON position, adjust your TB set screw until your throttle position
is 2%.
3) Turn your key to the OFF position.
4) Unplug your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and IAC.
5) Turn your key to the ON position for a few seconds, and then OFF again.
6) Plug in the TPS and IAC and then turn your key to the ON position and restart
logging. Your throttle position will now be reset to 0 degrees and about .45-.55 volts.
7) Start your engine, your IAC should be 40-60 for a cammed engine.
if you are not at your desired IAC position redo the above procedures in smaller
increments.
They these steps.
IAC Relearn Procedure
If you are having idle issue you may need to reset your Idle Air Control (IAC) and
TPS, do this before you start drilling holes in your throttle body (TB) blade. I have
used this procedure on some huge cammed cars and it worked.
1) Monitor your IAC, Idle Speed, throttle position voltage and your throttle position %.
2) With the key in the ON position, adjust your TB set screw until your throttle position
is 2%.
3) Turn your key to the OFF position.
4) Unplug your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and IAC.
5) Turn your key to the ON position for a few seconds, and then OFF again.
6) Plug in the TPS and IAC and then turn your key to the ON position and restart
logging. Your throttle position will now be reset to 0 degrees and about .45-.55 volts.
7) Start your engine, your IAC should be 40-60 for a cammed engine.
if you are not at your desired IAC position redo the above procedures in smaller
increments.
05-13-2013, 01:47 AM
#12
Did any of you tweak the final RussK idle numbers before uploading the tune? I gave it a little more airflow and I still have some parking lot idle surge left in my 01 M6 WS6 with a 228/236 cam. Before the RussK fix I had much higher numbers, and the surge was worse.
Last edited by AbsolvedJD; 05-13-2013 at 01:54 AM.
05-13-2013, 07:44 AM
#13
I have tried the exact steps that denmah posted above. The guy who tuned my car even tried messing with it for the longest time. We checked for vacuum leaks, switched IAC's, etc. It starts and idles fine now, but still could use some tweaks. No matter what I command the idle to in HPTuners, it remains the same. Occasionally after driving it hard, then putting it into park, the idle will creep up above 1000 rpm and hang there. Other times is does not do this. I am not too concerned with how it is, I would just like to get it dialed in perfectly and lowering the idle from 950 would be nice too.
05-13-2013, 08:01 AM
#14
RussK gets the curve close for me. I usually end up giving it a few extra % across the whole table though. Most drivers don't notice if there is a little too much air at idle but all will when it dips too low. Of course go too high and it sticks. If you IAC count is maxed then you still need more air than the IAC can supply. Adjust the stop a bit or go old school and drill a hole...
If it is your personal car and you can change it multiple times you can dial it in even closer - for a customers you don't want to see multiple times I go on the safe side. And getting cold starts in the summer heat is hard to do so below ambient there is still some guessing.
If it is your personal car and you can change it multiple times you can dial it in even closer - for a customers you don't want to see multiple times I go on the safe side. And getting cold starts in the summer heat is hard to do so below ambient there is still some guessing.
05-13-2013, 09:30 AM
#16
If it is idleing high while driving it has too much air.
It could be RAF or it could be one of the other adders.
air, fuel, spark all play a roll so after changing air you may have to tweak the others again.
Idle may be on the low side. Use the scanner to play with idle speed and timing to find where it pulls the most vacuum and that is usually the sweet spot for idle.
It could be RAF or it could be one of the other adders.
air, fuel, spark all play a roll so after changing air you may have to tweak the others again.
Idle may be on the low side. Use the scanner to play with idle speed and timing to find where it pulls the most vacuum and that is usually the sweet spot for idle.
