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Boost activated cutout not working,Pics inside.UPDATE 5-21-2013

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Old 05-19-2013, 08:51 AM
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Default Boost activated cutout not working,Pics inside.UPDATE 5-21-2013

So I built my exhaust around having a boost activated cutout. I put a larger comp 88mm turbo on my car that requires a 4 inch dp. The way my hot side is I cant run a 4 inch through the bmr turbo k member. So my thought was 4 inch off dp to boost activated cutout, then a merge pipe that 3 inch through the k member to the rest of the exhaust. So when Im cruising and it doesn't need the best exhaust it goes through the muffler, then when it matters it opens and is free flowing out the dp.

Thing is it does not open. I have boost right off the comp cover, Its been bench tested and works. Sound performance has said that the issue is the dp flows right into the cutout and is keeping the blade shut. I would have thought the actuator could have over come this seeing as how its a cutout made to expel a lot of exhaust.

I have since put a qtp electric cutout in the same exact spot, that works great and stays open. Ive even opening it while in boost and it opens right up.

I really want the boost activated cut out, any ideas to make this thing work?

Thanks
Alex
Attached Thumbnails Boost activated cutout not working,Pics inside.UPDATE 5-21-2013-img_20130516_083614.jpg   Boost activated cutout not working,Pics inside.UPDATE 5-21-2013-img_20130516_095955.jpg   Boost activated cutout not working,Pics inside.UPDATE 5-21-2013-img_20130516_100026.jpg   Boost activated cutout not working,Pics inside.UPDATE 5-21-2013-img_20130516_100040.jpg  

Last edited by SPRAYED 01; 05-21-2013 at 09:36 AM.
Old 05-19-2013, 09:20 AM
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probably have to increase the size of the actuator if exhaust pressure is keeping it closed
Old 05-19-2013, 11:05 AM
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If you decide to stick with the electric cut out then contact QTP. They used to sell a controller that could be wired to a Wide Open Throttle switch which would open under WOT then close again when you let off.
Old 05-19-2013, 02:54 PM
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Really? Never heard of that. That would be awesome but it takes like 3 secs for the motor to open so I don't know how well that would work
Old 05-19-2013, 03:16 PM
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Should work fine. Few people run them like that and have no issues.
Old 05-19-2013, 04:06 PM
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From the way you have the 3" plumbed, I'd say that Sound Performance is correct...
Old 05-19-2013, 05:01 PM
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If they are right about the exhaust keeping it shut they should warn of them possibly not working. I made the exhaust that way planning on it working. Black panther, do you know if the people running them like mine were using the sound performance units?
Old 05-20-2013, 05:50 AM
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What about a hobbs switch/boost switch where it opens at xx psi? That would work with the electronic as well I would think.
Old 05-20-2013, 06:55 AM
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It might but the motor takes about 3 to 4 secs to open.
Old 05-20-2013, 07:11 AM
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Damn I really want one of those! but not if it doesn't work....
Old 05-20-2013, 08:32 AM
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Like I said they told me because its at the end of my dp in direct flow is why it doesn't work. If you had it in a ypipe it would be out of direct flow and probably work.. Bs if you ask me, its there to let out the most exhaust as possibly, what's the point if it won't open under extreme flow
Old 05-20-2013, 09:40 AM
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I want a pneumatic one like that instead of my electric

I thought sound performance was the only one who had one but doesn't look like it. Whose is that?

It operates properly using regulated compressed air?
Old 05-20-2013, 09:44 AM
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It would take a lot more work than just adding a a Hobbs switch to an electric cutout

The gear motors have no feedback. It has no idea of its position. Hence why they use momentary switches
Old 05-20-2013, 09:54 AM
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It looks like a wastegate actuator.

what if your not running enough boost to open it. say it is set for 14 lbs before it opens, and you're only running 10. it will still be waiting for you too hit 14 to open. bench testing i'm assuming meant compressed air which who knows how much psi but i'm sure was more than 14. just throwing out my thoughts.
Old 05-20-2013, 10:03 AM
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Its a sound performance cutout. I bench tested with a gauge. Starts to crack at 1psi,fully open at 10. I've tried up to 10psi intake psi which is actually more at the comp housing. Still nothing
Old 05-20-2013, 10:35 AM
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It doesnt make sense that it is being held shut... Since it is a rotational valve, there should be equal forces on each half of the blade. Trying to open it = trying to keep it closed.


Another idea, is there a way to hook it up to exhuast back pressure... Since back pressure is ~3 times the charge pressue...

PS, I want one of these. but I won't be running it on a traditional Y either... Mine will be similar to yours, with 4" out the bumper and 3" to the stock catback.

I hope you get this figured out, or I will not be ordering one.
Old 05-20-2013, 11:23 AM
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What about buying a larger diameter pneumatic cylinder (for more force)?
Old 05-20-2013, 11:26 AM
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Actually i could very easily hook it up to exhaust back pressure. I already have a test port that is the same size at the actuatos port. My only concern would be its going to be hot exhaust going in the actuator. Will it burn it up?
Old 05-20-2013, 11:29 AM
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Punisher, my thoughts exactly on the equal pressure thing. If anything it should be easier to open since at idle it has a leak through the blade. They also said that's from the direct flow. Im waiting on the owner to call me back to see what can be done. At the very least I hope they take it back.
Old 05-20-2013, 11:30 AM
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Couple feet of coiled copper off the exhaust good to go


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