ToxicWS6

so i have a forged rods and low CR pistons in a 347 ls1, it ended up spinning rod bearings so the crank and rods are trash, pistons are still good and probably have 2500 miles on them.

my original thoughts was buy new forged rods and new factory crank and get it back together as it was (and use a diff engine builder this time lol) well after pricing it out i could pay just a few hundred more and buy a whole 383 rotating assembly and turn it into a 383 and then sell the pistons to recoupe some money

if u had this engine/situation which would u do, rebuild it as a 347 or order a 383 rotating assembly and build a 383 out of it?

this is going to be a street driven turbo car thats occasionally used for 1/4 mile and road race courses

HexenLord

If the final price is going to be roughly the same, might as well go with the 383 and start fresh. It'll perform better on the road courses out of corners that way.

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

Yeah a few hundred more would be enough to convince me to up the anty.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

What T76 do you have? Id stay 347.

1fast bird

iTrader: (22)

Exactly what I was thinking. If it was me, I would get a stock crank and new rods....unless a turbo upgrade is in your future.

ezstriper

going to the larger engine with that turbo may not help power wise...figure out why the bearings spun 1st off, proceed from there

ToxicWS6

the rod bearings spun cause the guy who put the rods on mixed all the caps on then if i was to guess didnt torque correctly cause the rod bolts all broke loose with differnt tightness, and the turbo specs are 1.0ar exhaust and .72 comp, master powers 76

for some reason i just remember hearing 383s arnt good for turbos but never got a solid answer why, id love to have the low end for street driving/non boost driving.

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

Saying a 383 ci engine isn't good for boost is incorrect unless you get there by boring the engine and making thin sleeves. Id go 383 and a tc 76/75. It will be right around the same size as your current and work better on the 383.

Most ideal would be twins or a single t6 but if your not shooting for the stars here you don't need it.

Alex

ToxicWS6

ight, yeah i didnt quite get why a 383 would be bad, wsnt sure if it was crank stroke or what but the sleeve thing makes sense, with that being said

do i send the block out to get bored by a machine shop or do i need new sleeves? whats the "correct" way to make it a 383

and what would my current turbo do, just not push that well up top and choke out the engine? i want something thats as close to instant spool per say as i can, again this isnt a drag car i sit and spool then go so

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

You can get a Stroker kit for the ls1 and make it a 382 or 3 with out much of a bore. It will spool pretty instant with yours and a tc76/75, or a precision 76. Just your turbo is going to have a ton more pressure and drop in power probably around 5k. Go bigger it will be safer and make more power

LT1RAY

iTrader: (21)

I would stay the same cubes and ditch the cam since it has 6 degrees of overlap. What are your power goals?

DETROIT_AREA_00_SS

iTrader: (7)

383 and a good custom cam from Tick

ToxicWS6

i thought about if i made the effort to have a 383 to probably get a custom specd cam

power goals on 93 are a reliable and healthy 600-700 rwhp,

im probably at 500rwhp on my current 5.3 with 243 heads and epp cam on 12 psi

when the 347 were discussing spun bearings a $500 5.3 was the cheapest fix to get car back on road so thats what i got now

the extra low end of a 383 is kinda what i was lookin for too but mainly made this to talk about my options and see what other knowledgeable people (you all lol) thought whould be a good way to go

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

You could mid 600 hp on a stock 5.3 and your current turbo. That would be the cheapest. Do that, your end torque will be fine with the 5.3