Auto or 6 spd big power
#1
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Auto or 6 spd big power
This is the time for all people to brag about their trans
i have a weekly driver 2000 ta w/ a 6.0 and f1 procharger making 650 rwhp w/ meth & tuned down with twin coolers 6 spd (trying to keep the power low until i can replace everything in drive line,i think it could make around 900 w/ fmic and smaller pulleys) and i broke some synchros and who knows what else. I just put in a Mcloeod rxt clutch and i just brock it in b4 this all happened, which was replaced bc the Master and slave went bad.i think the power is just traveling down the drive line and breaking everything that wont hold it which make sense . i dont go to the strip much now prob twice a year but as i get older im sure it will turn into more of a strip car.
Point is i think this is where i decide if im going to go auto and maybe stall it or buy a upgraded 6spd?? If you suggest switching to auto and you have switched from stick let me know what it takes to switch and how much of a pain in the *** it is??
Thanks guys
i have a weekly driver 2000 ta w/ a 6.0 and f1 procharger making 650 rwhp w/ meth & tuned down with twin coolers 6 spd (trying to keep the power low until i can replace everything in drive line,i think it could make around 900 w/ fmic and smaller pulleys) and i broke some synchros and who knows what else. I just put in a Mcloeod rxt clutch and i just brock it in b4 this all happened, which was replaced bc the Master and slave went bad.i think the power is just traveling down the drive line and breaking everything that wont hold it which make sense . i dont go to the strip much now prob twice a year but as i get older im sure it will turn into more of a strip car.
Point is i think this is where i decide if im going to go auto and maybe stall it or buy a upgraded 6spd?? If you suggest switching to auto and you have switched from stick let me know what it takes to switch and how much of a pain in the *** it is??
Thanks guys
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#7
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i did the switch. i love being a manual, but my goals of 1000rwhp+ shoot drive ability out the window pretty much with an M6. Also, going manual is more expensive in the long run. $4500-$5000 for a TR6060. I say a TR6060, because a full weight car with a T56 (even a built one) wont hold the torque.
The T56 gear set is physically too small. the gear faces are too narrow and the gears sheer right through the tranny fluid, super heating the gears causing them to fail. Not to mention clutches start out around the $1300 mark and go up. and most of them become an on/off type clutch, so no slipping it making it a pain to drive. for some, they may not mind it, but it would get on my nerves personally.
I ordered a level 5 RPM 4l80e, and im going with a specd Vigilante Stall. probably around the 3200-3600 area.
Staying 6speed would be a blast, but its expensive... A stalled auto will be just as fun
The T56 gear set is physically too small. the gear faces are too narrow and the gears sheer right through the tranny fluid, super heating the gears causing them to fail. Not to mention clutches start out around the $1300 mark and go up. and most of them become an on/off type clutch, so no slipping it making it a pain to drive. for some, they may not mind it, but it would get on my nerves personally.
I ordered a level 5 RPM 4l80e, and im going with a specd Vigilante Stall. probably around the 3200-3600 area.
Staying 6speed would be a blast, but its expensive... A stalled auto will be just as fun
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#8
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If you stay on the street and keep them tires spinning a little things will last. I made 755 on 17psi. Now on 20psi, still on bone stock t56, monster level 3 clutch/flywheel, stock torque arm, completely stock 10 bolt, all pushed with 28" m/t slicks. I keep the slicks aired up pretty good though so they spin a little. All is still alive and working great. No track outtings though lol. And slicks haven't been on there to long.
Start trying to run times with a m6 though and may get expensive. Clutches, beefed up trans. Still doesn't change how fun it is.
Start trying to run times with a m6 though and may get expensive. Clutches, beefed up trans. Still doesn't change how fun it is.
Last edited by mrstepheneades; 01-05-2014 at 05:27 PM.
#9
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i broke my 10 bolt after about 6 months of 383rwhp N/A, and 6 months of boosted 571rwhp. broke her in 2nd gear spinning the tires.. the T56 was going down hill as well. 1-2 shifts were hard, and the 2-3 shift was damn near impossible at redline. i had to force it into reverse as well. total of about 10 track passes after the 9" was installed. that was on a baby 467rwtq as well..
a tick master cylinder did help much either. at first it did, but it quick diminished
a tick master cylinder did help much either. at first it did, but it quick diminished
#10
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i broke my 10 bolt after about 6 months of 383rwhp N/A, and 6 months of boosted 571rwhp. broke her in 2nd gear spinning the tires.. the T56 was going down hill as well. 1-2 shifts were hard, and the 2-3 shift was damn near impossible at redline. i had to force it into reverse as well. total of about 10 track passes after the 9" was installed. that was on a baby 467rwtq as well..
a tick master cylinder did help much either. at first it did, but it quick diminished
a tick master cylinder did help much either. at first it did, but it quick diminished
#12
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Found out you can't hot lap the monster 3 clutch either. Gets hot will not hold. Afraid if I go now that I have 2step and 200 more rwhp all will grenade and be roll backing it back home lol.
#13
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i did the switch. i love being a manual, but my goals of 1000rwhp+ shoot drive ability out the window pretty much with an M6. Also, going manual is more expensive in the long run. $4500-$5000 for a TR6060. I say a TR6060, because a full weight car with a T56 (even a built one) wont hold the torque.
The T56 gear set is physically too small. the gear faces are too narrow and the gears sheer right through the tranny fluid, super heating the gears causing them to fail. Not to mention clutches start out around the $1300 mark and go up. and most of them become an on/off type clutch, so no slipping it making it a pain to drive. for some, they may not mind it, but it would get on my nerves personally.
I ordered a level 5 RPM 4l80e, and im going with a specd Vigilante Stall. probably around the 3200-3600 area.
Staying 6speed would be a blast, but its expensive... A stalled auto will be just as fun
The T56 gear set is physically too small. the gear faces are too narrow and the gears sheer right through the tranny fluid, super heating the gears causing them to fail. Not to mention clutches start out around the $1300 mark and go up. and most of them become an on/off type clutch, so no slipping it making it a pain to drive. for some, they may not mind it, but it would get on my nerves personally.
I ordered a level 5 RPM 4l80e, and im going with a specd Vigilante Stall. probably around the 3200-3600 area.
Staying 6speed would be a blast, but its expensive... A stalled auto will be just as fun
Driveability ? My T56 drives like stock...largely because it is mostly stock ? Unless you make major changes inside like faceplating etc, it will always drive and shift like stock ?
As for fun, again that depends on use. An auto would be pretty **** around a racetrack etc
But as said, for mostly straight line, or even dossing about town, auto's can be great
#14
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ACT Twin organic is rated to around 1200lbft. Heavy pedal yes, engages smooth as factory. I have the lighter version rated at about 950
Driveability ? My T56 drives like stock...largely because it is mostly stock ? Unless you make major changes inside like faceplating etc, it will always drive and shift like stock ?
As for fun, again that depends on use. An auto would be pretty **** around a racetrack etc
But as said, for mostly straight line, or even dossing about town, auto's can be great
Driveability ? My T56 drives like stock...largely because it is mostly stock ? Unless you make major changes inside like faceplating etc, it will always drive and shift like stock ?
As for fun, again that depends on use. An auto would be pretty **** around a racetrack etc
But as said, for mostly straight line, or even dossing about town, auto's can be great
#16
9 Second Club
well i did say most clutches. how much power/tq are you making? Jeremy @ rpm swayed me away from the built T56 because of the amount of torque im probably going to be making. So i purcahsed their level 5 80e. when i was speaking about the T56 not holding up, that came from him. a higher torque producing car will be on borrowed time with a stock T56.
Havent a clue, dyno's are bullshit as far as I am concerned. You simply cannot believe half the numbers posted, especially when the cars performances dont back up the numbers.
Not enough though
I do agree torque is a killer, and making it all live together will be far easier with an auto.
But I know for my own car, as long as I have 2 legs my car will never be an auto.
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Personally, I am not a huge track person. I would like to go more, but it just isn't what I aim for. That being said, even if I were to go a couple times a year, it doesn not justify me altering one of the things most manual lovers love about their car- that is rowing through gears in everyday scenarios (with the power). Now with our HP levels, we obviously have to make sure we have a transmission to hold the power. There are a lot of issues the automatics have with big hp cars as well, so it's not like you spend $3000 and you're golden on the auto route. So I am willing to spend the extra few thousands to retain my manual under warranty for a year and drive it with a little more piece of mind. The $5k price tag did hurt a little.
#19
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Havent a clue, dyno's are bullshit as far as I am concerned. You simply cannot believe half the numbers posted, especially when the cars performances dont back up the numbers.
Not enough though
I do agree torque is a killer, and making it all live together will be far easier with an auto.
But I know for my own car, as long as I have 2 legs my car will never be an auto.
Not enough though
I do agree torque is a killer, and making it all live together will be far easier with an auto.
But I know for my own car, as long as I have 2 legs my car will never be an auto.
Personally, I am not a huge track person. I would like to go more, but it just isn't what I aim for. That being said, even if I were to go a couple times a year, it doesn not justify me altering one of the things most manual lovers love about their car- that is rowing through gears in everyday scenarios (with the power). Now with our HP levels, we obviously have to make sure we have a transmission to hold the power. There are a lot of issues the automatics have with big hp cars as well, so it's not like you spend $3000 and you're golden on the auto route. So I am willing to spend the extra few thousands to retain my manual under warranty for a year and drive it with a little more piece of mind. The $5k price tag did hurt a little.