OLSD - Hptuners guys, iat fueling fix?
#1
OLSD - Hptuners guys, iat fueling fix?
hptuners guys, only one thing bothering me lately with Speed density tunes is they are sensitive to inlet temp, at least this is what i gather, if a car is idling forever and IAT slowly climbs, fueling leans out slightly, enough to be annoying if the car is dialed in perfect, or if you are driving in crazy stop go, hot traffic, IE ocean city. i noticed if the car is idling say 14.0 AFR perfectly, at 70f inlet temp, and you let it sit till it hits like 90, you are near 15-16.0 afr already, if you unplug the IAT and it goes to -32deg, it starts running 10.0 AFR, for the life of me i cant find what table this is, i would love to adjust it, or is it something else i have to touch. thanks!
i have heard of people installing two IATs and a hob switch to move to the intake one on boost, and the one in a safe spot for driving and starting
i have heard of people installing two IATs and a hob switch to move to the intake one on boost, and the one in a safe spot for driving and starting
#3
yeah that is only water temp though not engine temp
i usually adjust that slightly or leave in the modded one i have from other cars.
here is the thing, if the car is at 70IAT and 13.0 afr, and i dont touch anything and it hits 100IAT it will be 15-16.0 AFR by then
while its runnig if i unplug the IAT it goes to -32 IAT obviously and goes 10.0 AFR
there is something that the IAT is directly affecting coolant temp aside...
i usually adjust that slightly or leave in the modded one i have from other cars.
here is the thing, if the car is at 70IAT and 13.0 afr, and i dont touch anything and it hits 100IAT it will be 15-16.0 AFR by then
while its runnig if i unplug the IAT it goes to -32 IAT obviously and goes 10.0 AFR
there is something that the IAT is directly affecting coolant temp aside...
#6
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You may find what you're looking for in Engine Diagnostics-Airflow-IAT Sensor Cal.
It's funny you mention this at about the exact time I discovered my IAT sensor cal got way out of whack when I upgraded to a 2 bar OS. It wouldn't run for crap. It was thinking my IAT's were about 300 degrees, which I'm sure threw off the SD calculations in the PCM. Hopefully with my sensor calibration fixed it will run on the 2 bar OS now.
Edit: Of course if you manipulate that IAT sensor table it would be a bandaid, and may affect other things besides fueling calcs.
It's funny you mention this at about the exact time I discovered my IAT sensor cal got way out of whack when I upgraded to a 2 bar OS. It wouldn't run for crap. It was thinking my IAT's were about 300 degrees, which I'm sure threw off the SD calculations in the PCM. Hopefully with my sensor calibration fixed it will run on the 2 bar OS now.
Edit: Of course if you manipulate that IAT sensor table it would be a bandaid, and may affect other things besides fueling calcs.
Last edited by LTstewy8; 02-05-2014 at 11:00 PM.
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#11
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
you have to play with the charge temp bias table to get IAT's to not effect things
years ago, I founds that on Fbody cars.. you could flatten out the cylinder bias table and work on it little by little..
start with all values at 1.0... and slowly move them till you get the results you need
you will find that at the left side of the table its going to be slightly higher than 1.0, and at the right side its going to be less than 1.0
some cars need it to be just a little bit away, some need a lot...
you just have to play with it...its very IAT placement dependent.
you can also use the IAT adder tables if you really just want to wing it at WOT during PE
personally...OLSD is the stupidest thing you can do...
at part throttle, regular closed loop does a great job...and it goes into open loop automatically when you get into PE..
there really is no reason to turn off closed loop unless you just dont have any o2 sensors, or unless you have open headers with o2 sensors too close to open air to read correctly.
years ago, I founds that on Fbody cars.. you could flatten out the cylinder bias table and work on it little by little..
start with all values at 1.0... and slowly move them till you get the results you need
you will find that at the left side of the table its going to be slightly higher than 1.0, and at the right side its going to be less than 1.0
some cars need it to be just a little bit away, some need a lot...
you just have to play with it...its very IAT placement dependent.
you can also use the IAT adder tables if you really just want to wing it at WOT during PE
personally...OLSD is the stupidest thing you can do...
at part throttle, regular closed loop does a great job...and it goes into open loop automatically when you get into PE..
there really is no reason to turn off closed loop unless you just dont have any o2 sensors, or unless you have open headers with o2 sensors too close to open air to read correctly.
#14
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
I ended up moving my sensor further from the TB and closer to my FMIC outlet - it is now under my headlight/fuse box (F-body) and away from any engine bay heat. Car can idle forever without impacting afr.
Initially I had two concerns:
-potential for accuracy issue due to not being close enough to the engine
-I now needed to place my meth nozzle further from TB in order to spray before IAT
I did some quick calculations based on cfm and tube diameter and figured out that the air is moving at over 200 mph. 200mph for 36inches happens so fast that I stopped worrying about the small potential for a temp differential and the meth nozzle located further away. Basically there is not enough time for the air column to pick up a significant amount of heat in 36 inches of pipe with the small (relatively speaking) temp difference between the new location and TB. An added benefit is that it allows the meth to better atomize before the TB.
I've been running like this for 2+ years now and am much happier with how the car runs.
Initially I had two concerns:
-potential for accuracy issue due to not being close enough to the engine
-I now needed to place my meth nozzle further from TB in order to spray before IAT
I did some quick calculations based on cfm and tube diameter and figured out that the air is moving at over 200 mph. 200mph for 36inches happens so fast that I stopped worrying about the small potential for a temp differential and the meth nozzle located further away. Basically there is not enough time for the air column to pick up a significant amount of heat in 36 inches of pipe with the small (relatively speaking) temp difference between the new location and TB. An added benefit is that it allows the meth to better atomize before the TB.
I've been running like this for 2+ years now and am much happier with how the car runs.
#17
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Not boosted, yet. But I did the same thing. Move the IAT further away from the engine heat and played with the bias a little. Made a HUGE difference. I don't get any timing pulled anymore. I'm sure I would if I had FI intake temps though but it would be controlled and not peg the timing retard.
I remember when I made the change initially on a nearly stock motor. It honestly felt like I got 20-30hp just from moving a heat soaked IAT and the bias cal.
I remember when I made the change initially on a nearly stock motor. It honestly felt like I got 20-30hp just from moving a heat soaked IAT and the bias cal.