JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Motor is getting checked at the moment stock bottom L33, tu1 cam, 317s.

I done have dual walbro255 and 80lb injectors. I'm ready to order the hot side, inter cooler, bov, and wastegate. This is k budget build so eBay is a good thing.

Ordering my bends from Columbia river, do I need the ultimate builder package or super build? This is my first time so extra could be good. 2 1/4"? SS304 but what gauge? And since I've never cut stainless or welded it, will my chop saw cut it? Harbor freight Mig be enough to weld the hot side?

Stay tuned, I'm sure there will be more dumb questions soon to follow. I appreciate any advice.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

No love? I'd love to order some parts..

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

You need to research alot more.

2" piping is large enough for a gt45 build. 2.25 is overkill IMO. 2" is Easier to work with and is cheaper. SS is great, but not necessary. It's expensive and you need a nice shielded gas mig and tri-gas to weld it. (not cheap). Your chop saw will cut SS fine.

2" 16g or thicker aluminized steel would be my choice. It's dirt cheap and welds easily with any mig. (even harbor freight junk). I've had good luck with OBX and cxracing ebay "junk" for WG,piping,IC,BOV etc...

Good luck.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

You calling welder junk??

I've been reading for 4 months. Learned tons but obviously still need to learn more. My welder is set up on tri gas for what its worth. I had read a thread that was saying anything other than SS would start to rust over time, that was reasoning behind saying stainless.

What about a recommendation on the waste gate and bov? I've already been lookin at cx but don't know which ones will suit my needs

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I have more orange tools than I care to admit... If it works, it works.

Yes, 10 years form now your $120 hotside may rust a bit. Not really a big concern if you ask me. Paint it and wrap it. you did say you were on a budget. More power to you for going with SS though. It is nicer.

Any 40-50m WG/BOV should work great. Just read up on how to place them properly.

If you've been researching for 4 months you should know how to use the search function... Search "wastegate" under forced induction and a several hundred threads pop up.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

I've sub'd threads about placement and sizing, just figured I would ask while someone was responding..

Build is not so much budget cause my wallet but more so cause I know I'll probably mess something up. I'll check on the aluminium steel when I get home, probably place that order.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Ordered my aluminIzed steel 2" hot side last night, also ordered 2 cones to make the transition from the manifolds. Got confused when i want to order the turbo flange though. There was a ton of them and I couldn't figure it out. Any know which one I will need from Columbia river?

As far as eBay intercoolers, APA most people using the cx 31x12x3?

jay_rich

iTrader: (8)

For the price just go with 31x12x4. Its not much more.

Depends do you want it divided or not? You will need 2 wastegates if divided. Unless you merge them to the wastegate. Id say just get the standard open T4 flange.


Jay

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Thanks bro, sounds like merging the pipes and running one gate would be simpler. I'll check out the 4" version.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I used this one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-UNIVERSAL-BAR-PLATE-ALUMINUM-TURBO-31-x12-x4-FMIC-INTERCOOLER-/331080748720?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d15f34eb0&vxp=mtr
Prob. fine for your build.

Honestly this one may flow better despite it being a tad smaller. It would also allow you to use 2.5" intercooler piping. Which is also cheaper, easier to work with, and plenty large for your build.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Godspeed-Intercooler-Type-Z-26-5x10-5x3-Honda-Universal-/181313418264?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a371f3418&vxp=mtr
As far as the turbo flange goes they sell a T4 merge to 2.5" flange. I'd go that route. It will be the easiest to install. You'll have to bump the 2" up to 2.5 right at the flange.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Thanks forcefed. I'll just get another cone today when i order the flange. It should be an interesting build. Never fab'd anything before, limited experience welding.

Would you recommend buying just the inter cooler itself and the coldside stuff separately? I seen on the cx kit that it came with aluminum piping. Should I just get the aluminIzed steel like I ordered for the hot side?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Up to you. I used steel because it was cheap and easier for me to weld. Alum is lighter, and won’t corrode. Since you don’t have a tig you may end up with tons of couplings if you use aluminum. All possible boost leaks and failure points. Even if you go with the 3" inlet/outlet IC, I’d use 2.5” charge piping and just neck it up to 3” at the IC inlet/outlet

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Alright, that sounds fine. Difference in pricing without piping is 100$, that about the price I'd pay for the piping anyways. Still use couplings on the in/out though, right?