Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Over heating issues, totally dumbfounded

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-05-2014, 11:11 AM
  #1  
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
s25hanh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default Over heating issues, totally dumbfounded

Hi guys, I have a 99 camaro z28 with 5.3 TT front mounted. I cannot figure out why its overheating, I usually never post on here until its the last draw. And its the last draw. 160* t-stat, fans come on at 176* (two 10in ebay fans, 850cfm each). Bleed the system multiple times.

Cold start it will idle and get to about 190* and never go over.... Until I start driving, then the temps will rise to about 210*. Sitting in traffic is the worst. It will rise to 220-225* and then SLOWLY go down to about to 215* driving but thats about it.

I still have the factory air dam on and turbo blankets. The only thing I can come up with is the lower rad hose is RIGHT above the passenger turbo. Please help, this issue has stopped me from driving it for about a month now.
Old 07-05-2014, 11:17 AM
  #2  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
 
asubennett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

What are you using for coolant crossover on the motor? If using a kit and the highest port of that kit is higher than your radiator cap you will have a hell of a time bleeding the car no matter how many times you have tried.
Old 07-05-2014, 11:22 AM
  #3  
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
s25hanh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by asubennett
What are you using for coolant crossover on the motor? If using a kit and the highest port of that kit is higher than your radiator cap you will have a hell of a time bleeding the car no matter how many times you have tried.
stock ls coolant crossover
Old 07-05-2014, 11:32 AM
  #4  
9 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
 
willizm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Did you burp all the air pockets out? Was it a fresh built motor?
Old 07-05-2014, 11:34 AM
  #5  
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
s25hanh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by willizm
Did you burp all the air pockets out? Was it a fresh built motor?
Yes its a fresh build and I bleed it with the rad cap off, cold start, and let it cycle through with the heater on full blast.
Old 07-05-2014, 11:59 AM
  #6  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (7)
 
forcd ind's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: woodbine, md
Posts: 4,116
Received 230 Likes on 162 Posts

Default

i always fill the block from the top hose, lets water get behind the thermostat
I gotta ask, are the fans wired correct, blowing inward-I have seen several times wired wrong
also do you have an A/A IC'er, blocking the radiator
the fans may just not be moving enough air
Old 07-05-2014, 12:03 PM
  #7  
Banned
iTrader: (2)
 
LS6427's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: South Florida
Posts: 11,291
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by s25hanh
Hi guys, I have a 99 camaro z28 with 5.3 TT front mounted. I cannot figure out why its overheating, I usually never post on here until its the last draw. And its the last draw. 160* t-stat, fans come on at 176* (two 10in ebay fans, 850cfm each). Bleed the system multiple times.

Cold start it will idle and get to about 190* and never go over.... Until I start driving, then the temps will rise to about 210*. Sitting in traffic is the worst. It will rise to 220-225* and then SLOWLY go down to about to 215* driving but thats about it.

I still have the factory air dam on and turbo blankets. The only thing I can come up with is the lower rad hose is RIGHT above the passenger turbo. Please help, this issue has stopped me from driving it for about a month now.
Did you remove the factory shroud....? is it still sealed to the front of the condensor just like it was from the factory...?

Also, believe it or not....a 180 tstat will help more than a 160. More time for the coolant to cool off sitting in the radiator before it goes back into the engine/heads. Once those 160 tstats open and its above 190-200 that tstat will never fully close and the hot coolant just keeps moving and getting hotter and hotter........then its all over......
The tstat must be allowed to close......

But without the shroud in place like it was from the factory....you will never run proper temps.

Also.....aren't the factory fans 1,200 cfm each.....? Not sure but I thought so.....

......also....make sure BOTH fans are coming on together.......in both low and high settings. They always run together.....

.
Old 07-05-2014, 12:18 PM
  #8  
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
s25hanh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by forcd ind
i always fill the block from the top hose, lets water get behind the thermostat
I gotta ask, are the fans wired correct, blowing inward-I have seen several times wired wrong
also do you have an A/A IC'er, blocking the radiator
the fans may just not be moving enough air
Yes they are wired correctly because I tried switching the wires to making the fans pushers and made the problem worse. I do have an a/a IC basically blocking the rad. I don't know what fans I could go with though

Originally Posted by LS6427
Did you remove the factory shroud....? is it still sealed to the front of the condensor just like it was from the factory...?

Also, believe it or not....a 180 tstat will help more than a 160. More time for the coolant to cool off sitting in the radiator before it goes back into the engine/heads. Once those 160 tstats open and its above 190-200 that tstat will never fully close and the hot coolant just keeps moving and getting hotter and hotter........then its all over......
The tstat must be allowed to close......

But without the shroud in place like it was from the factory....you will never run proper temps.

Also.....aren't the factory fans 1,200 cfm each.....? Not sure but I thought so.....

......also....make sure BOTH fans are coming on together.......in both low and high settings. They always run together.....

.
No AC so I don't have the condenser. I can't fit the factory fans with the turbos being right behind the rad. Hmmm I might try going to a 180* t stat then. And both fans come on and they are at the high setting all the time past 176*
Old 07-05-2014, 01:32 PM
  #9  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (9)
 
ablakez28's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 790
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Do you have a picture of the fans and the shroud? I battled cooling on my old RX7. Best I ever got was a 200-205 in traffic temp.

Also sorry if i missed it but what rad? Stock?
Old 07-05-2014, 06:32 PM
  #10  
FormerVendor
 
Chris@CBR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 547
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Can you post a pic of your setup? Have you done the LT1 rad upgrade?
Old 07-05-2014, 06:35 PM
  #11  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
tonypaul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Do you have the fans as pullers or pushers? I bet those fans are not strong enough...
Old 07-05-2014, 07:13 PM
  #12  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (28)
 
Cam72aro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sugar Land, Tx
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

You need a lot more fan to start with.
Old 07-05-2014, 09:39 PM
  #13  
On The Tree
 
fire67bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Check your timing and AFR. The link below is for carb. engine but the principles are the same:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/timi...ng-160577.html
Old 07-05-2014, 10:06 PM
  #14  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
 
oscs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,903
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LS6427
Did you remove the factory shroud....? is it still sealed to the front of the condensor just like it was from the factory...? Also, believe it or not....a 180 tstat will help more than a 160. More time for the coolant to cool off sitting in the radiator before it goes back into the engine/heads. Once those 160 tstats open and its above 190-200 that tstat will never fully close and the hot coolant just keeps moving and getting hotter and hotter........then its all over...... The tstat must be allowed to close...... But without the shroud in place like it was from the factory....you will never run proper temps. Also.....aren't the factory fans 1,200 cfm each.....? Not sure but I thought so..... ......also....make sure BOTH fans are coming on together.......in both low and high settings. They always run together..... .
Letting your coolant "sit" in your radiator to have more time to cool is a myth And has been proven many times. Do some more reading.

OP your 160 thermostat is fine
Old 07-05-2014, 10:18 PM
  #15  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
 
oscs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,903
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

I'm a bit confused. You say @ cold start it will idle @190 with no issues? But when you start driving it over heats?
Old 07-06-2014, 12:50 AM
  #16  
On The Tree
 
turboventura's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If you are running an automatic trans keep your trans cooler off the rad, my car never got hot but when I put a large plate style trans cooler in front of the radiator (touching it with those plastic things that connect through the rad) I started getting hot while driving. Relocated to somewhere else on the core support and its staying cool now. It's also an unlocked th400 with 3500 stall and 3.23 gear so it makes some heat.
Old 07-06-2014, 02:30 AM
  #17  
Teching In
 
lysergic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

almost guarantee its your fans. they are not up to the task.
Old 07-06-2014, 02:32 AM
  #18  
Teching In
 
lysergic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

dont bother chasing anything else until you put some big powerful fans on there. i have been through this. use two of these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16925

MAKE them fit
Old 07-06-2014, 08:11 AM
  #19  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (28)
 
Cam72aro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sugar Land, Tx
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by lysergic
dont bother chasing anything else until you put some big powerful fans on there. i have been through this. use two of these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16925

MAKE them fit
X2. Those eBay fans are junk. Get these fans to start with then go from there.
Old 07-06-2014, 08:17 AM
  #20  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
 
oscs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,903
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

His car idles @190 with no issues.. but over heats when he starts driving. The fans are NOT where I would start looking.


Quick Reply: Over heating issues, totally dumbfounded



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:43 AM.