My first turbo build - 01 WS6 with On3 A/C kit and Turbonetics 7575 **VERYLONG READ**
09-13-2014, 06:06 PM
#1
My first turbo build - 01 WS6 with On3 A/C kit and Turbonetics 7575 **updated 3/13/16 Build Items –
Turbonetics 7575 Billet Turbo
317 Heads
Ls1 Tick stage 2 cam
160k stock bottom end LS1, stock Trans and stock 10 bolt rear end
LS9 MLS Head Gasket
Procomp head studs
On3 A/C Kit with 4” IC
PA Racing K-member
80# Injectors
Total project cost - $5,130
Been planning to boost my wife’s TA for a while now and slowly scrounged up the funds over the past year to make it happen. This is my first ever turbo vehicle and tons of research was done before hand to make sure I didn’t end up against a wall with the car down for a year or longer. During the winter I pulled out the Torquer V3 cam we had in the car for ~60k miles and put it in my brothers C5Z. It made 413 on the rollers with some general tuning. I always seem to be more concerned with getting the most power out of friend’s cars then my own.
While I started taking the cam out I made an oops of dropping a lifter from having to small of a dowel in the hole. So off came the 243 heads and swapped them to my buddy for his 317 heads off his LQ4 he just rebuilt. This being the second time I have pulled the heads off while in the car the studs made life a lot easier for getting everything in. I would HIGHLY suggest if you ever have your heads off and have been using bolts, for the price of the Procomps it would be worth replacing the bolts with studs just to make life easier down the road.
I of course had help from this guy.
Shot before the tear down with my buddies V and bother’s Z.
Shortly after having the car back together I started ordering turbo goodies. Jon at Huron Speed was a big help with helping me pick out the turbo and providing other components. I initially planned on going with the Huron AC kit, because my wife’s biggest rule was she wanted her AC, but he was working on revising the Non-AC kit and planned to work the AC one later in the year. With funds burning a hole in my pocket I discovered the On3 A/C kit. Only problem was they built it around a BMR kmember and they weren’t sure if it would work with the PA Racing kmember. I took the gamble and ordered the kit up anyway figuring if I had to I could sell the PA and snag a BMR.
Off with the old goodies, they went to my wife’s brother for his 01 Camaro SS he just picked up. Lucky kid has spent a whopping $107 to put down 349 at the wheels
Turbonetics 7575 from Jon at Huron Speed.
A week later three boxes showed up on my door step totaling 140 pounds. I immediately go the car up in the air and started with putting things together.
I got the Kmember swapped out relatively easily and while it was out I took the pan off to put a hole in for the oil drain. After the K member was on I pulled the alternator and did the relocation to the top of the head in the normal fashion with the supplied On3 relocation kit. The manifolds went in easier then I had expected and the rest of the pipe followed after.
DP fitment through PA Racing Kmember
About this time another package showed up, my daughter.
Work on the car was on a brief hiatus for about two weeks and I slowly resumed finishing it up in the afternoons. The biggest hold up I had was what sort of fans to use. The Derale’s had been on back order with an unknown delivery date so I started looking to alternatives. A buddy of mine used some cheapo fans from one of the local performance shops on his Porcharged GTO and it worked pretty well, until it melted for some reason or another so I took another gamble and grabbed a pair. I did some quick testing through the condenser and it had a decent breeze going through there I thought they would be fine and went on with putting it all together.
Ignore the cut through the core support, I had to get a new core support I took from my buddies old WS6 that he had boosted at one point and stood up the radiator. With the bracket I made everything holds the factory geometry and radiator/condenser sits in the stock location.
At this time I had the car all back together and was eager to drive it. I drove it around the block a few times and it slowly started to overheat after a short while. Got home and popped the hood and could feel the heat radiating from the hood before I even opened it. At this point I started kicking myself thinking I should have just wrapped the hot pipes while they were off. When I jacked the car up I noticed I didn’t have the dipstick completely in and I was leaving a nice little puddle every time I would get into boost around the starter.
Turbonetics 7575 Billet Turbo
317 Heads
Ls1 Tick stage 2 cam
160k stock bottom end LS1, stock Trans and stock 10 bolt rear end
LS9 MLS Head Gasket
Procomp head studs
On3 A/C Kit with 4” IC
PA Racing K-member
80# Injectors
Total project cost - $5,130
Been planning to boost my wife’s TA for a while now and slowly scrounged up the funds over the past year to make it happen. This is my first ever turbo vehicle and tons of research was done before hand to make sure I didn’t end up against a wall with the car down for a year or longer. During the winter I pulled out the Torquer V3 cam we had in the car for ~60k miles and put it in my brothers C5Z. It made 413 on the rollers with some general tuning. I always seem to be more concerned with getting the most power out of friend’s cars then my own.
While I started taking the cam out I made an oops of dropping a lifter from having to small of a dowel in the hole. So off came the 243 heads and swapped them to my buddy for his 317 heads off his LQ4 he just rebuilt. This being the second time I have pulled the heads off while in the car the studs made life a lot easier for getting everything in. I would HIGHLY suggest if you ever have your heads off and have been using bolts, for the price of the Procomps it would be worth replacing the bolts with studs just to make life easier down the road.
I of course had help from this guy.
Shot before the tear down with my buddies V and bother’s Z.
Shortly after having the car back together I started ordering turbo goodies. Jon at Huron Speed was a big help with helping me pick out the turbo and providing other components. I initially planned on going with the Huron AC kit, because my wife’s biggest rule was she wanted her AC, but he was working on revising the Non-AC kit and planned to work the AC one later in the year. With funds burning a hole in my pocket I discovered the On3 A/C kit. Only problem was they built it around a BMR kmember and they weren’t sure if it would work with the PA Racing kmember. I took the gamble and ordered the kit up anyway figuring if I had to I could sell the PA and snag a BMR.
Off with the old goodies, they went to my wife’s brother for his 01 Camaro SS he just picked up. Lucky kid has spent a whopping $107 to put down 349 at the wheels
Turbonetics 7575 from Jon at Huron Speed.
A week later three boxes showed up on my door step totaling 140 pounds. I immediately go the car up in the air and started with putting things together.
I got the Kmember swapped out relatively easily and while it was out I took the pan off to put a hole in for the oil drain. After the K member was on I pulled the alternator and did the relocation to the top of the head in the normal fashion with the supplied On3 relocation kit. The manifolds went in easier then I had expected and the rest of the pipe followed after.
DP fitment through PA Racing Kmember
About this time another package showed up, my daughter.
Work on the car was on a brief hiatus for about two weeks and I slowly resumed finishing it up in the afternoons. The biggest hold up I had was what sort of fans to use. The Derale’s had been on back order with an unknown delivery date so I started looking to alternatives. A buddy of mine used some cheapo fans from one of the local performance shops on his Porcharged GTO and it worked pretty well, until it melted for some reason or another so I took another gamble and grabbed a pair. I did some quick testing through the condenser and it had a decent breeze going through there I thought they would be fine and went on with putting it all together.
Ignore the cut through the core support, I had to get a new core support I took from my buddies old WS6 that he had boosted at one point and stood up the radiator. With the bracket I made everything holds the factory geometry and radiator/condenser sits in the stock location.
At this time I had the car all back together and was eager to drive it. I drove it around the block a few times and it slowly started to overheat after a short while. Got home and popped the hood and could feel the heat radiating from the hood before I even opened it. At this point I started kicking myself thinking I should have just wrapped the hot pipes while they were off. When I jacked the car up I noticed I didn’t have the dipstick completely in and I was leaving a nice little puddle every time I would get into boost around the starter.
Last edited by Rawr256; 03-13-2016 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Update title
09-13-2014, 06:09 PM
#2
At this time I had the car all back together and was eager to drive it. I drove it around the block a few times and it slowly started to overheat after a short while. Got home and popped the hood and could feel the heat radiating from the hood before I even opened it. At this point I started kicking myself thinking I should have just wrapped the hot pipes while they were off. When I jacked the car up I noticed I didn’t have the dipstick completely in and I was leaving a nice little puddle every time I would get into boost around the starter.
Whole assembly dropped out easier ten I had thought. This also gave me a chance to put the sway bar back on I had forgot to stick back on after putting in the Kmember.
A week or so later I got the pipes all wrapped and everything back together. My helper was there to help me stick it back in.
It being my wife’s car and her not riding in it yet since the turbo I had her go out to take it for its first drive with the wrap. She got in, went to start the car and it instantly lurched forward and died. I promptly started laughing and told her, “it has a clutch remember? Keep it in.” She promptly responded with, “the damn car wouldn’t have started if I didn’t push it in dummy…” She tried two more times, pumping the pedal in between and no change. I then got underneath it and decided somehow I must have gotten air in the system and went through a bottle of bleeding with no change. Up went the car and out came the transmission.
I pulled it out and thought the slave must not have liked something with the turbo and it usually being the problem child in the system with a Tick MC I changed the slave with no change in the driving habits. At this point I jumped online, made a post in the manual section and Steve at SNL/Monster suggested I remove the clutch assembly and check it out. Against my better judgment, and his knowledgebase, I decided to just drop the transmission and start measuring to see if for some reason I needed a shim. In a single weekend I think I dropped the transmission three times, checking spacing, adding a speed bleeder, swapping slaves, before I kind of gave up on it trying to think of what was wrong. After a week break from the car, I finally did as Steve suggested and started pulling out the clutch assembly. As I was underneath I started pulling the parts and handing them off to my dad. I pulled off the pressure plate with the clutch and handed it to him. As I was starting on the flywheel my dad asks, “soooo.. is this some sort of special clutch that locks to the pressure plate and supposed to be like that? Because I can’t split it apart…” I crawled out from under the car and took a look at it and the clutch disc wouldn’t separate from the pressure plate. I ended up having to lean the pressure plate at an angle and through the fingers with a screwdriver and hammer punch the clutch out to separate it. As it finally separated it made a sound like a piece of duct tape being pulled off something it had been stuck to forever. Just after less than 5 miles of driving, my Monster stage 2 clutch managed to fuse itself to the pressure plate.
At this point I was kind of blown away that had happened. Talking to my father-in-law who has worked on his fair share of hot rods and general maintenance cars he had never seen that before. Best I could figure it must have been struggling to hold on with the new found power and got hot and melted. I did some more research and ordered up a McLeod RXT, ultimately because it would meet my end power goal and my budget was running thin.
After it showed up I went to put it on that weekend with my wife getting everything up top and me doing everything down below. After we had it all back together we went on to the bleeding. After it felt adequate I went to go and start it and found we were at the same spot as before, clutch pedal down and no disengagement. I went to bed that night scratching my head at what could be wrong. Next morning I went through it all in my head thinking I must need a shim for some reason. Then I remember my wife saying that the pedal felt funny. Before jacking the car up again I went to check out what was going on with the pedal and it wouldn’t spring back up to the top home position.
I crawled underneath the dash and looked and come to find out, when I pulled the Tick MC out for the stock master, I never hooked the rod up to the pedal. I hooked it up got in, pushed the pedal in while holding my breath, turned the key and the car came to life. I drove it around as best as I could while trying to stay responsible with the new clutch and the break in and only touching a little bit of boost. In doing this in the evening after about 30 min I checked the engine temperature and it was steadily climbing from 210. I got out and checked the air on the other side of my radiator and my cheapo fans were blowing equivalent to what my year and half old son could do in my face. At this point I finally went online and checked out the Derales and saw they were back in stock.
I found a set on Amazon and wanted them before the weekend so I could get the car all back together but being at the last bit of my disposable funds for the car didn’t want to pay for NDA shipping if I needed to. Being only 250 miles from Seattle and getting some Amazon stuff within a day, I called their CS and spoke to someone and asked if they knew where the fans were stocked because I didn’t want to pay for NDA shipping if they were going to be there the next day from Seattle anyway. They couldn’t tell me for sure where they were coming from, so they picked up the bill for the shipping as a courtesy because of now much my wife orders from them.
On the fans went over Labor Day weekend and my overheating issues were solved. Sitting at an idle on a 90* day the fans maintained the temperature without an issue. I haven’t had the AC system charged yet so I can’t say what the temperature will get to with it on but going down the road the car holds a steady 170 – 175 with the fans kicking on and off keeping it cool so I have a good amount of faith I should have no problems down the road.
My last and final issue had snuck up on me though. I downloaded an upgraded 3 bar OS from HPT onto the car but with a 2.5 DPE map sensor I got from a buddy it would never start consistently, but if the stock one was thrown in it had no problems. Through constant tweaking I was able to get the DPE to work, figuring something was wrong with my tune. I got brave and took the car to work this last week and on the worse possible spot in the trip, the car died. I was able to get it started again and moving down the road while rolling and went a few more miles, and it died again. I turned around and it died 5 more times on me. At this point I checked out my scans. My KPA would be reading steadily, then would suddenly drop to 8 kpa. I realized at this point something must be wrong with the sensor. I haven’t looked into it much but best I could figure, something small must have gotten stuck in the sensor hole while it was bounced around in my buddy’s drawer.
I threw in the stock Map sensor, recalibrated my setting and took the car home. Called around and luckily one of the dealers almost an hour and half from home had a Cobalt 2 bar sensor. Picked that up, put it in and fired up without an issue. To date, I have been driving the car issue free all week. My first tank of gas I got 13.4 mpg, boost is fun! Second tank is looking a bit better but still nowhere near the consistent 19-21 mpg I would get with just the cam in the car on my daily commute. The clutch is feeling great and the car is feeling awesome with the new power. Last night I screwed around with one of my buddies in his G8 Firehawk and still being soft on the clutch on takeoff, he shot off the line but the second I got to the top of first I started reeling him in, second gear I was really starting to move in on him, third gear I blew past him like he was sitting still. We haven’t dynoed his car yet after some tuning tweaks, but the previous owner dynoed it right around 475 whp. Buddy with is 11’ V drove the car and said hands down it would destroy his V that we dynoed at 530 whp and would probably walk his old mild cammed C6Z.
In the next week or so after some more road tuning I plan to take it over to my buddies shop and get a good number on the car. Right now with the spring On3 sends with their wastegate it is holding about 5 psi in the system and sometimes spiking just under 6 pounds. All and all, I love it and it feels good to finally have the car in a state that is drivable.
Whole assembly dropped out easier ten I had thought. This also gave me a chance to put the sway bar back on I had forgot to stick back on after putting in the Kmember.
A week or so later I got the pipes all wrapped and everything back together. My helper was there to help me stick it back in.
It being my wife’s car and her not riding in it yet since the turbo I had her go out to take it for its first drive with the wrap. She got in, went to start the car and it instantly lurched forward and died. I promptly started laughing and told her, “it has a clutch remember? Keep it in.” She promptly responded with, “the damn car wouldn’t have started if I didn’t push it in dummy…” She tried two more times, pumping the pedal in between and no change. I then got underneath it and decided somehow I must have gotten air in the system and went through a bottle of bleeding with no change. Up went the car and out came the transmission.
I pulled it out and thought the slave must not have liked something with the turbo and it usually being the problem child in the system with a Tick MC I changed the slave with no change in the driving habits. At this point I jumped online, made a post in the manual section and Steve at SNL/Monster suggested I remove the clutch assembly and check it out. Against my better judgment, and his knowledgebase, I decided to just drop the transmission and start measuring to see if for some reason I needed a shim. In a single weekend I think I dropped the transmission three times, checking spacing, adding a speed bleeder, swapping slaves, before I kind of gave up on it trying to think of what was wrong. After a week break from the car, I finally did as Steve suggested and started pulling out the clutch assembly. As I was underneath I started pulling the parts and handing them off to my dad. I pulled off the pressure plate with the clutch and handed it to him. As I was starting on the flywheel my dad asks, “soooo.. is this some sort of special clutch that locks to the pressure plate and supposed to be like that? Because I can’t split it apart…” I crawled out from under the car and took a look at it and the clutch disc wouldn’t separate from the pressure plate. I ended up having to lean the pressure plate at an angle and through the fingers with a screwdriver and hammer punch the clutch out to separate it. As it finally separated it made a sound like a piece of duct tape being pulled off something it had been stuck to forever. Just after less than 5 miles of driving, my Monster stage 2 clutch managed to fuse itself to the pressure plate.
At this point I was kind of blown away that had happened. Talking to my father-in-law who has worked on his fair share of hot rods and general maintenance cars he had never seen that before. Best I could figure it must have been struggling to hold on with the new found power and got hot and melted. I did some more research and ordered up a McLeod RXT, ultimately because it would meet my end power goal and my budget was running thin.
After it showed up I went to put it on that weekend with my wife getting everything up top and me doing everything down below. After we had it all back together we went on to the bleeding. After it felt adequate I went to go and start it and found we were at the same spot as before, clutch pedal down and no disengagement. I went to bed that night scratching my head at what could be wrong. Next morning I went through it all in my head thinking I must need a shim for some reason. Then I remember my wife saying that the pedal felt funny. Before jacking the car up again I went to check out what was going on with the pedal and it wouldn’t spring back up to the top home position.
I crawled underneath the dash and looked and come to find out, when I pulled the Tick MC out for the stock master, I never hooked the rod up to the pedal. I hooked it up got in, pushed the pedal in while holding my breath, turned the key and the car came to life. I drove it around as best as I could while trying to stay responsible with the new clutch and the break in and only touching a little bit of boost. In doing this in the evening after about 30 min I checked the engine temperature and it was steadily climbing from 210. I got out and checked the air on the other side of my radiator and my cheapo fans were blowing equivalent to what my year and half old son could do in my face. At this point I finally went online and checked out the Derales and saw they were back in stock.
I found a set on Amazon and wanted them before the weekend so I could get the car all back together but being at the last bit of my disposable funds for the car didn’t want to pay for NDA shipping if I needed to. Being only 250 miles from Seattle and getting some Amazon stuff within a day, I called their CS and spoke to someone and asked if they knew where the fans were stocked because I didn’t want to pay for NDA shipping if they were going to be there the next day from Seattle anyway. They couldn’t tell me for sure where they were coming from, so they picked up the bill for the shipping as a courtesy because of now much my wife orders from them.
On the fans went over Labor Day weekend and my overheating issues were solved. Sitting at an idle on a 90* day the fans maintained the temperature without an issue. I haven’t had the AC system charged yet so I can’t say what the temperature will get to with it on but going down the road the car holds a steady 170 – 175 with the fans kicking on and off keeping it cool so I have a good amount of faith I should have no problems down the road.
My last and final issue had snuck up on me though. I downloaded an upgraded 3 bar OS from HPT onto the car but with a 2.5 DPE map sensor I got from a buddy it would never start consistently, but if the stock one was thrown in it had no problems. Through constant tweaking I was able to get the DPE to work, figuring something was wrong with my tune. I got brave and took the car to work this last week and on the worse possible spot in the trip, the car died. I was able to get it started again and moving down the road while rolling and went a few more miles, and it died again. I turned around and it died 5 more times on me. At this point I checked out my scans. My KPA would be reading steadily, then would suddenly drop to 8 kpa. I realized at this point something must be wrong with the sensor. I haven’t looked into it much but best I could figure, something small must have gotten stuck in the sensor hole while it was bounced around in my buddy’s drawer.
I threw in the stock Map sensor, recalibrated my setting and took the car home. Called around and luckily one of the dealers almost an hour and half from home had a Cobalt 2 bar sensor. Picked that up, put it in and fired up without an issue. To date, I have been driving the car issue free all week. My first tank of gas I got 13.4 mpg, boost is fun! Second tank is looking a bit better but still nowhere near the consistent 19-21 mpg I would get with just the cam in the car on my daily commute. The clutch is feeling great and the car is feeling awesome with the new power. Last night I screwed around with one of my buddies in his G8 Firehawk and still being soft on the clutch on takeoff, he shot off the line but the second I got to the top of first I started reeling him in, second gear I was really starting to move in on him, third gear I blew past him like he was sitting still. We haven’t dynoed his car yet after some tuning tweaks, but the previous owner dynoed it right around 475 whp. Buddy with is 11’ V drove the car and said hands down it would destroy his V that we dynoed at 530 whp and would probably walk his old mild cammed C6Z.
In the next week or so after some more road tuning I plan to take it over to my buddies shop and get a good number on the car. Right now with the spring On3 sends with their wastegate it is holding about 5 psi in the system and sometimes spiking just under 6 pounds. All and all, I love it and it feels good to finally have the car in a state that is drivable.
09-13-2014, 06:09 PM
#3
My thoughts after the whole thing –
There were a few times that I really thought of cutting my losses, selling what I could and getting a D1 Procharger kit for the car. My wife said to just stick with it because never having my own turbo car and loving the thrill of the boost ramp in when tuning a LS1 sand rail at my buddies shop just stick with it. In the end I am glad that I did. If I could do it all over again I would probably do it again, just not try to cheap out on things like fans, or skipping the header wrap and things like that. In the end, as usual it just caused more headache in the long run. The PA racing was kind of the first issue honestly, but being able to make something that easily fits everything I understand can be hard. My only gripe with it is it required shorter bolts to mount it to the body.
The On3 kit was great and my only complaint with it is the lack of a wideband bung and the charge pipe by the relays works for a Camaro just fine, but is a tight fit for a Firebird because of the lights. Again while I understand that it’s hard to build something that works for everything on vehicles like the Fbody’s where they see all sorts of abuse, I’m sure one could have been thrown in somewhere in the downpipe.
Other than those few things, I would do it all over again, except like mentioned, avoid cheaping out or overlooking simple things like the exhaust wrap and fans. I think when it comes time to give my G8 some boost love, I will probably go the easy route and just go with a Procharger. Down the road I plan to get another Auto Fbody and drop the AC and go nuts with that.
Thanks to –
Nitroused383 – Local buddy with a turbo build that was part of my inspiration and had lots of tips
2002BLKTA – Another buddy who did a turbo on his old WS6 and had lots of input
Chad at Exhaust Solutions http://exhaustsolutions.org/ - Buddy with his shop who has tutored me on some cool builds and gave me the experience with the TT LS Saindrail. Always willing to help out when needed.
Jon at Huron Speed – Spent a good 30 minutes on the phone with him before ordering stuff and was very helpful and knowledgeable. If it weren’t for some killer prices, car might still be sitting in the garage waiting on parts.
On3 Performance – Great kit and awesome quality. I couldn’t be happier with any of it, look forward to any goodies that come about later. My brother is eyeing a C5 kit if one is ever made.
And of course, my wife – Putting up with my frustration and telling me to keep going, it was her car after all I guess and she wanted to drive it again!
All and all should make for a fun cruiser, any questions let me know.
There were a few times that I really thought of cutting my losses, selling what I could and getting a D1 Procharger kit for the car. My wife said to just stick with it because never having my own turbo car and loving the thrill of the boost ramp in when tuning a LS1 sand rail at my buddies shop just stick with it. In the end I am glad that I did. If I could do it all over again I would probably do it again, just not try to cheap out on things like fans, or skipping the header wrap and things like that. In the end, as usual it just caused more headache in the long run. The PA racing was kind of the first issue honestly, but being able to make something that easily fits everything I understand can be hard. My only gripe with it is it required shorter bolts to mount it to the body.
The On3 kit was great and my only complaint with it is the lack of a wideband bung and the charge pipe by the relays works for a Camaro just fine, but is a tight fit for a Firebird because of the lights. Again while I understand that it’s hard to build something that works for everything on vehicles like the Fbody’s where they see all sorts of abuse, I’m sure one could have been thrown in somewhere in the downpipe.
Other than those few things, I would do it all over again, except like mentioned, avoid cheaping out or overlooking simple things like the exhaust wrap and fans. I think when it comes time to give my G8 some boost love, I will probably go the easy route and just go with a Procharger. Down the road I plan to get another Auto Fbody and drop the AC and go nuts with that.
Thanks to –
Nitroused383 – Local buddy with a turbo build that was part of my inspiration and had lots of tips
2002BLKTA – Another buddy who did a turbo on his old WS6 and had lots of input
Chad at Exhaust Solutions http://exhaustsolutions.org/ - Buddy with his shop who has tutored me on some cool builds and gave me the experience with the TT LS Saindrail. Always willing to help out when needed.
Jon at Huron Speed – Spent a good 30 minutes on the phone with him before ordering stuff and was very helpful and knowledgeable. If it weren’t for some killer prices, car might still be sitting in the garage waiting on parts.
On3 Performance – Great kit and awesome quality. I couldn’t be happier with any of it, look forward to any goodies that come about later. My brother is eyeing a C5 kit if one is ever made.
And of course, my wife – Putting up with my frustration and telling me to keep going, it was her car after all I guess and she wanted to drive it again!
All and all should make for a fun cruiser, any questions let me know.
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09-26-2014, 01:10 PM
#10
First of all those are some damn cute kids!
Jason (Nitroused383) is a good friend of mine, I used to come up to Spokane and let him beat up on me going down the track in my red 01' z/28. I was spraying a 150 shot and he was still walking on me all the way down the track with his high mile LS-1 with a 76mm Turbo.
That is when I decided to go LS motor with a turbo on my Chevelle once I finally got done with painting it (see link below)
My name is Zach btw..
Your buddy Chad tuned this Chevelle 5 years ago when it was still in primmer with a 400 sbc... HE is a damn good guy.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...6-0-l-lq4.html
Jason (Nitroused383) is a good friend of mine, I used to come up to Spokane and let him beat up on me going down the track in my red 01' z/28. I was spraying a 150 shot and he was still walking on me all the way down the track with his high mile LS-1 with a 76mm Turbo.
That is when I decided to go LS motor with a turbo on my Chevelle once I finally got done with painting it (see link below)
My name is Zach btw..
Your buddy Chad tuned this Chevelle 5 years ago when it was still in primmer with a 400 sbc... HE is a damn good guy.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...6-0-l-lq4.html
09-26-2014, 03:38 PM
#12
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I currently have my 01 Camaro SS in pieces in the garage. Waiting for the engine to get back from the builder. After reading this I cannot wait. I have just about everything I need minus the header wrap. After reading through your thread I can say for sure that I will be doing the header wrap first instead of likelytaking it all apart down the road. Got me all excited now! I can't wait.
09-26-2014, 06:39 PM
#13
The wrap actually looks pretty nice if you get the titanium stuff. Pay a little more and probably not much gain to it but does look pretty bling bling and matches the turbo blanket.
Zach I remember you and the Camaro. Last I talked to Jason there was a transplant taking place and some boost going in with it.
Thanks all for the kudos. Son loves the car, every time it starts getting into boost he starts getting excited and the cut out open puts my daughter to sleep, who says Fbody's aren't family cars?
10-16-2014, 09:24 PM
#15
Just a little update, had a chance to go do some dyno tuning with the car at my buddies shop.
First pull it blew the tires off so we deflated them and went from there.
First pull I made was a little disappointing at first, it only put down 534 and I was thinking, no way this only feels like a low 500 whp car on the street. I then thought about the cutout, opened it and no other changes I picked up 65rwhp. Buddy asked how much timing I upped it and told him none, 13* timing at 8 pounds.
After that I added two degrees of timing running it at 15* across the board and broke my 600 rwhp goal.
After that I went to go turn up my manual boost controller and added two pounds and find that the car didn't like it for some reason. Mid pulls it would just make a loud pop/backfire kind of sound but I saw nothing on my scans indicating what it was. My best guess is I was getting spark blowout since the AFR was dialed right in where I want it. I didn't mess around with it much because I had other stuff to do later in the day so I just set it back and went on my way.
The other thing I was wondering is if I am at the limits of my fuel system. I do have the 80# injectors but only running a single Walbro 255. On one of the pulls I noticed my Injector duty hit 75% near the peak power which seemed a little crazy because I expect the 80's to handle a lot more.
Either way I am happy with where the car is at, especially for only 8 pounds with 15* of timing. I will say I am loving the car, first gear has become almost useless. One thing that does blow me away is the Air to Air IC from On3 really does the job. Doing back to back pulls I was constantly hanging around 80* on pulls and ambient temperature when I looked was 72. If I were to add meth to it, I wonder how far I could drop it.
I pulled up some of my other runs with the car from the beginning of when we got it for my wife to where it is now just as a fun comparo.
From bottom to top, bone stock to the filter, second is cam only (I know there was one pull of 413 but couldn't find it), the turbo with cutout closed and then with it open. It has gotten more then double the power since it first hit the rollers.
Hopefully during the winter I should be able to upgrade the fuel system and maybe throw on an alky setup and really turn it up. End goal is 700rwhp, but we all know how easily those goals shift.
Buddy at the shop keeps telling me, "don't be afraid to blow the thing up, not like we have a shortage of motors to throw in it."
First pull it blew the tires off so we deflated them and went from there.
First pull I made was a little disappointing at first, it only put down 534 and I was thinking, no way this only feels like a low 500 whp car on the street. I then thought about the cutout, opened it and no other changes I picked up 65rwhp. Buddy asked how much timing I upped it and told him none, 13* timing at 8 pounds.
After that I added two degrees of timing running it at 15* across the board and broke my 600 rwhp goal.
After that I went to go turn up my manual boost controller and added two pounds and find that the car didn't like it for some reason. Mid pulls it would just make a loud pop/backfire kind of sound but I saw nothing on my scans indicating what it was. My best guess is I was getting spark blowout since the AFR was dialed right in where I want it. I didn't mess around with it much because I had other stuff to do later in the day so I just set it back and went on my way.
The other thing I was wondering is if I am at the limits of my fuel system. I do have the 80# injectors but only running a single Walbro 255. On one of the pulls I noticed my Injector duty hit 75% near the peak power which seemed a little crazy because I expect the 80's to handle a lot more.
Either way I am happy with where the car is at, especially for only 8 pounds with 15* of timing. I will say I am loving the car, first gear has become almost useless. One thing that does blow me away is the Air to Air IC from On3 really does the job. Doing back to back pulls I was constantly hanging around 80* on pulls and ambient temperature when I looked was 72. If I were to add meth to it, I wonder how far I could drop it.
I pulled up some of my other runs with the car from the beginning of when we got it for my wife to where it is now just as a fun comparo.
From bottom to top, bone stock to the filter, second is cam only (I know there was one pull of 413 but couldn't find it), the turbo with cutout closed and then with it open. It has gotten more then double the power since it first hit the rollers.
Hopefully during the winter I should be able to upgrade the fuel system and maybe throw on an alky setup and really turn it up. End goal is 700rwhp, but we all know how easily those goals shift.
Buddy at the shop keeps telling me, "don't be afraid to blow the thing up, not like we have a shortage of motors to throw in it."
10-16-2014, 09:55 PM
#16
That is a cool setup you got. I want to do a somewhat budget FI setup and still undecided if I should go turbo or supercharger.
So did you get the piping kit from On3 and the turbo/accessories from Huron? Are the 317 heads stock? How did you setup the oil feed/return lines?
I have a 130k mile ls1 but with a LS6 cam which I'll keep. Also won't need A/C so I can save a few bucks not getting a k-member.
I'm sure with some meth and double pumps, you should see your 700 mark. But like you said, our goals always change lol. Keep up the good work!
So did you get the piping kit from On3 and the turbo/accessories from Huron? Are the 317 heads stock? How did you setup the oil feed/return lines?
I have a 130k mile ls1 but with a LS6 cam which I'll keep. Also won't need A/C so I can save a few bucks not getting a k-member.
I'm sure with some meth and double pumps, you should see your 700 mark. But like you said, our goals always change lol. Keep up the good work!
10-16-2014, 11:31 PM
#17
That is a cool setup you got. I want to do a somewhat budget FI setup and still undecided if I should go turbo or supercharger.
So did you get the piping kit from On3 and the turbo/accessories from Huron? Are the 317 heads stock? How did you setup the oil feed/return lines?
I have a 130k mile ls1 but with a LS6 cam which I'll keep. Also won't need A/C so I can save a few bucks not getting a k-member.
I'm sure with some meth and double pumps, you should see your 700 mark. But like you said, our goals always change lol. Keep up the good work!
So did you get the piping kit from On3 and the turbo/accessories from Huron? Are the 317 heads stock? How did you setup the oil feed/return lines?
I have a 130k mile ls1 but with a LS6 cam which I'll keep. Also won't need A/C so I can save a few bucks not getting a k-member.
I'm sure with some meth and double pumps, you should see your 700 mark. But like you said, our goals always change lol. Keep up the good work!
So I snagged the On3 A/C Kit and have been happy with it.317's are untouched other then valve springs of course.
Oil feed comes from the traditional filtered source about the oil filter. Drain line goes right above the plug for the pan. I measured it 4 times with water when the pan was out before I finally drilled the pan just to make sure I wouldn't have to do it again.
Down the road I plan to pick up a vert and throw on a A/C delete kit. It could be done really for close to half the price of what I got in mine but this one being the cruise with the family A/C was kind of a requirement.
12-18-2014, 08:00 AM
#19
I didn't try without the tubular but see why it would be needed. You need to have the skinnier arms for the DP on the motor mounts and also the space for the pipe coming from the passenger side. You could probably do a spohn tubular arm for the motor mount and maybe get by that way but don't see a way around the A/C side without notching the Kmember like crazy.
I looked at it as I am throwing this heavy snail in the engine bay, so shedding a few pounds would help.
I looked at it as I am throwing this heavy snail in the engine bay, so shedding a few pounds would help.
12-18-2014, 11:49 AM
#20
Thank you for the detailed thread OP. So much has been said about the On3 kit, both good and bad, so it's nice to have your detailed write-up/experience with the said kit. For what it is, and the price, it's damn hard to beat. I'm still playing around with the idea of going FI, so this seems to be a very viable, budget friendly, option. I know you're right above 600 rwhp as it stands now, but do you think the On3 kit will support 700 rwhp+? Also, what other, larger, turbos are compatible with the On3 kit?